How to prepare
Hiking is a sport that's free, easy and open to all, but there are a few basic rules to follow if you want to enjoy it safely. The first, of course, is to keep abreast of the weather and current temperatures, so that you can plan ahead with the right equipment. The weather on Reunion Island changes very rapidly throughout the day, especially during the cyclonic period (November to April) when rainfall can be intense. Weather forecasts are not always very reliable, but they do provide vital information on possible storms, floods and cyclones. On the whole, it's best to get up early, especially during the summer season, to get to the viewpoint before the thick fog that often envelops the Hauts in the afternoon. Among the essential items to have in your rucksack for any hike are the indispensable K-way, sun cream, water (ideally 2 l per person) and a headlamp. Don't forget to leave a dry change of clothes and a second pair of shoes in the car for the return trip. For multi-day hikes, you'll need to make reservations for gîtes and meals, as they are often fully booked, especially at weekends and during school vacations. You can also use experienced guides such as Otenthike, Ayapana or Run'Surv.
Which path to choose
When choosing which hike to take, remember to check trail conditions on the ONF website, which provides information on trails and forest roads closed by prefectoral decree. Numerous websites and books list the many trails on the island. Please note that the walking times indicated are those of an average walker and do not include breaks. Always add at least 1 hour to your estimate, more if you like taking photos, birdwatching or picnicking on the spot. One of the basic rules of hiking is never to set off alone - accidents can happen. However, if you do have an accident, let those around you know your itinerary and timing, and take along your cell phone (100% charged). The whole island is covered by the SFR and Orange networks, except for the volcano area, which is not always reliable. You can also join a group via social networks, or opt for a guided hike, for a more in-depth look at the island's unique flora and fauna.
The three GRs
There are three long-distance hiking trails on Réunion Island. Inaugurated in 1979, the GR R1 forms a loop of around 60 km, encircling the Piton des Neiges and crossing the three cirques: Salazie, Cilaos and Mafate. While this itinerary is best suited to experienced hikers, average walkers can still go at their own pace, dividing the route into six relatively short stages (from 2 to 6 hours' walking per stage). Much longer and more difficult, the R2 crosses the island with a total vertical drop of almost 8,000 m. This is the route taken by the famous Diagonale des fous race. Count on around 150 km of walking, spread over twelve stages in the heart of Reunion's natural environment. The latest addition to Réunion's hiking scene, the GR R3, created in 2005, covers 47.5 km around Mafate, the island's driest and least accessible cirque. Unquestionably our favorite... For each of these trails, there are gîtes where you can recharge your batteries between stages, sleep in the warmth and enjoy the conviviality of a good mountain curry.
The most aerial views
Reunion offers spectacular, almost aerial views of the ocean, the heart of the island or other peaks. Often reached after a long hike, the effort is amply rewarded by the beauty of the spectacle, the must being to get there at sunrise or sunset to see the sky streak with orange and pink. Top of the top three is the Piton des Neiges, the island's highest peak and its first volcano, well before La Fournaise. Over 1,700 m of ascent and 16 km round trip from Cilaos. The hike takes 8h without a break and is best done over two days, with a stopover at the Caverne Dufour refuge at 2,478 m altitude. Warning: this hike is only possible with a headlamp and warm clothing, as it's freezing cold up there before the sun rises! The site is also accessible from Bourg-Murat or Bélouve. In second place is the Grand Bénare, which rises to an altitude of 2,898 m. The hike is long (7h round trip) and rocky, but the slope is gentle all the way, making access to the summit much more accessible than the piton. The trail starts at the Maïdo parking lot and follows the ridge of the cirque de Mafate for miles, offering breathtaking panoramas. To the left, the chaotic cirques, to the right the lagoon, 15 km further on. The trail culminates at the junction of the Mafate and Cilaos cirques, with a breathtaking 360-degree panorama of almost the entire island. The final hike in our top three is the Roche-Écrite. The highest point in the commune of Saint-Denis, the final panorama, at 2,277 m, embraces the two cirques of Salazie and Mafate, with the Piton des Neiges as a backdrop. Quite demanding, the trail is 18 km round trip, taking 6 to 10 hours depending on the starting point. The rando-escalade des 3 Salazes, at an altitude of over 2,000 metres, is also one of the most sought-after itineraries for sports enthusiasts and thrill-seekers.
