From the beginnings of viticulture to the present day
A gift from the gods
According to mythology, it was Cronos who brought the vine to Crete, and it was Zeus who later offered it to King Minos, leaving Apollo to pass on the instructions and secrets of wine production. What lies behind these myths is that Crete's exceptional geographical location, relief and climate provided all the conditions required for agriculture, and in this case, the cultivation of vines. Indeed, when the island's first inhabitants settled here, they found a hospitable land where the vines they brought with them could take root.
The first traces of vine-growing in Crete providing irrefutable proof of the cultivation of vines were discovered at Myrtos, in the Lassithi region. These were stones uncovered during archaeological excavations and belonged to a proto-Minoan settlement dating back to the 3rd millennium BC. After examining the organic remains - pressed grape berries, plant remains, vine shoots, acid crystals - encrusted on the stones of a wall, the archaeologists attest to the existence of a combustible grape-based product. What's more, there is irrefutable evidence that resin was added to this product. This is an important discovery, since it brings to light the earliest clues to wine-making methods in Greece.
Examination of the remains of a tripod jar dating from 1900-1700 BC, also found at Myrtos, reveals the existence of a resinous wine that was stored either in a smoked oak barrel, or in a barrel to which pieces of smoked oak were added. Archaeologists arrived at this conclusion following the discovery of oak lactones detected in the pot. They even deduced that the taste of this grape-based product resembled that of Scotch whisky.
An ancient wine press discovered at the Fourni site and the ancient vineyard at Vathypetro, near the village of Archanes, demonstrate that wine-making operations were already well advanced by 3500 BC.
Over the years, the cultivation of vines and the production of wine became central to social, economic and religious life, while the knowledge and practices that developed around viticulture continued to accumulate. As vineyards spread across the island, wine production rapidly became extensive. Surplus wine became a renowned export product, playing a decisive role in the wide-ranging exchanges that Crete had maintained with the outside world for centuries.
The Roman period
When Crete became a Roman province, it had to meet the Empire's wine needs. The Romans turned to the Cretans as the vineyards of the Italian peninsula were no longer sufficient to satisfy the growing demand and quench the thirst for wine of the new masters of the imperial world. This once again enabled the Cretans to boast of the quality of their wine.
The island's plains and hills were soon transformed into vast vineyards, while winemaking methods improved with the importation of new grape varieties and Roman know-how. Once again, amphorae overflowing with wine arrived on the Roman peninsula, and commercial success was revitalized. The quality of this wine was deemed remarkable and appreciated for its medicinal properties, too. Many Greek and Latin writers of the time praised Cretan wine as being of unquestionable quality. The mouth of an amphora discovered in Pompeii bears the Latin inscription "CRET EXC", which experts believe means "exceptional Cretan wine".
Venetian domination
The history of wine is repeatedly reflected in important milestones in the history of Crete. Among the highlights was the Venetian occupation, which lasted over 400 years. Under the new rulers, Cretan viticulture reached its apogee. This was due to the production of malvasia, the most famous wine of the time, of which the Venetians kept the monopoly and trade. Around 1415, over 20,000 barrels of wine were exported from the ports of Crete every year, while a century and a half later, exports reached 60,000 barrels. However, experts are still speculating about the origins, production methods, grape varieties and characteristics of this wine so praised by the bon vivants. The fact remains that, today, an aftertaste of this wine can still be detected in a glass of wine from a traditional Cretan vineyard.
The Ottoman period
Under the Ottoman occupation, viticulture in Crete fell into decline. Wine production rarely exceeded the threshold of monasteries or village borders. That said, it was within this restricted production framework that certain practices were developed, some of which have survived to the present day. These include the creation of a remarkable number of small vineyard owners and even amateur winemakers, all of whom take great pride in the "authenticity" of their production methods and the unique quality of the wine they produce.
The 20th century
Crete was liberated from the Ottoman yoke at the end of the 19th century. The new, fairly progressive administration set about reorganizing and modernizing agricultural production. It was in this context that wine production was reborn, and not without success. Indeed, at the international exhibition held in Hania in the early 20th century, 18 labels won awards for their quality.
