A visual and audio change of scenery
During the very first European expedition to New Zealand in 1769-1770, Captain James Cook and his crew were struck by the strength and melodious character of the birds' song at dawn, describing it as "deafening". James Cook described the Korimako (" Bell birds " in English, "Méliphage carillonneur" in French) as "like exquisitely tuned little chimes". The botanist Joseph Banks wrote the most eloquent description of this first expedition in 1769-1770. On January 17, 1770, he wrote in his diary:
"This morning I was awakened by the singing of the birds on the coast scarcely a quarter of a mile distant, they must have been extremely numerous, and seemed to subject their throats to great exertion, perhaps for the sake of emulation; their songs were the most melodious wild music I ever heard, imitating almost little chimes, but with a silver sound tunable beyond the imaginable".
Even if today these songs are less powerful, due to the decline or even extinction of many species, it's still a complete change of scenery for any newcomer to Kiwi land, and it's always with a deep sense of wonder that we sit down in the parks or forests to listen to these incredibly different melodies.
It's a feast for the ears, but also, as you'd expect, a feast for the eyes. Because, like what you hear, much of what you see is unique to this country and found nowhere else on the globe.
A high rate of endemism
Indeed, New Zealand has one of the highest rates of endemism on the planet: 80% of the 2,500 native species of ferns, conifers and flowering plants are found nowhere else on the globe, as are 71% of the birds present in New Zealand before the arrival of man, 90% of freshwater fish and 100% of bats, amphibians and reptiles. An impressive score that New Zealand owes to its long isolation from other land masses. Research is still in full swing to find out when and how the species that populate Aotearoa today colonized these lands. Zealandia separated from Gondwana in the middle of the Cretaceous, around 85 million years ago. The Cretaceous was the golden age of dinosaurs, and dinosaurs were undoubtedly present on Zealandia; bits and pieces of skeletons found here and there suggest that dinosaurs and mammals were present on the continent after its separation from Gondwana. Yet when humans discovered this land in the 13th century, it was birds that reigned supreme. Dinosaurs suffered the same fate as elsewhere on the planet, but the extinction of mammals remains one of the greatest mysteries of Aotearoa's prehistoric times. Nevertheless, the absence of mammals, combined with isolation from other lands, has enabled New Zealand to develop a flora and fauna unique in the world.
Unfortunately, human presence has greatly altered this uniqueness through the introduction of predators (rats, ferrets, ermines, cats, dogs, possums...) and deforestation orchestrated by the Māori and then the Europeans to extract building materials and gain arable land. It is estimated that 40-50% of endemic bird species have been driven to extinction and that 14 million hectares of forest disappeared between the 13th century (when the first Polynesians arrived) and the end of the 20th century.
Awareness of the problem began to rise in the 1970s. In 2002, policies took a radical turn and the exploitation of primary forests was completely banned. Today, numerous conservation programs are in place to not only preserve, but also restore the original flora and fauna.
Emblematic species
Despite the devastation of the forests and the wave of mass extinction suffered by the local fauna, New Zealand remains extremely rich in extraordinary species that are sure to delight the eyes and ears of visitors! A walk in the New Zealand bush is like a stroll in prehistoric times, and getting to know the endemic species opens up a whole new world you never knew existed.
Here are just a few of the animals and plants that are the pride of the country:
The kiwi. The kiwi is probably the most widespread symbol of New Zealand. Here called "kiwi bird", to distinguish it from kiwi, the fruit (here called kiwifruit), or Kiwi, the inhabitant. Yes, in everyday language, New Zealanders call themselves Kiwis. Here's a little tip: the word "kiwi" is originally a Māori word, a language that doesn't use the "s" as a plural. "Kiwis" with an "s" therefore refers to the inhabitants, while "kiwi" without an "s" refers to the birds.
There are 5 species of kiwi: North Island Brown Kiwi, Southern Brown Kiwi, Great Spotted Kiwi, Okarito Kiwi and Little Spotted Kiwi. Kiwis, as we all know, can't fly. Their wings are so small they can barely be distinguished from their feathers, and their feathers are so dense they almost look like fur. Nocturnal and extremely discreet, it's very difficult to see them in the wild. Some companies, in the Okarito area or on Steward Island, offer night tours to try and catch a glimpse of the famous bird.
