It is by walking along the pathways that once protected coastal villages from pirate incursions that we can appreciate the natural beauty of the Gerona province, with its jagged wild coves and azure creeks. A territory trapped between the sea and the mountains that centuries have failed to tame and which gave its name to the Costa Brava or the " Côte sauvage ". If its natural assets are no longer a secret, its myriad of cultural attractions, sometimes forgotten or traded for the celebrations of " sol y playa ", has everything to surprise. Heading for the Costa Brava and the Pyrenees of Girona, a region of Catalonia with a strong identity, a flourishing history and vibrant traditions.
Charming villages...
Connected to the province of Girona, the county of Empordà has the undeniable advantage of being a transit country, bordered by France, the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean Sea. To discover its amazing medieval heritage, you have to go inland and beat the countryside towards its small stone villages, some of which are among the most picturesque in Catalonia. Head for the Baix Empordà and its sleeping villages. In the heart of the county, Monells, a village with an ancient and timeless charm distilled by its old stones, is worth mentioning. Plaça Major, which was the setting for the comedy Ocho apellidos catalanes in 2015, was once one of the most important markets in the region. A short distance away, the village of Ullastret, the former capital of the Indiket people, preserves the remains of the largest Iberian settlement on the peninsula. But it is also necessary to mention its pretty medieval streets, cobbled and silent, where some cats sleep under the sun... Further south, Peratallada - which means " pierre taillée " - is another medieval jewel with its irregular layout, its majestic fortress castle and its plaça de les Voltes lined with stone arches. At nightfall, the artificial lights wrap this photogenic painting in magic. But if we had to mention only one, it would undoubtedly be Pals, the quintessence of the medieval beauties of the Empordà. Timeless alleys, stone tower, Gothic enclosure and noble buildings constitute its architectural ensemble as miraculously preserved as it is bewitching. And if by any chance we have chosen to travel around the region when the sun comes out, we will have the chance to immerse ourselves in the cultural excitement of the ÍTACA festival, scheduled from May to July. Theatre, dance, music and conferences are taking place in a dozen localities in the Baix Empordà, bringing to life some of the most beautiful sites in the area, such as the old centre of Pals, the Gala Dalí Castle Museum in Púbol and the Iberian village of Ullastret
... in medieval splendours
In the hollow of the bay of Roses, it is in Castelló d'Empúries that we will take our first steps into the Alt Empordà. While passing through the former capital of the county of Ampurias - it was from the 11th to the 14th century - you will immediately get to know its beautiful Gothic church dedicated to Santa Maria, nicknamed " la Empordà cathedral" for its remarkable dimensions, before visiting the labyrinth of its Jewish district, the convent of Sant Agustí, the palace or the magnificent Llotja de Mar. Every year in September, knights, courtesans, minstrels and craftsmen invade the old town to bring to life the " Terra de Trobadors " one of the oldest medieval festivals in Catalonia. A true ode to the medieval period, feverishly filled with music and dances from another era. You can also visit the remains of the Greco-Roman city of Empúries, before or after the Museu d'Arqueologia de Catalunya-Empúries, without forgetting to stop at the Aiguamolls de l'Empordà Natural Park where hundreds of birds offer silent observers the spectacle of their wild flights. About 25 km away, overlooking the sea and the carved figure of Cap de Creus, was the imposing Benedictine monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes. A fine example of the Catalan novel, it became the spiritual centre of the county of Empúries between the 11th and 14th centuries. From the top of this extraordinary site, as if shaped by divine forces, the church with its pre-Romanesque influences, the finely historical capitals of the cloister or the magnificent sculpted portal are some fascinating testimonies of Catalan artistic influence during the Middle Ages. Lower down, coves and wild corners are covered with an intense palette of colours as the sun sets..
The Gold Museum, a mirror of history
Return to the Gerona hinterland. Located in the former fortress of Sant Julià de Ramis, the DOR Museum - opened in 2018 - offers its magic to the curious: on the site of the Sants Metges mountain, its immediate green environment with its eloquent and strategic view already provides a pleasant feeling of serenity. The imposing mass with its mixed architecture, brilliantly melted in the dense oak forests, unfolds on three levels nearly 6,000 square metres of exhibition space that aims to sublimate and enhance the work of Catalan craftsmen. Jewellery, gemmology, precious metals, but also contemporary works of art are at the heart of an interactive visit. And for a complete experience, food lovers can enjoy a meal in the DOR Museum Restaurant while enjoying a local cuisine orchestrated by Jordi Cruz Mas, whose talent was rewarded in 2017 with a third Michelin star. The peaceful spirit, a lurch in the county of Gironès, will then lead us in the footsteps of these men and women who sealed their destiny to regional history
Memory spaces
In February 1939, hundreds of thousands of Spanish refugees fleeing Franco's Spain crossed the Franco-Spanish border. In La Jonquera - one of the most important border crossing sites in Spain - the Memorial Museum of Exile (MUME) looks back at the history of La Retirada. The exodus of Republicans to France was one of the most significant cross-border migratory movements in our history. Located in a former theatre, the MUME evokes with great didactic force our duty to remember, with photographs and period documents to support it. The museum's educational service offers several guided tours and exciting itineraries through the memory spaces of the exile. Some take the visitor across the border to the French concentration camp of Argelès-sur-Mer or to Collioure where the famous poet Antonio Machado succumbed to the terrible conditions of his exile. Further north, the village of Portbou, caught in a vice between the Pyrenees and the blue sea, in turn tells the story of Walter Benjamin
As a ritual of passage, we will first visit the site of the memorial created by the Israeli artist Dani Karavan in homage to the famous writer. Because Passages, the name of the work composed of three " passages " that open like windows on the Mediterranean, also refers to the Book of Passages, an unfinished work that Walter Benjamin began in 1927. Following in the footsteps of the German Jewish philosopher fleeing the Nazi regime during the Second World War, the " Ruta Walter Benjamin " also follows the route of the scholar's last journey from Banyuls-sur-Mer to Portbou, where he ended his life for fear of being delivered to Vichy France. On the way, the 15 kilometres of the path punctuated by belvederes offer a beautiful marked walk marked by typical Mediterranean vegetation swept by the wind of the Tramontane. A trip across the fields that reminds us that history and the natural environment remain inseparable
Smart info
When? When? The Costa Brava and the Pyrenees of Girona enjoy a Mediterranean climate. You can visit the region throughout the year and enjoy the many festivities and other cultural events. And while cooler winter temperatures are to be expected in mountainous regions, the sun will never be absent for very long. Spring and autumn remain the most pleasant seasons if you want to combine cultural and nature visits
Getting there. By plane, daily flights between France and Barcelona. It is then easy to reach the Costa Brava and the Pyrenees of Girona by road. In high season, direct flights to Girona airport are operated by Ryanair. It will take 5 hours 45 minutes for a Paris-Girona TGV, 6 hours 20 minutes for a Paris-Barcelona. For the bus, which is longer but more economical, we will turn to Eurolines
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COSTA BRAVA GIRONA TOURISM PATRONAT - More information on the website
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