From the airport to the city centre South India
Mumbai (Maharashtra). To leave the airport, several prepaid cab stands are located in the corridor just before the exit, the cheapest being the least attractive, the last one on the right of the exit. The former domestic airport is in Santacruz, 26 km north of the city center: it is now part of the international airport, corresponding to Terminal 1. To leave, take the Meru or Easycab cabs, which line up 100 meters to the left of the exit. The wait is a little longer, but the service and cost are incomparable with those of the cool blue cabs that lure travellers right out of the terminal (count around 800 Rs to reach Colaba). If you're a budget traveler with little luggage, an alternative is to take a pre-paid cab to Vile Parle station, then catch a local train to C.S.T. Station or Churchgate.
Ernakulam-Kochi (Kerala). The airport is located in Nedumbassery, about 30 km northeast of Ernakulam. The most efficient way to get to Ernakulam or Fort Kochi is by cab. A pre-paid cab counter is located inside the arrivals hall. Allow Rs. 1,800 to reach Fort Kochi and a 2-hour journey, as traffic in Ernakulam is very heavy, and Rs. 1,000 for Ernakulam. The more adventurous can take an auto-rickshaw. This costs around Rs. 1,000. The journey is much shorter at night, when traffic is lighter.
Chennai (Tamil Nadu). Chennai International Airport (MAA) is located in Tirusulam, 21 km south of the city center. You'll find a pre-paid cab counter in the arrivals hall, after you've collected your luggage.
Bangalore (Karnataka). Kempegowda International Airport is located 40 kilometers north of the city, in Devanahalli. You'll find a pre-paid cab counter at the exit. There are also shuttle buses to the city center, serving several stops. It takes at least an hour to reach the city center.
Arrival by train South India
India's rail network is the second largest in the world, serving virtually every region of the country. Far less expensive than air travel, the train is often the best solution for covering long distances. This is less true for short distances, as only the major cities have well-serviced stations. And don't forget the journey time: you need to reckon with an average speed of 50 km/h, if the train doesn't stop for hours at a station or in open country for no apparent reason. In most cases, it's a matter of waiting for a train coming in the opposite direction. The rail network is not double-tracked everywhere. Travelling at night means you can "save" a day's vacation if you're short of time, especially as the train is quite comfortable. How the network works, the different train categories and the class system may seem confusing at first.
The different comfort classes
There are 5 different classes. Not all trains offer these five different levels of comfort. It depends on the distance travelled and whether they are sleeper or seat trains.
For sleeper trains, the different classes are : 1AC (AC First Class) - 1st class with air-conditioning (closed compartments with 2 or 4 berths); 2AC (AC 2 Tier) -2nd class with air-conditioning (open compartments with 4 berths + 2 on the other side of the gangway) ; 3AC (AC 3 Tier) -3rd class with air-conditioning (open compartments with 6 berths + 2 on the other side of the gangway); Sleeper Class (SL) - identical to 3AC, but without air-conditioning, with simple ceiling fans; General car or Chair car - benches or seats for people traveling without reservations.
For trains with seats, there are three different categories: CC (AC Chair Car), air-conditioned cars with reclining seats; 2S (Second Sitting), non-air-conditioned cars with fans; General car or Chair car, benches or seats for people traveling without a reservation.
If you're traveling by night train, sheets, pillows and blankets are provided from classes 3AC to 1AC. If you don't like promiscuity, you can travel in 2AC or 1AC, which are more expensive but more comfortable and secure. The carriages are locked at night, making it impossible for wine merchants to climb up the gangways. Travelers on a budget will opt for Sleeper class, especially in winter when it's not so hot. Why pay extra for air conditioning, which is useless at this time of year?
The seat you've reserved may already be occupied when you board the train. It's usually someone who hasn't made a reservation and who is taking over a free space. Kindly reclaim your seat. Similarly, the middle berth is often folded down during the day. If you occupy the lower or middle berth and wish to lie down, kindly let the people traveling with you know.
Fares
In India, the train is a really low-cost way of getting around. Fares are proportional to the distance traveled and the class chosen. The longer your journey, the lower the price/km ratio. Expect to pay around Rs 350 for 500 kilometers in sleeper and express class, Rs 880 in 3AC, Rs 1,200 in 2AC and Rs 2,000 in 1AC.
Buying your ticket
There are two distinct ticket offices, depending on whether you wish to book or buy a ticket for immediate departure. For immediate departures, the ticket offices are usually located in the departure hall. You'll often have to queue. In theory, there's a counter reserved for women. If this isn't the case, and you're a woman and don't want to queue with a bunch of men, go up any queue and make your mark. It often takes some elbowing, but it works. A ticket bought without a reservation is only valid on the day it is issued. In some major stations, where traffic is dense, queues can be very long. Don't show up at the last minute. For short distances, there's no need to book in advance. Buy your ticket for the destination at the ticket office and climb into any carriage. The ticket inspector will charge you the difference between an ordinary ticket and your chosen class and assign you a seat.