The silverfern ( ponga in Māori). Another of the country's emblems, the silver fern is one of Aotearoa's 200 fern species. They can reach heights of up to 10 m, and have the distinctive milky-white underside of their leaves. The Māori used this white to create landmarks at night, with the moonlight reflecting incredibly well.
The Pohutukawa. Nicknamed the "New Zealand Christmas tree" because it is adorned with magnificent red flowers in December, it is one of the most represented elements of nature in local iconography. They are found mainly in the northern half of the North Island.
The kea, the kākā and the kākāpō. The kea, kākā and kākāpō are the 3 parrots endemic to New Zealand. "Kākā" actually means parrot in Māori.
The kākā is extremely common in areas where conservation programs are in place, such as in Wellington or around Milford track. Unfortunately, it remains endangered, although it has recently been classified as "convalescent".
It's highly intelligent, great fun to watch, and its call has that little prehistoric something that always surprises a little and puts a smile on your face.
The kea is an alpine parrot, the only one in the world! Like its fellow kākā, it's devilishly intelligent, and very playful to boot. A chaotic player, like cats. In Kea territory, hikers are strongly advised not to leave their shoes lying around outside, or risk ending up with shoes with holes, no laces, or no shoes at all. It's also not uncommon for them to attack cars, as the rubber that seals the doors is obviously great fun to extract from vehicles.
It lives only on the South Island, and is considered endangered.
The kākāpō is one of New Zealand's most unusual birds. A nocturnal parrot ("kākā" means "parrot" and "pō" means "night"), it can't fly, is the heaviest in the world (it can weigh up to 4 kg!), and is the only one with a "polygynous lek" breeding system. The males all gather in the same area, where they each build a kind of small arena - a lek - in which they parade for several days to attract females. The females then choose the male they find most attractive. Courtship and mating then follow, with the female returning to her territory to lay eggs while the male tries to attract another female. Females lay 1 to 3 eggs per reproductive cycle, i.e. every 3 to 5 years! In fact, kākāpō only start a reproductive cycle when the trees in their habitat produce a large quantity of fruit (known as the "mast season" in English).
The kākāpō in great danger of extinction. There are currently around 250 individuals, all living in predator-free nature reserves.
The tūī and the korimako ("méliphage tui" and "méliphage carillonneur" in French). Both members of the meliphage family, the tūī and the korimako are very similar in song, but not at all in looks!
The tūī is the size of a magpie, while the korimako is the size of a sparrow. The tūī has black and inky-blue hues, and has a throat adorned with two small white feathers, while the korimako is draped in green. Their song, on the other hand, is hard to distinguish for the untrained ear. And with good reason: the tūī, with its 2 sets of vocal cords, is a specialist in imitations. It does, however, have a slightly huskier voice, and if you really pay attention, you'll recognize the korimako by the purity of the notes it produces. Exquisitely tuned chimes", as Captain Cook would say.
The hoiho and the kororā. The hoiho, or yellow-eyed penguin, is one of the rarest penguins in the world. Threatened with extinction, it is one of the darlings of New Zealanders, who are stepping up their conservation efforts.
At 35 to 42 cm, the kororā, or little blue penguin, is the smallest of all penguins! It is not endemic, however, and can also be seen in Australia. In New Zealand, the two best places to observe these species are the Catlins region and the Banks Peninsula.
The wētā. The wētā is New Zealand's most famous insect. A little scary but not dangerous for a penny, it looks like a cross between a grasshopper and a cricket. There are around a hundred different species, the most famous of which is certainly the wētāpunga, the giant wētā, which can reach the size of the palm of your hand and weigh as much as a sparrow!
The tuatara. Described as a "living fossil", the tuatara is the last representative of the Rhynchocophalian order, an order of reptiles that populated the Earth during the time of the dinosaurs. Its name means "spiked back" in Māori. Unusual: tuatara are born with a3rd eye in the middle of their forehead. Its function remains uncertain, and it is only visible for the first 4 to 6 months of the animal's life, then covering itself with scales and pigment.