Cretan wine today
Today, Crete accounts for 20% of Greece's wine production, with an annual output of over 95,000 tonnes. Viticulture and winemaking are systematically concentrated around the many vineyards and producers in the regions of Heraklion, Lassithi and Hania. Of these three departments, Heraklion leads the way with 70% of Cretan production and three AOVDQS labels: Archanes, Peza and Dafnes.
In Hania, organized viticulture and winemaking were slow to develop, as vineyards were deliberately limited to satisfying the limited needs of their owners. However, thanks to this trend, a number of traditional vineyards have been preserved, including marouvas, the traditional wine of Crete. On the other hand, Hania has become the center of two excellent grape varieties: roméiko (red) and muscat spina (white). The department's impressive development is also due to the Rhône varieties Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah (red) and Roussanne (white). Last but not least, there's also an interesting production of kotsifali and mandilaria (reds) and athiri, assyrtiko, malvasia aromatica, vilana and thrapsatheri (whites).
Wines produced in this prefecture benefit from a PGI from Hania or Crete, when the vineyards border the department. There is also a PGI for Kissamos, where the Romeiko variety predominates.
During the Venetian occupation, the Lassithi region was one of the main production centers for Malvasia sweet wine. Today, the largest wine-growing area is located around Sitia. The Sitia PDO includes red and white dry and sweet wines made from the liatiko, mandilaria, vilana and thrapsathiri varieties. The most recent PDO is Malvasia-Sitia. This involves the production of excellent natural sweet white wines, made either from sun-dried grapes or by fortification with the addition of distillate. Authorized varieties are: liatiko, athiri, thrapsathiri, assyrtiko, malvasia di candia aromatica, muscat de spina. Otherwise, producers are entitled to the IGP Lassithi or IGP Crete label.
Le Marouvas: aged like a fine wine
The roots of this wine's history are lost in the Venetian period. The term "marouvas" is not attributed to a certain category of wine. It simply means "aged wine", as it must be kept in 500 to 600-liter oak barrels for at least 2 or 3 years. It's quite common for these barrels to be left unwashed to retain the wine sediment from previous years. As a result, many producers are proud to say that their barrel contains 100-year-old wine. The characteristics of this emblematic wine are a taste of oxidation, a color close to that of a good bourbon, and a high alcohol content.
Today, the great Cretan producers are turning their attention to these old practices and bottling a more elaborate "maruva" that carries the character of oxidation in its most elegant form. But there's no denying that, as you wander through the villages, you can enjoy a few glasses of excellent marouvas in bulk, and get a taste for this wine that bears the seal of Crete's indisputable winemaking identity.
Raki: the water that restores life!
Emblematic, each sip of this brandy contains the taste of Cretan tradition, authenticity and hospitality. A fruity beverage, it carries the perfumes, colors, customs and moods of the island.
The term "raki" derives from the ancient Greek word rax, which means "grape berry" or "grape stalk". Later, in Rome, this term was attributed to Bacchus, who also protected the grape brandy known as Racemite Bacchus! The term "tsikoudia" derives from tsikouda, which in the local dialect refers to the grapes.
Tsikoudia produced according to the rules can only be pure, i.e. it contains no industrial alcohols or colorants and, above all, no added aniseed. As an aperitif or digestive, it's the queen of conviviality and good humor, and can be drunk in a single gulp, accompanied by savory or sweet dishes (to be consumed in moderation, as is only right and proper).
In terms of production, tsikoudia is defined as the product of the distillation of grape marc in discontinuous stills. Under current legislation, the alcohol content must exceed 37.5% vol.
As a rule, homemade tsikoudia is of the highest quality. In recent years, the development of the wine industry in Crete has inevitably led to the production of excellent tsikoudia by larger producers. There are currently around ten labels on the market, all of which really deserve to be tasted on the spot, before you slip them into your luggage!
