Colonization and Catholicism
Catholicism, in its various forms, was the first officially authorized religion on the island, with education and evangelization forming part of the missions of the Compagnie orientale des Indes, which administered the colony in its early days. The first chapel was built in 1667 in the old Saint-Paul district. Few priests, however, wanted to settle on a remote, deserted island. The first religious representatives were therefore the Capuchin missionaries, then the Lazarist builders and finally the Spiritans, often Portuguese, Brazilian or Italian. It wasn't until 1850 that Pope Pius IX made Bourbon a bishopric. Since then, freedom of worship has been established, but the Catholic religion remains the most important on Reunion Island. The feast of La Salette, celebrated in September in Saint-Leu, gives rise to a three-day pilgrimage, and some communes even give their employees days off for the occasion. As religion is less taboo than in mainland France, Creoles express their piety at the edge of gullies, in the hollows of cliffs, in the form of ti'bon Dieu, small chapels and oratories topped by a cross, with a Vierge au Parasol or a Vierge noire. People come here to make offerings, light candles and hang votive offerings. Legendary figures such as La Buse, Sitarane and Saint Expédit, endowed with magical powers, are also collected here. During your stay, don't forget to visit these evocative, landscaped cemeteries..
Engagement and Hinduism
From 1848 onwards, slavery was replaced by engagism, and many Indians settled in Reunion, mainly around the large sugar factories. Their contracts authorized them to practice their religion, but in practice Hinduism was considered a pagan cult, forcing them to practice mainly in homes and factories. The first official temples, financed by a wealthier generation of Indians, were not built until the early 20th century. Brightly colored, they illuminate the Reunion landscapes, and each temple is dedicated to a particular divinity. The recurring characters are Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the Preserver of the world, and Shiva the Destroyer, who make up the Hindu trinity. The goddess Kali, very popular on Reunion Island, intervenes as a manifestation of this time constructed and deconstructed by Shiva. Among the great ceremonies performed in these temples is the impressive fire-walking performed by men, women and sometimes even children in early January and mid-July. This is often preceded by a colorful parade around the temple, which visitors are welcome to attend - provided, of course, that they respect the ceremony's proceedings. The communes offer the general public majestic ceremonies for Cavadee in May and Dipavali in October, with dancing, singing and fireworks. Not to be missed. Visits to temples are permitted, but are subject to rules that are usually posted at the entrance. Reunion Islanders of Indian origin are known as "Malbar", in reference to the Malabar coast (west), but in reality most come from the east coast (Coromandel coast).
Islam and trade
Present since the beginning of slavery, Islam was officially banned until abolition in 1848. With the beginnings of engagism, the cloth trade developed, and many Indians from the Gujarat region settled on the island to promote India-Reunion trade, forming the first Muslim communities. The first mosque was built in downtown Saint-Denis in the early 20th century, followed by another in Saint-Pierre. Today, Muslim communities own most of the shops in the town center, whose rents contribute to the financing and upkeep of the mosque. As a result, store opening hours are often timed to coincide with the call to prayer, which sounds once or several times a day, depending on the commune. Note to the curious: some busy mosques are open to the public. Such is the case of the Noor-e-Islam mosque, otherwise known as "The Light of Islam", one of the oldest in France. Located on rue Maréchal-Leclerc in the heart of Saint-Denis, you'll have no trouble finding it. The Saint-Paul church is also well worth a visit. You may be surprised to hear the word "zarab" used here without taboo or connotation of any kind to designate this religious community, but this is an abuse of Reunionese language, as the practitioners are mostly Indo-Muslim.
Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism
It is estimated that some 15,000 Réunionese are of Chinese origin. Perfectly integrated, some have even adopted the Catholic religion. With the arrival of the Engagements, regular immigration began, giving rise to a real community that quickly developed a commercial activity to which their rural origins did not predispose them. The Chinese specialized in food, whether as small shopkeepers selling wine, charcoal and basic necessities, or as wholesalers importing large quantities of grain and rice. Reunionnese of Chinese origin have adopted Catholicism, but continue to practice certain popular cults. We're not necessarily talking about religion, but rather philosophy. They represent Lao-tseu (Taoism), Buddha, Confucius or Gwan Di. Here again, you may have the opportunity to visit the island's beautiful Buddhist temples, especially during Chinese New Year, celebrated in most communes with singing, dragon dances and lantern releases.