Booking your ticket
You can book your ticket at the station ticket office, on the Internet or through a local agency. Reservations open 3 months before train departure. Seats on overnight and long-distance trains can sell out very quickly, especially in high season. It's best to book well in advance.
If you go to the ticket office , you'll need to fill in a form indicating your identity, age, train name and number, departure station and arrival station. There's also a handy website where you can get all the train information you need in just a few clicks: www.erail.in. Enter your point of departure and destination, choose the date and the site will show you all the trains with their days of operation. You'll also get the fare (move your mouse over the desired class) and the number of seats remaining (click on the desired class). Stations in major cities sometimes have a booking office for foreign tourists. To get a seat on the tourist quota, you'll need to show your passport. There's no point queuing if you haven't filled in your form. To obtain it, go back up the line and ask for it at the counter, then queue.
You can book online at www.indianrail.gov.in. The procedure is long and complex, but not insurmountable. You will, however, need an Indian telephone number. As when booking at the ticket office, make sure you have all your train details to hand. You'll also need to choose the quota under which you're traveling. Choose General or Tourist. Don't forget to print out your ticket.
If you go through an agency, you won't have to do anything, but you'll pay a bit more. This usually takes about an hour, as the agency will collect your ticket from the station.
Good to know
Waiting list: Indian Railways practices overbooking. Many cancellations occur just a few days or a few hours before departure. You can reserve a ticket by placing yourself on the waiting list. Up to the 25th seat, you take little risk. You can check the status of your reservation on the Indian Railways website (www.indianrail.gov.in). Choose the PNR Status tab and enter your booking reference. You're guaranteed a place on board as soon as your reservation status changes to RAC (Reservation Against Cancellation). The definitive list of reservation status is drawn up two hours before the train's departure. It is displayed in the station. If you are in RAC status, contact the ticket inspector, who will assign you a seat. If you have a confirmed seat, join the car and the seat number obtained. If you don't have a seat, you can get your money back at the station ticket office, before the train departs.
Tatkal tickets: if you haven't been able to book a train in time, or the waiting list is too long, nothing is lost. You can book a Tatkal ticket (which means "immediate" in Hindi), the day before the train's departure (be sure to check the departure time from the original station). Indian Railways keeps a quota of last-minute tickets. Prices are obviously much higher than for a normal ticket. Tatkal tickets are only available from 10 a.m. onwards.
Arrival by boat South India
There are no commercial ships sailing to India from Europe or other continents... However, there are ferries from the Indian mainland to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. There are also ferry services available to the backwaters of Kerala and boats shuttling between different beaches in Goa.
Public transport South India
Bus. The bus is the most efficient, flexible and inexpensive form of public transport, but it's also often the least comfortable and riskiest. Often packed with people commuting to and from work, state buses are launched at blood-curdling speeds, on dangerous and unforgiving roads. Many buses, supposedly Deluxe or Luxury, run by private companies, frequently swallow up roads like these, driving all night long. You may be tempted to save time and money, but safety is never a priority for these buses. What's more, they're impossible to sleep in, due to the noise and uncomfortable seats. If you're tall, the limited space available can be a real problem. After countless truck stops on the side of the road, you're likely to arrive at your destination exhausted and teary-eyed, wondering why you ever put yourself through this hellish journey. However, if you're still interested, you'll find all the information you need in the relevant sections and states of this guide. But don't forget: don't sit in the back of the bus because of the bumpy roads, and never stick your head out of the window as the buses race past each other. For short distances during the day, it's perfectly feasible to opt for this means of transport. Buses run more frequently than trains, and can also be used to reach destinations off the track. At least once, you've got to experience a ride on a rattling bus, with Bollywood pop blaring from the speakers at maximum volume - but only for a short distance!
In some cities, you can choose between regular and Deluxe buses. Some Deluxe or Superdeluxe buses will make you hesitate: with or without air-conditioning, with or without berths? The key question is: with or without music for the duration of the journey? Each city has its own bus stand from which buses leave for the four corners of the state. For standard buses, there's no need to book, as there are often many departures in the course of a day.
Mumbai. In the old city of Bombay, a network of trains acts as a "metro", allowing you to get around quickly and cheaply. There is also an aerial metro in the northern districts, used mainly by workers in these areas.
Metro. Some cities have a metro system. Bangalore's is a very convenient way to visit the city and get from one point to another. The Kochi metro only runs to Ernakulam and is of little use to the average tourist.
Bike, scooters & co South India
Motorcycles. Few people bring their own motorcycle to visit India, but many buy one on the spot to travel more freely. That said, it's best to be an experienced biker, as driving in India is, if not reckless, at least adventurous. If you're cautious, a motorcycle remains a good option for discovering unexplored corners and getting away from the tourist circuits. For a second-hand 350 cm3, expect to pay between Rs 18,000 and Rs 40,000 (€270 to €600), compared with an average of Rs 50,000 for a 500 cm3 (€750). You can also organize your trip through an agency specializing in motorcycle tours. You'll have the chance to ride the famous Royal Enfield.