The most accessible points of view
For those who don't hike, or don't hike much, there's no need to be afraid: there are many less difficult trails that also offer exceptional views. The hike with the best effort-to-view ratio is Roche Verre-Bouteille. From the village of Dos-d'Âne, two trails lead to the Cap Noir orientation table. This is one of the most accessible viewpoints on Mafate. It takes just 20 minutes from the parking lot to fully appreciate the cirque's rugged terrain. Highly recommended! For longer walks, a 1.5-hour loop leads to the cape, but includes a ladder. A viewpoint over Cilaos this time, the Fenêtre des Makes, accessible by car, is located in the heights of Saint-Louis. This magnificent setting offers a panoramic view of the cirque de Cilaos from the îlet à Cordes to the Pavillon. An impressive sight. You can even see the Piton des Neiges and the Grand Bénare. Take a few steps and you'll see part of the wild south coast. From here, the 2.5-hour hike to the Piton Cabri offers some stunning views. Last but not least, the most spectacular viewpoint is just a 5-minute walk away: Le Maïdo. Located at an altitude of 2,200 m, this viewpoint over the Mafate cirque is accessible by car from the west coast. If you're feeling brave, we advise you to get up very early and wait for the sun to rise (1 hour's drive from Saint-Paul, towards Le Guillaume). A magnificent sight.
The most beautiful waterfalls
Reunion expresses its tropical character through the hundreds of waterfalls it proudly boasts all along its cliffs. Most are visible from the road, such as Anse des Cascades in the south, Voile de la Mariée in Salazie and Cascade du Niagara in the northeast, but some require a little effort to reveal themselves. The most famous is the Trou de Fer, a vertiginous 700 m waterfall set in the hollow of an impressive canyon. To admire this viewpoint, you need to set off either from the Bélouve gîte for an easy, family-friendly walk (8 km trail, 3-hour hike) that winds through a sumptuous tropical forest, or from Hellbourg, with an additional 3-hour hike. Here, as elsewhere, it's best to set off early to reach the viewpoint before the clouds, and bring a good K-way as the area is damp. We should also mention the beautiful Grand Bassin waterfall. This is one of our favorite hikes. It starts from the Bois-Court lookout in La Plaine-des-Cafres. 700 m below is the Grand Bassin islet. An obstacle-free but steep walk (670 m difference in altitude). It takes 1h30 to reach the pretty, flower-filled village. Cross it to reach the basin, where the water is cool and the setting sumptuous. A number of gîtes await you down below for meals or accommodation. A more accessible option is the "bassin la paix - bassin la mer" hike from Saint-Benoît. Accessible in 15 minutes for the first (beware of slippery rocks) and 1 hour for the second, these two basins are fed by the impetuous Rivière des Roches, whose whirlpools create sumptuous basalt organs.
The most beautiful family hikes
Réunion offers many more accessible hiking trails, perfect for a family day out. One example is the Grand-Étang loop, starting in Saint-Benoît, which takes just 5 km around this water reservoir nestled in imposing green cliffs. A return trip to the two waterfalls is an option for the less chilly. The area is home to many species of fish and birds, but is also popular with tangs, which are easy to spot as they emerge from hibernation. Most communes also offer seaside trails, ideal for whale watching in season, or enjoying the sea air all year round. Examples include the Sainte-Rose coastline, the Pointe du Tremblet, the Anse des Cascades trail and the Etang-Salé chasm. These flat trails offer spectacular views of the steep southern cliffs sculpted by the ferocious waves of the Indian Ocean. Finally, the cirques also offer easy options for beginners or parents with young children, notably the classic Col des Bœufs-la Nouvelle round-trip, which takes just 2 hours to reach the village of Mafate.
The Piton de la Fournaise
Since the 2007 eruption, it has been strictly forbidden to walk around the craters (13 km/5h), but since January 2010 it has been possible to reach the summit of Dolomieu (11 km/5h30). The hike begins with a descent into the Fouqué enclosure to reach the photogenic Formica-Léo crater, which can be climbed. The walk continues along the ancient lava flows to climb slowly but surely to the summit. We cross the flows of the 2000s on scrapes that give way a little underfoot. The trail is more crumbly, but never dangerous. Three hours after starting the hike, you're at 2,632 m. A white line marks the limit you must not cross in the face of the void. In strong winds and fog, and even more so at night, extreme caution is advised when facing the 300 m of the Dolomieu crater.
