A flora of exceptional diversity
In Greece, there are no fewer than 6,600 plant species. In relation to the size of the country (130,000 km2), this is the European record. Metropolitan France, which is four times larger, has only 6,000 plant species. And of the species found in Greece, around 800 are classified as rare and 1,000 plants are endemic, i.e. unique to the country (they may be found elsewhere, but they are native to Greece). This is the highest rate of endemism in Europe: 15% of the flora. Why such biodiversity? Firstly, as in the rest of the Balkans, the Greek territory has been less subject to the changes brought about by man (species selection, intensive agriculture, etc.). The other explanation is the highly diversified geography, with mountains, islands, deltas, lakes, arid and humid zones. Isolated islands and valleys form unique biotopes.
Most of Greece's 1,000 or so plant species are concentrated in Crete, the Peloponnese and Central Greece (north of Attica). Most of these are wildflowers or perennials, such as the Cretan dictamus (Origanum dictamnus), a shrub whose whitish leaves have been used since Minoan times to combat stomach ailments. Crete also boasts some 50 different types of orchid (around 190 for the whole country), including the extremely rare hooded cephalanthera (Cephalanthera cucullata), with its stem bearing a dozen white bell-shaped flowers. There are also 13 species of tulip, such as the Goulimis tulip, with its broad red petals, which grows only in the Peloponnese and on the islands of Crete and Kythera. Finally, there's the Convolvulus argyrothamnos, a pink-flowered bush found only in three valleys on Crete, and listed among Greece's 280 endangered plants.
A land of forests
Officially, they cover 45% of the territory. But this is a gross exaggeration, since it includes the vast "seas" of olive groves, various tree farms and a large part of the scrubland. In fact, wooded areas only really account for 20% of the land. And since the terrain is mountainous and the climate Mediterranean, they are mainly made up of conifers, notably Scots pine(Pinus sylvestris), Calabrian pine (Pinus brutia), black pine(Pinus nigra) and Bosnian pine(Pinus heldreichii), which grow at altitudes of 600 m, 1,200 m, 1,800 m and 2,400 m respectively. There are, however, some fine deciduous forests. These are rare, but unlike their Western European cousins, they have remained wild and are not exploited by man. In Crete, for example, the slopes of the Lefka Ori ("White Mountains") are covered with cypress and Cretan maple (Acer sempervirens). In the Peloponnese, near the archaeological site of Olympia, the Foli forest (40 km2) is a unique ecosystem in the Balkans, since it has been composed almost exclusively of oaks since Antiquity: Hungarian oak(Quercus frainetto), pubescent oak(Quercus pubescens) and holm oak(Quercus ilex). Once reputed to be home to centaurs and dryads (tree deities), it is now home to foxes, wild boars, eagles and more. The country's largest and richest forest, however, is the Dadia forest in Thrace, on the border with Turkey. Its 295 km2 of pines and oaks stretch from the Evros delta to the foothills of the Rhodopes at 800 m altitude. It is home to Europe's most varied fauna, with most migratory birds stopping off here, large vultures, brown bears and 40 species of reptiles and amphibians. Overall, Thrace is a must for any nature holiday in Greece. The region also includes the Elatia forest (75 km2), near Drama, with the most southerly spruces (Picea abies) in Europe, and the small mountain forest of Frakto (5.5 km2) on the Greek peak of the Rhodopes, at 1,950 m altitude. The latter, composed of spruce, beech, pine and rare bryophytes (ancestors of all terrestrial plants), is considered the only virgin forest in Greece.
A marine sanctuary
The waters of the eastern Mediterranean are warmer and saltier than in the west. This environment has enabled the development (and preservation) of a rich fauna. However, large marine animals rarely venture close to the coast. And although there are 47 species of shark, they present little danger: the last fatal attack took place in 1963, and Greek waters are considered the safest in the world when it comes to sharks. Dolphins (5 species in the country) and whales (7 species, the largest of which is the fin whale, which reaches 20 m in length) can be seen, for example on Mount Athos or near Lipsi (Dodecanese). In the Alonissos National Marine Park (Sporades), excursions allow you to observe the last specimens of the Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus). Diving enthusiasts will go in search of green sea anemones or the peacock girelle(Thalassoma pavo, gaïtanouri in Greek), a magnificent little fish with tropical colors. Gourmets will love the Cretan scarefish(Euscaruscretensis, Greek: skaros ), a cousin of the parrotfish and renowned since ancient times for its delicious flesh. But beware of thetsouchtra (Pelagia noctiluca), the only local species of jellyfish that is dangerous to humans: it measures 5 cm in diameter, is phosphorescent at night and only presents a risk when the current brings it to shore. Finally, Greece is home to the largest number of egg-laying sites (around 3,000) for the endangered loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta), which benefits from a protected area on the island of Zakynthos.
