Corsica is a mosaic of natural landscapes as multiple as they are contrasted: high altitude lakes fringed with pine trees, mountains, granitic canyons, fine sand creeks bordered by crystalline waters, impenetrable maquis, cliffs of red porphyry and white limestone or ancestral heritage and customs, without forgetting a rich gastronomy in all seasons. Bastia is an open-air museum. As early as the 16th century, religious and conventual buildings emerged in the heart of the steep streets. The superb Place Saint-Nicolas is one of the largest in Europe. The Old Port is an obligatory passage. We then climb up to the Citadel to enjoy a beautiful panorama, especially at sunrise. The museum of Bastia, located on a rocky spur in the Governors' Palace, also offers a spectacular view. But Bastia is above all a starting point towards the Cap Corse. We head north on a winding road with superb and varied landscapes. Between the Marines of Sisco and Macinaggio, the coast is formed of small indentations where the water is magnificent. Park along the road and follow the small paths through the scrub that lead to the sea.
Cap Corse, the pearl of the north
When you arrive in Barcaggio, at the tip of the Cap Corse, you feel like you're at the end of the world. The small port of Centuri is a navy with pastel-coloured houses full of charm. For gourmets, the village has made a speciality of lobster fishing! The return to the south is by the high cornice of the west coast. We pass by Nonza, one of the most beautiful villages of the island, perched on a rocky spur. Its dark grey sandy beach is atypical and the view from the Paoline tower at the top of the village is simply breathtaking. The descent is progressive towards the Gulf of Saint-Florent, a fashionable resort with its important marina. The road then goes through the famous Patrimonio vineyard which benefits from an exceptional environment. The surrounding villages are home to several estates where it is possible to taste the local production.
Alone in the world
The adventure continues westward. The astonishing Agriates desert is lined with magnificent beaches often accessible on foot, by boat from Saint-Florent (Lotu beach), by 4x4 (Saleccia or Ghignu beaches) or by all-terrain vehicle (Malfalco beach). The beach of Ostricoli is classified as a Great Picturesque Site...
We then follow the coast to Île-Rousse to arrive in Calvi. You can admire the Genoese citadel, the cobbled streets, the port... We sit down by the sea to taste excellent fish and seafood. By the tourist circuit of the old villages of Balagne or by the road of the craftsmen one joins the softness of life of the fertile balconies of Balagne. In Lunghignano, a visit to the U Fragnu oil mill is accompanied by a tasting of olive oil made in the old-fashioned way. The region offers its local products: wine (around Calvi), labelled olive oils, crunchy San'Antonio...
We continue along the coast to reach the Scandola reserve and the creeks of Piana. On the natural side, groupers and multicoloured fish are on the programme on the sea bed of this incredible site listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Via the D84, you then reach Corte, the historic centre in the heart of the regional nature park. This university town has preserved many monuments: the Annunciation church with its refined interior decoration and the citadel built in the 15th century with its eagle's nest from which the whole town is dominated. It is home to the Musée de la Corse, a regional anthropology museum. From the Belvedere the view is panoramic over the Restonica and Tavignanu gorges, ideal for hikers. This region of shepherds produces delicious specialities: goat and sheep's cheeses from Venachese, brocciu from Corte, charcuterie from Niolu, chestnut products from Boziu, AOC honey from Ascu, etc. The restaurants also serve trout, Corsican soups, wild boar in sauce...
Ajaccio, the Napoleonic city
Descent towards Ajaccio by the N193. The city is famous for its citadel from where one can admire the purity of its shoreline, one of the most beautiful in the world. But at certain times of the day, travelling by car, whether by the ring road or the seaside, is a real challenge. Parking is also a headache, as places are scarce, especially during the day, and paying. We can always adopt the Ajaccio method: park in double or even triple file at our own risk. Once the car is parked, we "do" the Fesch street, pedestrian and very commercial. There you can visit the Imperial Chapel and the museum of the same name, designed by Cardinal Fesch, uncle of Napoleon I. It has a large collection of 16,000 Italian primitives, including Botticelli's famous Virgin and Child.
It is in the present Bonaparte House Museum that the emperor spent part of his childhood. On the first floor, the apartments are furnished as they were at the time and on the second floor, the history of Corsica is retraced through objects, portraits, etc. The tip of La Parata, a few kilometres west of Ajaccio, offers the majestic backdrop of the Bloodthirsty Islands. These four islets, red or black depending on the weather, are a must, especially at sunset. We leave from the port of Tino Rossi and return after swimming and photo stops by the north shore with the sacred land, the house of Tino Rossi, the marine cemetery, the Greek chapel and the citadel. The AOC wines of Sartène along the wine route and the different olive oil vintages in the numerous mills of the region are to be discovered.
A land of character
You can reach the east coast by going inland via Zonza to admire the Needles of Bavella, a large massif with delirious shapes and sublime scenery. A marked trail goes around the Bavella Pass and another trail allows you to reach the Trou de la Bombe, an impressive 8-metre hole dug by erosion in the mountain, with a void of 500 metres underneath.
Direction Solenzara, a small seaside resort of fine sand rather quiet, then the coast of mother-of-pearl which offers magnificent landscapes to reach Porto-Vecchio in its gulf. The city and its navy are dominated by Genoese fortifications, but the visit is only worthwhile for shopping and nightlife. To the south, one discovers an immense white sandbank cut by rocky points and bordered by umbrella pines, the beaches of Palombaggia and Santa Giulia, two real pearls with their Polynesian lagoon waters, surrounded by pink porphyry. The only drawback in high season is that it is difficult to park there - except very early in the morning - and especially to leave around 6 or 7 pm, as the very narrow road is very congested.
The N198 leads to Bonifacio, a fortified town perched on white limestone cliffs. Its houses, built right on the cliff, enjoy a superb panorama over the mouths of Bonifacio. In the morning you walk along the harbour in a deep cove, in the afternoon you have a gymnastics session going down and up the 187 steps of the King of Aragon's staircase dug into the cliffside, in the evening you have dinner in the narrow streets of the upper town. From Bonifacio we embark for a day to the Lavezzi Islands, natural reserves with exceptional seabeds, but without sandy beaches, no shade, no water points or restaurants... on the way back to Bastia, we take the time to have a look at the Roman remains of Mariana and the lagoon, along the natural reserve of the Biguglia pond, the largest in Corsica.
Smart info
When? All year round, but preferably from May to October to enjoy swimming in the sea or river. In spring and autumn, on the mountain side, you can go hiking, especially on the famous GR20, canyoning on the impetuous rivers. In winter you can ski.
Get there. By plane or by car or by train and then by boat.
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