Popular beliefs and emblematic male figures
You only have to visit certain cemeteries to realize that the Creoles' rites are not very Catholic. Madagascar and its spirits are not far from this small island, where African rites are mixed with old superstitions. Reunionnese of all denominations also worship certain key figures such as Saint Expédit. Wherever you are on the island, you'll see little red chapels dedicated to him, also known as ti'chapelle bon Dieu. Represented by a Roman soldier in cuirass and red cape, holding in his hand a cross inscribed "Hodie" (today), and crushing with his foot a raven inscribed "Cras" (tomorrow), he is the saint we pray to to grant a wish quickly, but also to take revenge on someone. Sitarane is another of the island's emblematic men. This Reunionese myth is based on the true story of Simicoundza Simicourba, from his nickname Sitarane, a model farm worker with no history. But in 1909, he met two accomplices with whom he formed a trio of burglars operating all over the island, lulling their victims to sleep and spreading fear in their homes. One of them, claiming to have magical powers, then urges the trio to commit countless murders in order to receive the gift of invisibility. The terror-stricken population then lends them numerous supernatural powers. Caught by the police, Sitarane is sentenced to death. Baptized just before his execution, he is considered to have been cleansed of all sin, and thus enjoys a certain fervor. He is invoked for healing, protection from danger and to ward off enemies. Sitarane's tomb in the Saint-Pierre cemetery has become a place of devotion, with strange black masses held there.
Women and Legends
When it comes to legends, Réunion Island has no shortage of female characters. If we had to choose just one, it would of course be Granny Kalle (or Granmèr Kal). This widespread belief has been so distorted that it's impossible today to find the original meaning; there are multiple versions. An early story tells that Kalle was a gentle, kindly nénène living with white people along the Rivière d'Abord in Saint-Pierre (a nénène was a kind of housekeeper-good woman in charge of running the house and raising the children). She was raising a mischievous black child who, during one of her adventures, fell into the river. Kalle tried to save the child, but both were swept away. The voice of Kalle's soul is said to be that of a bird, the tuit-tuit, which lives only in the area. Another version recounts that Kalle was the daughter of a brown Negro who, during his flight, didn't have time to recover his daughter. Kalle was then raised by the whites, which enraged the brown black. The latter then captured Kalle, who disappeared forever. The bird is said to be the girl's plaintive song. In any case, children will tell you that if you hear a sound going "all all" at night, it's a harbinger of bad luck: it's probably Grandma Kalle who's coming to eat you.
Another emblematic female figure is the Black Madonna. She is said to have saved the life of Mario, a young runaway slave who was eagerly sought after. Also known as the "Black Mother", her name derives from the color of the statue, made of ebony wood, but she also became, through her actions, the protector of slaves. Her statue still stands where Mario placed it, at Rivière des Pluies, in the commune of Sainte-Marie. Today, the statue is still flowered and venerated, and every year massive processions take place to honor her. Whether you believe in it or not, watching such an event is always interesting.
Finally, the most mysterious is the Madonna of the Parasol. Originally placed in the fields by a Bois-Blanc farmer to protect his crops, the statue of the Virgin sheltered by a parasol is the only survivor of a lava flow: the fire destroys everything in its path, but seems to bypass the Virgin, who remains intact. Moved to the lava road along the RN2 to protect it from future eruptions, it was not spared from the 1961 lava flow, which buried it. A replica was then molded and placed at Piton Sainte-Rose, before being moved back to Grand-Brûlé. Constantly in bloom, the people of Reunion still call on her to protect their homes from a devastating eruption, and every year the Assumption mass is dedicated to her. Since then, however, the statue has been desecrated several times and has found refuge inside the Notre-Dame-des-Laves church.
