Ancient temples
The sites of Harappa, Mohenjo-Daro and Lothal in the Indus Valley (present-day Pakistan) are clear evidence of elaborate urban planning. The Harappa civilization, the first great civilization, dates back to 2500 B.C. But the beginnings of Indian architecture date back to the emergence of Buddhism in India, under the reign of Ashoka, and the construction of Buddhist monasteries. Buddhist architecture was predominant for several centuries, and there are few remains of Hindu temples from antiquity. Masterpieces of Buddhist architecture and art include the great stupa of Sanchi. The rock-cut cave temples of Ajanta (Ajanta Caves) are among the most beautiful sites in Maharashtra. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the thirty or so cave monuments are masterpieces of Buddhist art, whose construction began two centuries BC. Looking at these highly expressive paintings and sculptures hanging on the edge of the cliff, you get the feeling that the site is swallowing up its natural surroundings, so much so is it enhanced by the latter.
The different types of architecture can be classified into four periods, corresponding to the main kingdoms that succeeded one another over the centuries.
Pallava (600-900). In Ellora, western India, Hindus added new temples and sculptures to what had once been Buddhist caves, culminating in the majestic Kailâsanâtha (Kailāsa) temple, built during the reign of Krishna I (757-773) in the state of Maharashtra. The temple is part of a vast complex of monolithic caves (Ellora Caves) carved into the face of a high basalt cliff. An architectural feat dedicated to Shiva, this complex of structures is a reproduction of the abode of the supreme Hindu god on Tibet's Mount Kailash. To erect this spectacular Hindu temple, which covers an area of 2 km², 400,000 tonnes of rock were excavated. Near Mumbai, the 6th-century caves of Elephanta and Jogeshvari are home to rock temples also dedicated to Shiva. With the consolidation of Hindu kingdoms, the southern school of Hindu architecture became increasingly abundant. Architecture and religious sculpture became inseparable. The most accomplished Pallava works are the rock-cut temples of Kanchipuram and Mahabalipuram. Dating from the 7th century, the major work on the Mahabalipuram site is Arjuna's Penance, a spectacular bas-relief 27 m long and 9 m high, also known as the Descent of the Ganges. This treasure trove of ancient Indian art, carved on two rocks, depicts various scenes from everyday life as well as episodes from Hindu mythology. In the center, nagas (mythical creatures, half man and half snake) enter a natural crevasse, once filled with water, representing the Ganges. On the left, we discover Arjuna (hero of the Mahabharata), standing on one leg, arms above his head, practicing a long asceticism. After a battle, Arjuna bows before the supreme god. The four-armed Shiva then grants him the Pasupata, his most powerful weapon, which should make him invincible. Other treasures of the ancient city include the Shore Temple, the Pancha Rathas and Vaanirai Kal, Krishna's butter ball Garden, a gigantic spherical granite boulder that defies gravity and magically balances on a small hill. Dating from the same period, the Kailasanathar Temple in Kanchipuram is a cultural complex with a sanctuary tower and a mandapa (columned hall preceding the sanctuary).
Chola (900-1150) : thanks to their many conquests, the Cholas took advantage of their wealth to build sturdy stone temples and beautiful bronze sculptures. But they also built hospitals and public buildings. Sanctuaries feature high pyramidal towers crowned with domed roofs. Sculptures and paintings adorn the walls. Bronze sculptures from this period are the finest in South India. They are delicately modeled in single pieces by artisans using the lost-wax technique, representing Vishnu or Shiva. Shiva is often seen in the revered form of the dance lord Natajara.