The birdwatcher's paradise in Europe
Greece is home to 445 bird species, 25% of which are rare (or endangered) and 70% of which are migratory. The latter spend most of their time in the wetlands and lakes of the northern part of the country, particularly in the Evros delta (on the border with Turkey), which attracts 100,000 birds and 75% of the country's species. The Prespa lakes (on the border with Albania and Northern Macedonia) are home to the world's highest concentration of the endangered curly pelican (Pelecanus crispus), represented here by 1,400 pairs. Greece also boasts the highest number of raptor species in Europe. These are found mainly in Thrace and the Rhodopes (on the Bulgarian border), home to the griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus) and the rare black vulture (Aegypius monachus). Crete is home to 25 pairs of Bearded Vultures (Gypaetus barbatus) and the majestic Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos ), with its 2 m wingspan. On the seaside, the two most common species are the Great Black-backed Gull (Larus cachinnans) and Eleonora's Falcon (Falco eleonorae). This raptor returns every year from Madagascar to nest on the Aegean islands and hunt for fish. Finally, among Greece's most common birds, we prefer the magnificent hoopoe (Upupa epops). A native of Africa, it nests in the Peloponnese as well as near the lakes of Macedonia. Referred to as the queen of birds by Aristophanes, it is distinguished by its beige plumage, erectile hoopoe and wings streaked with black and white.
Reptiles, amphibians and frogs
Snakes, lizards and turtles are at home everywhere: in mythology, on ancient coins and right in the heart of Athens. In the garden of the Museum of Popular Musical Instruments, for example, you'll be greeted by the venerable Greek tortoise (Testudo graeca). This close relative of Hermann's tortoise is the most common local species. It can be found along the coast, along with the Margined Turtle (Testudo marginata), which can be recognized by the flared ends of its shell. And, in addition to the rare loggerhead sea turtle (see above), there are two freshwater aquatic species: the spotted cistude (Emys orbicularis) and the lined Caspian emide (Mauremys caspica). As for snakes, there are 23 species here, most of them harmless. Five types of viper are dangerous to humans who disturb them: the Ottoman viper (Montivipera xanthina), found in Thrace and the northern Aegean islands; the Milos viper (Macrovipera schweizeri), Europe's most endangered species, found in the Cyclades, the amodyte viper (Vipera amodytes), common to all the Balkans and equipped with a horn, the peliad viper (Vipera berus), on the border with Northern Macedonia, and the Orsini viper (Vipera ursinii) established in the Pindus massif. You'll most likely notice the lizards, which are very different from those of Western Europe. Endemic to the Balkans, the wall lizard (Podarcis erhardii) is the most common, but it has adapted to its environment to give rise to subspecies such as the Skyros lizard (Podarcis gaigeae). There's also the enormous green lizard (Lacerta viridis) and various species of salamander, gecko and orvet. And near the site of the Battle of Navarin, in Gialova (Peloponnese), you'll find Europe's only species of chameleon, the Chamaeleo africanus, which comes from the Sahel and reaches 34 cm in length. Finally, among the amphibians, two endemic species stand out: the rare Greek frog (Rana graeca), which lives in the Balkan mountains, and the Epirote frog (Pelophylax epeiroticus), appreciated by gourmets on both sides of the border with Albania.
Focus on mammals
This is probably the part of the animal kingdom in Greece that offers the fewest surprises for visitors from Western Europe. The wild mammals are pretty much the same: squirrels, chamois, weasels, deer, hedgehogs, foxes and so on. However, there are some species that are rare in Europe: the African wild cat (Felis lybica) on Crete, the golden jackal (Canis aureus moreotica), with around 1,000 individuals on mainland Greece and the island of Samos, and the Rhodes fallow deer, which is related to the European fallow deer (Dama dama) but is smaller and native to Asia. Greece is also home to a large number of endemic bat species. Unfortunately, these are now threatened by the proliferation of wind turbines. And, as in the rest of the Balkans, the brown bear (Ursus arctos) and the gray wolf (Canis lupus) have been relatively well preserved. These two predators even enjoy state protection here. There are between 190 and 260 bears in the wild in Rodhopes and Pindus, and around a thousand wolves, mainly in central Greece. On the other hand, the Balkan lynx (Lynx lynx balcanicus) may have disappeared from the country since the 2000s, and the last forty individuals can now be found in Northern Macedonia and Albania.
About insects and arachnids
Multicolored beetles, splendid dragonflies, boisterous cicadas, bees better preserved than in Western Europe... But it's the mosquitoes that are the talk of the town. Of all the animals in Greece, the common mosquito(Culex pipiens) is by far the most dangerous species, since it is the main vector of the West Nile virus, to which the death of 50 people in the country in 2018 is attributed. The spread of the virus is unprecedented, and now (in summer) affects the entire country. Since there is no cure, it's a good idea to take precautions: long, light-colored clothing in the evening, insecticide, mosquito netting on windows. On another, lighter note, Greece is a lepidopterist's delight: butterfly specialists count almost 3,200 different species here. Admittedly, most of these are moths. But some tourists come here just to admire the 235 species of butterflies, 30 of which are endemic. As a result, a number of agencies offer specialized holidays in both the Peloponnese and Macedonia. And several "butterfly valleys" have sprung up in Rhodes (the most famous site), Crete, Paros and Halki. Finally, arachnids pose no particular risk. On the one hand, there's nothing to worry about with local spider bites, and on the other, even if scorpions are numerous, only one of the 32 local species, Mesobuthus gibbosus, has a venom that is dangerous to humans in the event of allergy. However, there have been no notable scorpion-related incidents in Greece in recent years.