Scooters. Very practical for getting around town or covering short distances, if and only if you're experienced and careful. It would be very unwise to try your first two-wheeled experience in India. In any case, be vigilant and keep your eyes peeled! Rental companies rarely supply scooters in good condition. Always check the braking system before setting off into the wind. Expect to pay between Rs 250 and Rs 500 per day, depending on the location.
Cycling. Cycling is very pleasant in small towns and rural areas (where it's a pleasant alternative to auto-rickshaws)... but almost suicidal in the big cities, where people drive "on the horn". Bicycles can be rented in hotels, small stores in tourist areas and, in general, in most tourist spots (from Rs. 50 to Rs. 200 per day). Make sure the bike is in good condition and has a lock. Also make sure that the brakes are working.
With a driver South India
Cab. As a rule, cab drivers refuse to put their meters on. So you'll have to negotiate the price before you get in (allow around 10 Rs per kilometer). In fact, cabs are only available in very large cities, so most of the time you'll be dealing with auto-rickshaws.
Auto-rickshaws. You'll notice auto-rickshaws from a distance, thanks to their yellow, green, black or blue bodywork (depending on the city) and their characteristic backfiring. The meter is virtually unknown. Expect to pay Rs 20 for 2 km, but rates vary considerably from city to city. Manycar-rickshaw drivers will try to get you into hotels or stores that pay them commission. They will often tell you that your guesthouse no longer exists or is fully booked: this is systematically false. It's unfortunate to say, but never believe anauto-rickshaw driver... On the other hand, never let the driver take on board one of his friends - it's never a good sign. Bicycle-rickshaws are much more discreet and environmentally friendly and, in general, their brave drivers are much more honest. Count on Rs 10 per kilometer.
Meters. Whether in a cab or an auto-rickshaw, if you're lucky enough to have a meter, you're not out of the woods yet. Because of galloping inflation, drivers can't afford to change their meters every year, so they have a little sheet that allows them to update the amount displayed. Always ask to check it and see how it works before setting off, otherwise you'll soon find yourself with four times the amount shown on the meter!
Jeep-Taxi. This is a very common means of transport in the mountains, and therefore in the Western Ghats. Ten-seater jeeps regularly leave the bus stations when they are full. It's a little more expensive than the bus (20% more on average), but more convenient and much faster.
Tips. A driver or guide who has spent a day at your service will be very grateful for an extra Rs 200.
By car South India
According to statistics, India's roads are among the most dangerous in the world. So renting a car and trying to mingle in the chaos of traffic is simply suicidal. That said, having your own car - and a driver who knows the roads, can read the signs when they're there, and can communicate with other road users - is still the best way to get where you want to go. You go at your own pace, without having to worry about securing seats, making reservations or planning connections, and you can take in the sights and experiences without the slightest anxiety (your driver will be a great help in advising you on customs and prices), as well as venturing into corners off the over-trodden paths that are the often hidden face of the real India. And the luxury of being chauffeured around the country - not necessarily in a luxury car - is ridiculously cheap by European standards. However, it's not advisable to travel too long distances in a day - no more than 4 to 5 hours a day by car in general, even if it's difficult because the distances are so great. Wherever you go, never travel at night.
What kind of car? Standard cars are often Tata or Toyota. The Ambassador, the legendary Indian car, has virtually disappeared from circulation and is no longer produced. In the Western Ghats, you can hire a Jeep, which is reassuring and practical for criss-crossing the mountain roads. Air-conditioned cars are more expensive, but recommended as it's often hot in India, and imagine having to keep the window open with the incessant noise of horns and pollution... They're practically indispensable if you're traveling in summer.
How much will it cost? Prices vary widely. You should generally expect to pay between Rs. 2,500 and Rs. 4,000 (€30-50) per day for gas, driver, car and taxes. Expect to pay more if the car is larger or air-conditioned. Prices charged by travel agencies include everything from fuel and road taxes to parking. However, it is customary to tip the driver towards the end of the trip. It's best to make sure the driver speaks English and knows the roads well. Occasionally, to save money, the driver of a previous tour will wait in town, but he doesn't know the local language and this causes a lot of difficulties.
Turn to a rental company recommended by a tour operator, or to your hotel's rental agency, and chances are you'll have to pay the maximum - but the vehicle and quality of service will probably be top-notch. Another way of doing things is to approach a driver on the street, negotiate a great deal, and spend the rest of your vacation watching him change the tires. It's always a good idea to start by contacting the Municipal Tourism Development Board, no matter which state you're renting from. As their prices are reasonable and fixed, you'll be spared the battle of haggling, as well as the painful certainty of having been ripped off. Travel agencies can also help you find a rental company, but you'll have to pay them a commission.
Accessibility South India
Public transportation and city sidewalks are not at all suitable for people with reduced mobility.
Tourist traps South India
Never get into a cab or auto-rickshaw without first negotiating the fare! Many of them inflate their fares at the sight of tourists.
Smart plan: download the Ola app (the local equivalent of Uber) which allows you to book a ride by car or auto-rickshaw. Even if you don't book on the app, it will give you an accurate idea of the official fare!