Thanjavur (Tanjore), the capital founded by the Chola king Rajaraja I, is inseparable from the Brihadeeswara temple. It was built between 1003 and 1010 under the authority of Rajaraja I, whose empire encompassed southern India and its neighbouring regions, and who demanded a royal temple to reflect his power. Made of granite, its structure is complex and, unlike most temples in the region, this one is painted in color. The wall surrounding the temple is crowned by numerous nandis (sacred bulls) of incredible beauty and meticulous detail. At the entrance stands one of the largest and most admirable nandi statues in the country. Carved from a single rock, it weighs 25 tonnes. The Brihadeeswara temple is dedicated to the god Shiva. The frescoes depict Shiva in 108 different classical Indian dance postures. Brihadeeswara is most famous for its vimana, the tallest in the world at 66 meters. With its square base, it is built entirely of rock and rises like a pyramid above the sanctuary. The gopuram (entrance tower) is crowned by an 80-tonne monolithic granite Kumbam (cornerstone), a testament to the skill of the builders of the time.
Hoysala (1100-1350). The temples built under the Hoysala kings had complicated plans, with numerous protruding elements. The sculptures, mostly in chlorite, are characterized by remarkable precision. Columns are turned or multi-faceted. The temples of the Hoysala period bear witness to the genius of the Hoysalian king-builders. The temples of Belur, Halebid and Somnathpur or Sringeri are wonderful examples. In Belur, the Belur Chennakesava (beautiful Vishnu) temple was erected in 1117 on the orders of King Vishnuvardhan as a symbol of an important victory over the Cholas. The work lasted a century. As with all Hoysala temples, this one rests on a jagati, a star-shaped platform. The courtyard is entered via a gopuram. Dravidian in style, it was added later by the Vijayanagar kings. Two pillars rise up from the courtyard, one of them topped by a finely sculpted Garuda (a half-man, half-bird creature from Hindu mythology). In the center is the main sanctuary, still in use, dedicated to the god Vishnu. Access is via the mandapa (hall), whose turned pillars are remarkably delicate. After the reign of the Hoysalas, at the end of the 13th century, this architectural tradition was interrupted by Muslim raids. Construction of monumental temples resumed later, under the Vijayanagara empire.
Vijayanagara (1350-1565). By the 16th century, virtually all of South India was part of the Vijayanagara empire. Characteristic of this period was the development of temple complexes: concentric series of rectangular enclosure walls with gopuram built in the middle of each side. Among the many Vijayanagara complexes in South India, the most sumptuous are those at Kanchipuram, one of India's seven sacred cities and the only one to unite Shiva and Vishnu, as well as those at Thiruvannamalai and Vellore. One of the most remarkable examples is the Meenakshi Amman temple in Madurai, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Considered a treasure trove of Dravidian art, the Meenakshi Temple is a fascinating Hindu temple. Proudly displaying its baroque exuberance, this temple of great importance to Tamils is dedicated to a goddess, Minakshi, who is actually Parvati, Shiva's wife. The central temple dominates the entire city, and its devotion seems to exist solely to serve him. Admire its multicolored towers, its 12 gigantic gopurams (entrance towers) with their intricate, skilfully sculpted figures, of which the south tower (the tallest) rises to 52 meters. Inside, thousands of pilgrims pray and chat, the Hindu temple being a social as well as a sacred place. Observe the various rituals, including some of the most surprising, such as rubbing one's ears in front of Ganesh. Every evening, a procession takes place: the statue of Shiva leaves his sanctuary and is led to greet his sons Ganesh and Mogen before leaving to join his wife Parvati for the night.
At the same time, Kerala was developing a distinctive architectural style: because of the heavy downpours, temples were covered with rows of terracotta or metal tiles. The Vadakkunathan temple in Thrissur dates from the 12th century. Later temples can be seen at Chengannur, Kaviyum and Vaikom.
