Characteristic products
Agriculture and livestock farming are an essential part of New Zealand's economy. The country is the world's third-largest producer of sheepmeat - sheep and lamb combined - with a flock of almost 27 million animals, or almost four sheep for every human. The animals graze outdoors all year round, producing meat of excellent quality. But there is also a high consumption of beef, pork and poultry, as well as game: deer introduced from Europe have thrived in the local forests. Beef also means milk, as New Zealand is the world's leading exporter and eighth-largest producer of milk, and the fourth-largest producer of butter. The country is also famous for its cheeses, even if most are local versions of European cheeses: cheddar, brie, camembert, gouda, etc.
Largely open to the sea, New Zealand offers ideal conditions for leisure, sport and commercial fishing, with extremely rich fish stocks. The South Island and the area around Lake Taupo are world-renowned for their abundance of trout and salmon. At sea, snapper is often at the end of the line, not to mention tuna, mackerel, swordfish, blue cod or rāwaru, hoki (hake), tarakihi (sea bream), and so on.Whitebait is one of the South Island's specialties.
And let's not forget the excellent local seafood. The country's most remarkable shellfish, the paua(Haliotis iris - closely related to the North Pacific abalone) was an important part of the Maori diet. It is still widely eaten today, and its meat is prized for export. The iridescent shell is widely used in Maori culture. It serves as an ornament and is used to make jewelry. Also of note aregreen-lipped mussels and Bluff oysters, as well as scallops, kina (sea urchin), prawns, lobsters and more.
Thanks to a varied but generally mild climate, New Zealand produces a wide variety of vegetables, fruit and cereals. Kumara is a famous New Zealand variety of sweet potato, which is particularly popular in the form of French fries. Potatoes, squash, leafy vegetables (spinach, cabbage, broccoli, etc.) and corn are also popular. The country also produces a wide range of fruit: grapes, apples, peaches, cherries and red berries. It is the world's second-largest producer of kiwifruit, the emblematic fruit of New Zealand from which it does not originate. The kiwi - native to China - takes its name from a New Zealand bird, unable to fly, whose round silhouette and ruffled brown plumage are reminiscent of the famous fruit. There are several varieties, such as the yellow-fleshed Zespri Gold, or the hairless mini-kiwi, which can be eaten with its skin.
Invented in Australia, but inextricably linked with New Zealand, vegemite is a blackish, viscous paste made from yeast extracts, spices and vegetables. Its intense, highly salty, fermented taste could be likened to a bouillon-cube. Similar to the English Marmite, it is traditionally eaten spread thinly on buttered toast to soften the taste, but is also used to marinate meats. Thanks to its high salt content, the product can be stored for an extremely long time.
Mānuka honey is produced from the nectar of the mānuka tree, a member of the Leptospermum genus native to New Zealand. It has a unique, intense aroma and is said to have healing properties.
Eating habits and catering
While breakfast is an institution in English-speaking countries, lunch is often eaten on the run. Lighter and as easy to eat as it is to prepare, the lunch menu is different from the dinner menu in restaurants. Diners often dine early, before 7pm, which explains why it's difficult to find a restaurant open late at night, especially in rural areas, as the range of opening hours is wider in big cities.
New Zealanders regularly eat in fast-food outlets, but also in food courts, where you can choose from a number of fast-food outlets at a generally affordable price. Fish'n'chips and pies stalls are as popular as ever, and can be found everywhere. But there are also a host of restaurants and cafés offering a more intimate setting and a more qualitative and inventive cuisine.
" BYO " is an acronym for " Bring Your Own ", which means bring your own bottle of booze. In New Zealand, restaurants can be described as licensed (they can sell alcohol), BYO (customers can bring their own bottle of alcohol) or unlicensed (they can't serve alcohol). Some places have a double license: they sell alcohol but also let customers bring their own drinks. It's best to check with the restaurant before setting up shop, as some will charge a corkage fee.
