An enigmatic species
Discovered as early as the 16th century in Mexico by explorers, vanilla was used by the Aztecs to flavor hot cocoa-based beverages. Immediately seduced by the aromas of this orchid, Europeans brought it back to the continent to study it. Evolving in a hot, humid climate, it acclimatized in greenhouses but, to everyone's surprise, remained sterile. In 1819, the first ship brought plants to Bourbon Island, soon to be joined by others. Unfortunately, while the plant proliferated wonderfully in the island's climate, only one flower in a hundred turned into a pod. A mystery. The reason is simple: in Mexico, it's a bee that fertilizes the flower by bringing the male and female reproductive organs into contact as it forages, enabling it to produce a fruit. But bees are not found in Europe or on Bourbon Island, and no other insect on the island is willing to do the same job. Vanilla therefore remained a headache for botanists for many years, until in 1841, a twelve-year-old slave named Edmond Albius succeeded in fertilizing the plant by hand. Using his gesture, repeated on each flower, planters in the east of the island were able to obtain beautiful pods and begin cultivating vanilla.
A long process
Grown in warm, shady areas, vanilla is a liana that grows tall, usually in undergrowth. The vine takes around three years to mature and produce flowers. For three months, the flowers open at dusk and wilt at dawn. Planters must then fertilize them one by one before they close. Since 1841, this has always been done by hand, using a small spade to bring the two reproductive organs into contact. The pod appears and develops for around nine months. Harvested green, when it reaches a certain size and hue, the pod is also picked by hand. Then comes the mortification process, which involves immersing the pods for a few minutes in water at 65 degrees Celsius. The pod is then steamed for one to three days in a trunk lined with a woollen blanket. This is when they take on their chocolate color. For a few weeks, the pods are regularly removed from the trunk and dried in the sun, then in the shade, to prevent the formation of mold. They are then sorted by size and placed in watertight wooden crates, where they remain for eight months. This is the refining stage, during which the aroma is truly refined. At the end of this final phase, the pods are sorted one last time to assess their quality, suppleness, moisture content and grading. It therefore takes almost a year from the moment the pod is picked to the moment the vanilla can be sold. It's a time-consuming process, carried out entirely by hand, with no automation.
The Golden Age of Black Gold
Described as "black gold", vanilla made the fortunes of Réunion's east coast for half a century: by 1857, the island was producing 1 tonne of vanilla a year, making it the world's leading producer. Vanilla had two major advantages at the time: it required very little space and little equipment. As a result, it was no longer the large landowners who had the monopoly, with small and medium-sized growers competing with them. Production rose steadily until it peaked in 1902, with 199 tons of vanilla exported, but fell back to 130 tons by 1920, the same level as twenty years earlier. Since then, production has fallen steadily, in competition with vanilla from Indonesia and Madagascar, the neighboring island where the Réunionese have exported their know-how while benefiting from cheaper labor. By 2023, there will be just 150 growers left on Réunion, spread between the east and south-east of the island, producing around 4 tonnes of black vanilla each year. Most of the world's Bourbon vanilla production still comes from Madagascar (80%), and its price has soared, reaching a record $650 per kilo in early 2018, following cyclone-related crop failures. A new golden age, it seems, which could however threaten the quality of vanilla, which in some places is harvested too early to avoid theft, and whose processing is sometimes shortened to meet growing and pressing demand.
Which vanilla to choose?
On Reunion Island, vanilla can be found on every market, but beware of its quality and origin. As the "Vanille Bourbon" label is international, it does not guarantee that the vanilla has been planted and processed on the island. For this reason, you're better off relying on the "Vanille de La Réunion" label, and paying higher prices. What's more, to be of high quality, a vanilla pod must have retained a certain level of moisture, be still supple and, above all, be stored in glass or vacuum-packed to preserve its aroma. So avoid pods on display in the open air. Finally, the best guarantee of quality is to go directly to the plantations or to the Bras-Panon vanilla cooperative, which brings together numerous producers. You'll also have the chance to take a guided tour and learn a little more. Producers also offer other products that may be easier to transport or use: vanilla extract and vanilla powder. Numerous blends with the flavours of Réunion Island are also sold in the store, including vanilla rum, vanilla jam and vanilla sugar - a real treat. Last but not least, you'll find beautiful frosted vanilla beans on the island. This is not a different kind of vanilla, but a crystallization that occurs during the vanilla-making process. The vanillin crystals, highly concentrated in flavor, can be used in cooking and are tinged with flavors that may recall prunes or caramel.