The colonial period
Before regaining its independence in 1947, India was a British colony. To assert the Crown's influence, English architects created a new architectural trend, the Indo-Saracenic style, a fusion of the local Mughal style and the Victorian neo-Gothic style. Richly decorated with Orientalist or exotic influences, the buildings are distinguished by various Indian contributions such as chhatri (raised pavilions topped with domes), lobed arches, moucharabiehs and pinnacles. In Chennai (formerly Madras), Bangalore and Mumbai (formerly Bombay), British architecture has left a major imprint, with superb neo-classical and Gothic buildings. The Mumbai Town Hall (1835) is a must-see, as is the University of Mumbai (Bhaurao Patil Marg, 1857). Designed by Gilbert Scott, architect of London's St Pancras Station, Bombay University is a marvel of 15th-century Italian architecture in the heart of India's bustling metropolis. Take a tour of the superb University Library and Convocation Hall. Take in the delicate sculptures of the 80-metre-high Rajabai Clock Tower. Saint Xavier's College, the Telegraph Office, Wilson College and the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus are outstanding examples of this period. A syncretism of European and Indian architecture, the Gateway of India, a monumental Gujarati arch in yellow sandstone, and the sumptuous Indo-Saracenic palace in Mysore are also well worth a visit. The latter's stained-glass windows and mosaics create a fantastic kaleidoscope of colors as they are reflected in the mirrors. Art Deco monuments can be found along the Marine Promenade and to the west of the Oval Maidan. This style was very fashionable for the cinemas created at the time, such as the Metro Cinema, Eros Cinema, Liberty Cinema and Regal Cinema.
In Chennai, the Madras High Court (the country's second oldest Supreme Court, built in 1862), the Victoria Public Hall and the Chennai Victoria Terminus (CST) are among the architectural splendors of the Indo-Saracenic style.
Velha Goa (Old Goa), this former Portuguese capital once competed with Lisbon for opulence and beauty. Today, only a few of Asia's most imposing cathedrals and churches remain from this period of great prosperity. The Basilica Bom Jesus (1605) remains the most perfect example of Baroque in India. The interior is highly decorated in a mosaic-Corinthian architectural style. The church boasts a golden rose, conferred by Pope Pius XII in 1953. The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi and the Catedral Sé de Santa Catarina surprise visitors with their gigantism, and bear witness to the glorious past of Goa, which in the 16th century was nicknamed "the Rome of the East".
At the crossroads of two civilizations, Pondichery, a former French trading post, has retained the old-fashioned charm of its colonial and trading past, which lasted for three centuries. Built on the model of a French town, the streets are perpendicular. It is divided into 2 parts: the white city (French quarter) and the black city (Tamil quarter). Its architecture blends French and Indian influences, with Hindu temples and old churches. In the Indian part of town, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (16th century), with its dazzling white Baroque façade, is well worth a visit. The French Quarter (white city), located between the waterfront and the canal, is a must-see on foot. The street names (François-Martin, Saint-Louis, Victor Simonel, Dumas, Surcouf) echo the memory of the French presence. The statue of Joan of Arc, the war memorial and prestigious French institutions such as the Lycée français international (1826), then known as the Collège royal, the Alliance française (1889), the Institut français de Pondichéry (1955) and the École française d'Extrême-Orient (1964) are powerful symbols of the centuries-old relationship between India and France. The Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar temple, dedicated to Ganesh and predating the French presence, is also worth a look. On your way out, head for the old ashram (the place where the spiritual master dispenses his teachings), that of the great 20th-century Bengali poet and philosopher Sri Aurobindo, who, with his wife nicknamed "the Mother", conceived Auroville (the ideal city).
Auroville. Auroville, an experimental utopian town created by Mirra Alfassa "the Mother" and sponsored by UNESCO, is located some ten kilometers from Pondicherry. Built in 1968 at the height of the hippie movement, Auroville dreams of universal peace, harmony and human unity. The plans for this ideal society were entrusted to Roger Anger, a French architect and great admirer of Le Corbusier. Politics, religion and money were banished from the community. The 3,000 Aurovillians of 65 different nationalities shop, are cared for, educated and eat out for free. In exchange, each member has a community service to perform. At the heart of the town, the Matrimandir (Mother Temple) is the soul of Auroville. This immense golden sphere, 36 metres in diameter and seemingly emerging from the earth, is a space for meditation and symbolizes the birth of a new consciousness.