Until the 1950s-1960s, New Zealand cuisine was based exclusively on the country's British heritage. Although declining, the amount of meat consumed by New Zealanders is impressive, and on some livestock farms it was common to eat mutton for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The traditional New Zealand meal consists of meat, potatoes and vegetables, followed by pudding. Like other Anglo-Saxon countries, notably the USA and Australia, New Zealand underwent a culinary revival from the 1980s-1990s, with the introduction of exotic ingredients, new culinary techniques and a more laudatory approach to Maori cuisine.
From the 1980s onwards, New Zealand also relaxed its migration policy and many migrants settled here, from Southeast Asia, China, Korea and India, as well as from the Pacific, the Middle East and Southern Europe. Today, the Asian and Polynesian communities together account for almost a third of New Zealand's population. Although they had difficulty finding the ingredients they needed for their cuisine when they first arrived, the diversity of imported products has grown over time, offering more authentic foreign cuisine restaurants in the process.
Classics of New Zealand cuisine
There are few local specialties per se, as New Zealand cuisine is above all a melting pot of British and Maori specialties punctuated by foreign influences, notably Asian and Mediterranean. The most native of local dishes is hangi. The Maoris still practice this traditional Polynesian cooking method, consisting of an oven dug into the earth in which food is steamed thanks to the heat released by heated stones. More and more non-Maori enthusiasts are enjoying the characteristic flavor of hangi. Large quantities of food can be prepared in this way, for the whole community. It is still customary for Maoris to prepare a hangi when feeding large numbers of people. Traditionally, fish, seafood and tubers - including the famous kumara or sweet potato - were the main ingredients, with the addition of pork, lamb, potatoes, squash and cabbage. Also noteworthy are suckling pig prepared for special occasions and rēwena, or "Maori bread", which is made with fermented potatoes, although its appearance is reminiscent of a loaf of farmhouse bread.
As in Australia, barbecuing is a major feature of New Zealand culture. Grilling lamb chops, sausages, beef ribs or chicken with a beer in hand seems to be the national sport, especially during the festive season, but really as long as the weather permits. The dish is accompanied by potato salad, garlic bread and raw vegetable salads. Of course, fish and seafood are also part of the " barbie ". Fish'n'chips, an English borrow, is a must, as are meat pies, small pies generously filled with minced meat, onions and sometimes cheese. Finally, the kiwiburger is simply a classic hamburger also topped with beet and a fried egg.
While these specialties may seem a little poor, the local cuisine has been turned upside down by the massive arrival of Chinese, Vietnamese, Arab, Indian, Italian, Thai and, of course, Polynesian communities, which have enabled local chefs to revisit the classics of Kiwi cuisine with new ingredients. You'll also find a host of restaurants where you can enjoy a good noodle dish, tasty sushi, a hearty kebab, a finely spiced curry or an authentic pizza.
Desserts and drinks
By far the most emblematic of local desserts is the pavlova. Created in honor of Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova during her tour of New Zealand in the 1920s, its paternity is disputed by Australia, a country also visited by the dancer. Made from a thick meringue, crisp on the outside and melting on the inside, it's topped with whipped cream and decorated with fruit, the strawberry-kiwi duo being a must. Hokey Pokey ice cream, a vanilla ice cream with honeyed caramel chips, is also a must. Other Anglo-Saxon pastries include cupcakes, muffins and cookies.
Until the 1990s, tea rooms proliferated throughout the country, offering cream tea with scones, cucumber sandwiches and a variety of pastries in a hushed, British atmosphere. From the 1990s onwards, coffee - which was generally just hot water and instant coffee - saw a spectacular increase in consumption. New Zealanders gradually developed a passion for strong coffees and espressos, as consumed in Southern Europe and Italy in particular.
For over half a century after the First World War, the compulsory 6 p.m. closing of pubs restricted beer-lovers to a meagre half-hour of short but intense after-work relaxation. The abolition of this law in 1967 transformed the predominantly male atmosphere of these pubs into a friendly, pleasant place. In 1999, the minimum drinking age was lowered to 18. Many beers are produced locally, especially on the South Island: Speights, Steinlager, Monteights, Macs and Tui are the best-known. But many microbreweries offer their own concoctions, and many other lesser-known brands can be tasted throughout the country.
