The Terres de l'Ebre territory is a region rich in diversity, which hosts charming fishing villages. Classified as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO, it also has sumptuous coasts, sometimes rocky, sometimes punctuated by confidential calas and wide golden beaches much less frequented than those of the Costa Brava. On the north coast, we will dive among hordes of giant tunas and try sea kayaking before discovering the amazing marine fauna of L'Ametlla de Mar. A terrace will then do the trick to attend the fish auction, seated in front of a succulent seafood restaurant. To reach the south, take the GR92, an old pirate pathway that winds between the peaks while revealing treasures of coves lined with pines and agave trees, to L'Ampolla, a small fishing village and gateway to the Delta. Along the coast, you will then find Sant Carles de la Ràpita, a dynamic tourist centre, where you can taste exquisite shrimps and oysters from the Delta, drizzled with white wine from the AOC Terra Alta DOTA. Finally, Alcanar stands out, with its many remains, its fishing hamlet with its everlasting traditions and its good restaurants. In short, a trip along the coast of the Terres de l'Ebre is a unique opportunity to discover four charming fishing villages.
L'Ametlla de Mar, between ochre rocks, crystal clear waters and bluefin tuna
We start happily with this old fishing village with its white facades which has managed to preserve all the charm of the Mediterranean fishing ports. Ametlla de Mar is located almost in the centre of the Gulf of Sant Jordi, on the northeast border of the Baix Ebre. At the end of each afternoon (except in May and June), around 4pm, the port comes alive with the return of boats full of fish sold by auction on site and in the building of the Confraria de Pescadors (Fishermen's Brotherhood).
The superb coast of L'Ametlla de Mar is also the occasion for a pleasant stroll where you can enjoy a succession of beaches of light sand, pebbles, steep cliffs and wild coves bordered by waters of exceptional transparency. And for good reason, off its beaches lie the meadows of oceanic posidonia, an aquatic plant endemic to the Mediterranean, a source of oxygen where many underwater species have established themselves. The coastal landscape reveals a coastline of ochre rocks with typical Mediterranean vegetation where pines, olive trees and agave trees grow to the water's edge. The inhabitants have nicknamed the city "la cala" which means "the creek", in reference to its natural port. To the north of the city stands the castle of Sant Jordi d'Alfama, a 13th century fortress that had to endure repeated attacks from Saracen pirates before being rebuilt in the 18th century.
Ametlla de Mar will also delight lovers of active tourism who will practice sailing, kayaking, surf paddle, diving and snorkeling in optimal conditions. As for gastronomy, the city has some very good addresses that highlight freshly caught seafood products, including the famous "tonyina vermella" (or bluefin tuna), the city's flagship specialty.
L'Ampolla, desert beaches and seafood from the Delta
L'Ampolla is a seaside resort particularly appreciated by the inhabitants of the region, and its location at the mouth of the Ebro Delta makes it an ideal starting point to discover the natural reserve of the Ebro Bay. There is a coastline of dunes and long desert beaches. You can also follow the developed coastal path which passes through many coves and leads to the large sandy beach of Cap Roig (red in Catalan). Due to the seaside, the village prides itself on offering the best fish and seafood in the Delta, to be tested without hesitation. This is the place to enjoy "suquets mariners", "fideuà" (paella made with vermicelli) or "l'anguila en suc" (in sauce or broth) or "fumada" (smoke). And you shouldn't leave without tasting the Delta oyster. Its oyster cultures have enabled L'Ampolla to become an essential city for lovers of the tasty iodine shell. To be enjoyed raw or prepared with talent by local restaurants! Unless you opt for a short cruise to the city's oyster and mussel cultures with Mirador de Baia. On the program: demonstration of artisanal fishing, tasting of delta seafood (mussels, oysters, clams, knives...), meal or tasting, on a wooden platform installed in the middle of the sea... Finally, if hikers will not miss the GR92 trail, note that the Major Festivities of L'Ampolla take place every year in June
Sant Carles de la Ràpita, fishing port, shrimps and natural park
Founded more than 1,000 years ago by the Moors who built a fortress near the mouth of the river, Sant Carles de la Ràpita is an important fishing port and a major tourist centre in the region. At the end of each day, the return of fishing boats unpacking their fish is a real spectacle. You can stop here to visit its emblematic places: its sea passig, the market square, the Guardiola lookout and its watchtower, the best place to admire the panoramic view of the Delta Natural Park, its auction and its fishing port, or the Ràpita lighthouse (almost one kilometre south of the city). In terms of gastronomy, between tradition and modernity, Sant Carles has a few very good typical restaurants: it is even sometimes called "the gastronomic capital of the Terres de l'Ebre". We will therefore not fail to taste the famous shrimps of the Ràpita (Llagostins), the city's flagship product or, as in L'Ampolla, take a boat trip to discover oyster and mussel cultures by stopping at the Musclarium, this oyster and mussel pool transformed into a restaurant on a large maritime platform. A walk on the water, a nice tasting, what more could you ask for? Perhaps stay in the Bay of Alfacs, one of the most important natural harbours in Europe and above all an ideal place to practice some pleasant water activities, such as paddle, sailing, kitesurfing or kayaking?
Alcanar, remains by the sea
The remains of the village of Moleta del Remei, founded between the 7th and 2nd centuries BC, bear witness to Alcanar's Iberian origins. The city was later dominated by the Romans, the Moors, before being conquered by the Crown of Aragon in medieval times. It was during this period that the city was fortified with walls and towers, some of which, such as the Carrer Nou tower, are still visible. The old town, in addition to its medieval streets, offers some historical monuments, such as its small neoclassical church, the cistern of the Vall de la Carrer del Forn or the mansions of the modern era, the Casa del Marquès, the Casa dels Sunyer or the Casa O'Connor, headquarters of the Centre for the Interpretation of Iberian Culture. But if part of the city is located inland, you quickly head for Les Cases d'Alcanar and Alcanar Platja, on the coast. Les Cases d'Alcanar, a fishing village that has preserved many aspects of charm and tradition, is renowned for its traditional cuisine. There is no shortage of good restaurants to enjoy rice dishes, fish and seafood, especially shrimp. Alcanar Platja, on the other hand, concentrates a large part of its touristactivities: its coastline reveals more than 12 km of beaches and coves bordered by calm and transparent water. You will not miss walking along these pristine beaches along the blue path or the well-developed bicycle path to the mouth of the Sénia River (about 4 km hike). Finally, in 2019, as every five years, the "Alcanar Five-Year Festivals" will be held from 2 to 14 October. This great religious festival, very important in the life of the village, celebrates the Virgin Mary. Processions, tanks and fireworks on the program!
Smart info
When? When? You can of course go there all year round, even if the arrival of fine weather and the beginning of long spring weekends is obviously a more pleasant time to enjoy the fishing villages of the Terres de l'Ebre.
Useful. To prepare your escapade as well as possible.
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