Many of New Zealand's vineyards are now internationally renowned. Wine production, relatively modest until the 1970s, reached 329 million liters in 2020, making the country the world's fifteenth-largest wine producer and seventh-largest wine exporter. The Marlborough, Hawke's Bay and Gisborne regions dominate the country's wine industry. Marlborough is famous for its sauvignon blanc, Gisborne for its chardonnay, while Central Otago and Martinborough are known for pinot noir and pinot gris. Hawkes Bay is famous for its Cabernets.
Enjoying yourself New Zealand
Timetable New Zealand
New Zealand's rhythm of life can be a bit confusing for us Europeans!
Here, we get up early and go to bed early. The typical working day runs from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (the famous "9 to 5"), and everyone goes home quietly after that.
Lunch is eaten in a hurry, usually somewhere between 12 and 2:30pm. After 3pm, there's no one left in the cafés, which consequently usually close between 3 and 4pm.
In the evening, you may linger to eat or have a drink, but the establishments empty out by 8.30/9pm, and you are then gently pushed out so that they can close their doors, even if this doesn't correspond to the closing times indicated.
"Go with the flow" is one of the country's mottos! And it applies to everything. In this case, if the flow of customers dries up, we close earlier. It's rarer, but on the other hand, if the flow is greater than usual, we sometimes stay open longer than indicated. So be careful not to take the times quoted at face value, as they can fluctuate. Many establishments don't even bother with a closing time, simply indicating that they're open until "late". In other words, "if no one's there, we close, no matter what time".
Budget & Tips New Zealand
The average price for lunch is around $20-25, and more like $25-30 for dinner.
Don't panic if you've bitten off more than you can chew: here, doggy bags are commonplace and will never be refused.
A good idea for a good, inexpensive meal on the go in the evening: in the cities, sushi restaurants liquidate their stocks at the end of the day (between 3 and 4 pm) and sell boxes of sushi to take away for $5 to $8.
Many establishments also run specials depending on the day of the week! If you see a slate showing a "241" something (burger, pizza, dessert, drink...), don't read it as "Two hundred and forty-one" but "Two-Four-One"; "Two for One": two for the price of one!
To find the best deals by city and day of the week, visit https://gethappy.co.nz/
If you're going out for dinner and don't want to spend miles and cents on alcoholic beverages at the restaurant, you can look for "BYO" establishments, an acronym for "Bring Your Own", where you're allowed to bring your own bottle.
What costs extra New Zealand
No complicated calculation of taxes like in the US, here everything is included in the price, even the service. So tipping is not common, but it is always highly appreciated. Restaurant jobs are quite thankless and often paid at minimum wage, so you'll be glad you tipped a little.
No extra charge for water, just ask for tap water. Most of the time you don't need to ask for tap water because it is self-service. Restaurants set up "water stations" where you fill your glass (or carafe for the table) yourself. Keep your eyes open and scan the horizons before asking the waiter! (And if you take the carafe from the water station to fill the glasses at your table, don't forget to put it back in its place for the other customers!)
The local way New Zealand
New Zealand is a country where "eat out" and "take-away" have a strong place in the culture. People don't cook much, and eat out or take-away a lot. So, when it comes to catering, we're not talking about gastronomy, but mostly about simple, practical, good food that you can eat every day. In fact, the majority of establishments don't even call themselves "restaurants" but "eateries" - simply places where you can eat.
Local specialties follow this pattern, and you can't get much more Kiwi than the famous fish'n'chips (be careful with the accent, it often turns into "Fush'n'Chups"), pies filled with beef and cheese or butter chicken (a classic recipe for chicken in sauce), or sausage rolls. No great gastronomy, we tell you, but it's good and it's practical.
Similar to their Australian neighbors (don't tell them we said that), another common practice here is outdoor barbecuing (BBQ). Many public parks are equipped with them, and anyone can set up shop and prepare their own meal. A great way to plan a festive afternoon with friends! If you're going to indulge in this custom, be as scrupulous as the locals and clean up your barbecue thoroughly after use.
Fast food is also an important part of the culture. Most of the major chains are present in the country, some of which (KFC, to name but one) are intriguingly successful.
If you hear the name "Macca's", don't be put off, it's simply McDonald's.
Two local fast-food chains are worth trying at least once: Burger Fuel and Hell's pizza.
To be avoided New Zealand
Do not forget your passport if you are (or look to be) between 18 and 25 years old and you were hoping to have a beer or a glass of wine with your meal, as identity checks to verify age are almost systematic.
In restaurants and cafés, there is no need to wait for hours at your table for someone to come and take your order: table service is rather the exception and you often have to order at the counter. If in doubt, ask when you are seated.
Kids New Zealand
Children are generally welcome everywhere, but there are some very strict rules on alcohol policies.
Establishments licensed to serve alcohol may choose to divide their premises into different zones where different rules apply. There are three types of zone: restricted, supervised and undesignated. In "restricted" zones, minors under 18 are not allowed; in "supervised" zones, they must be accompanied by a legal guardian; in "undesignated" zones, there are no age restrictions. Some establishments apply only one of these designations, while others choose to create several zones and restrict access to only some of them.
In terms of consumption, it is forbidden for minors under the age of 18 to buy alcohol. They may, however, taste or drink a little if the drink has been purchased by a parent or guardian.
Kiwis don't take this lightly, however, and identity checks to verify age are very common. If you've just turned 18, you'll constantly need to prove it, so make sure you've got your passport with you!
Smokers New Zealand
Smoking indoors is against the law. Vaping is not, but in practice it's often the same treatment that's meted out to vapers: if you want to smoke, smoke outside and that's that!
Some places will tolerate smoking or vaping on terraces.
In 2022, New Zealand declared war on tobacco by passing a law increasing the legal age at which cigarettes and tobacco can be purchased each year, so that the next generation will legally never be allowed to buy them.
A Secretary of State for Health defended the bill in Parliament, saying:
"For decades we've allowed the tobacco industry to maintain their profits by making increasingly addictive products. It's disgusting and bizarre. There are more laws in this country guaranteeing the safety of selling a sandwich than there are guaranteeing the safety of selling cigarettes (...) Our priority is to protect people, protect our families, protect our communities."
Some members of Parliament are concerned that the ban will lead to the development of a black market, but the law was passed anyway at the end of 2022 and applied from 2023.
Take a break New Zealand
Timetable New Zealand
For cafés, the classic opening times are 7am-3pm.
Bars generally open around 4-5pm, with a happy hour between 4pm and 6pm. On weekdays, they close very early! Between 9pm and 10pm, depending on how busy they are.
Many establishments are open 7 days a week, but some close one or two days a week, usually somewhere between Sunday and Thursday.
Some stores, the aptly named "Night 'n Day", are open day and night (24/7 in the big cities, but "only" from 6am to 11pm in the more isolated corners), and you'll be able to find something to nibble on at any hour if you're feeling peckish at an unlikely hour. French fries, fried chicken, pies, milkshakes, ice cream... nothing fantastically healthy, but it'll tide you over!
Budget & Tips New Zealand
Look for weekly deals and promotions by city and day of the week on https://gethappy.co.nz/ !
Age restrictions New Zealand
The sale of alcohol is strictly forbidden to anyone under 18. It's almost systematic to be IDed when you look under 25 ("ID" is an acronym for "Identification Documents" and is used as a verb meaning to have your papers checked - "Did they ID you?"/"Have you been IDed? - Have they checked your papers?)
So make sure you have your passport with you if you're in this age bracket, because we don't play around with it here. If you look a little young and don't have the papers to prove you're of legal drinking age, not only will you not be served, but you could be refused entry to (or kicked out of) an establishment (by the way: that goes for buying alcohol in stores too. Identity cards are systematically checked. And if you're in a group, the whole group is checked).
Reminder: establishments authorized to serve alcohol can be classified or divided into different zones where different rules apply. There are three types of zone: "restricted" (under-18s are prohibited), "supervised" (under-18s must be accompanied by a legal guardian) and "undesignated" (no restrictions).
However, under-18s can still drink alcohol if the glass is purchased by the accompanying legal guardian.
What's very local New Zealand
In New Zealand, the culture is very relaxed and chill, so there are plenty of options for taking a break somewhere and having a good time with friends.
Dairy stores. One of New Zealand's institutions, an absolute must-see that you're bound to hear about, are the dairies. Dairy means dairy products. These small local stores sell milk, but not only milk. While their original function was undoubtedly to sell dairy products, today they're little mini-markets that have sprung up all over towns and countryside, and are an indispensable part of local life. You'll find basic necessities, as well as a wide range of products to satisfy a craving: sweets, cookies, ice cream, etc. In Wellington and Auckland, you can often top up your bus pass.
They are also often associated with two of the country's flagship franchises: Tip-Top and Chicken'n'Chips. Tip-Top is THE most widespread ice cream brand, and represents a treasure trove of local pride (Kiwis are always very proud of products that were born here, and given the young age of the country, it's an important part of their identity). It's a bit like our Carte d'Or. If you want to fill your freezer with them, you can find them in supermarkets, and if you just want an ice cream break during the day, you can go hunting for a dairy store !
Coffee. There's a strong coffee culture in New Zealand, particularly in Wellington, famous for its many roasters right in the heart of the city.
Here, café au lait is king, with many variations to which we French are generally unaccustomed: latte, cappuccino, mochaccino, macchiato, and the famous flat white, the local specialty!
It's simply a latte with a little less milk and a little less foam (flatter, hence the name " flat " white). Flat white is one of the things New Zealand and Australia vie with each other to invent, in their legendary friendly rivalry!
If you don't want to drink cow's milk, there's a wide range of plant milks: soya, almond, coconut and oat.
If you want a black coffee, ask for a short black (espresso), a long black or an americano (an even longer black).
And if you want a little sweetness in your coffee, you can ask for a dose of vanilla syrup, caramel, hazelnut, or even more original flavors like ginger and turmeric(tumeric).
Note that the caffeine standard here is double-shot; if you want a single-shot, you'll have to make a special request!
Craft beer
The country's second drug - after coffee - is beer! Microbreweries are legion in New Zealand (especially in Wellington once again), and it's a real paradise for aficionados.
Among the big names: Garage Project, Panhead, Boneface, 8 Wired, Sawmill, Behemot, Hop Federation, Duncan's, Mean Doses, Parrot Dog, Good George, Three sisters, Double Vision, Epic, Liberty, Yeastie Boys, Spring and Ferns, Moa, Kereru... it's impossible to name them all, and new ones open every year!
In a more classic range, Emerson, Speight, Steinlager, Monteith and Mac's are less experimental and are sure-fire values for those looking for a simple, good, inexpensive beer.
On the cider side, Morning Cider, Orchard Thieves and Zeffer are the 3 main names. Many breweries also try their hand at cider, and offer at least one cider in the middle of all their beers! Monteith, for example, has a cider in its range that is one of the classics.
It's worth noting that New Zealand cider is much sweeter than local cider! Evendry cider, which is still rarely explored and therefore hard to find, is infinitely sweeter than what we know.
Pub night
In New Zealand, it's not very common to invite one another to the home for an aperitif or a meal, as we do in France; instead, we meet up outside for a beer in a pub orbrewery. It's a convivial moment, and pub/brewery culture revolves around it: we order shared plates, small dishes to share, and many pubs organize quiz nights, bingo or other entertainment.
Shared plate classics include: jalapeño poppers, corn fritters, wedges, fries, cauliflower wings, chicken wings, hummus... if you go upmarket, you'll find more elaborate dishes, but it's a safe bet that you'll find at least one of these classics!
If you're in the country on ANZAC Day or Good Friday (Easter Friday), alcohol sales are very limited on these two days, as it would be considered disrespectful to be a little too tipsy on these special days. If you wish to drink, you'll be asked to order food as well, so that the alcohol doesn't go to your head. Note that this is not only cultural, it's required by law.
Kids New Zealand
Some establishments (those with a "restricted" license) are strictly forbidden to those under 18.
Most of the time, the establishments are classified as "supervised", which means that people under 18 are welcome as long as they are accompanied by a legal guardian.