In eastern Canada, Mother Nature has not done things by halves. As it transformed into an estuary and then into a gulf, the mythical St. Lawrence River was surrounded by territories that were out of the norm in terms of size and character, forming Québec maritime. Alongside the Lower St. Lawrence, Gaspé and Magdalen Islands, the largest of these regions follows the coastline for nearly 1,250 km, as far as Blanc-Sablon and the border of the province of Newfoundland and Labrador. The North Shore offers you a great game on either side of Route 138, between giant maritime panoramas and the boreal forest as far as the eye can see. Wild nature with a powerful scent of adventure, Aboriginal culture and memories of New France, flavours full of sea spray and human achievements challenging the sense of measure are on the menu of the whale route, the subject of a road (and boat) trip among the most striking and authentic to live in Quebec.
In Tadoussac, a story of encounters
This odyssey takes off in the hollow of one of the most beautiful bays on the planet, Tadoussac, a jewel of a village nestled at the meeting point between two colossus, the St. Lawrence estuary and the majestic Saguenay fjord. The splendour of the latter can be admired on water, on nautical excursions, as well as from the top of its headlands accessible by the trails of Fjord-du-Saguenay National Park. A place like the 5-Star Farm Holiday Centre, near Sacré-Cœur, is the perfect place to combine nature, adventure and resorts as close as possible to this hero of Quebec's geological heritage. However, moving away from Tadoussac is not an easy task! An opulent environment, a historical cachet represented by the former Chauvin fur trading post or the oldest wooden chapel in Canada, a long tradition of resorts proudly embodied by Hôtel Tadoussac, good restaurants with the flavours of the maritime and boreal regions, a friendly and seaside atmosphere, cultural effervescence when the summer of festivals comes... The Whale Route is barely begun when the North Shore is already trying to get you to cast off. And that's not to mention the so-called giants. Tadoussac and the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park are one of the most famous destinations in the world for learning about and observing marine mammals. In addition to the sea excursions to be enjoyed by boat or Zodiac with Croisières AML - but also the magical observations to be made from the shore -, the Centre d'interprétation des mammifères marins (CIMM) is worth a visit. Thirteen different species inhabit the particularly nourishing waters of the St. Lawrence Estuary, including the blue whale, the largest animal on the planet. You will probably also have the opportunity to see belugas, animals that are the subject of a monitoring and protection plan, as well as seals and many seabirds
The secrets of the sea, the guardians of the land
Presentations made, it is time to really start on the Whale Route. Up to the city of Baie-Comeau, it offers 200 km of panoramic views. On your left: the boreal expanse in all its splendour, a kingdom of tumultuous forests and rivers where wildlife and its representatives (black bears, wolves, moose...) have full rights. On your right: the call of the sea in a debauchery of coastal landscapes alternating huge beaches, lighthouses, villages, bays and steep headlands
In Les Bergeronnes, the Cap-de-Bon-Désir Interpretation and Observation Centre and its lighthouse station provide valuable insight into marine fauna and flora, while ecotourism companies such as Mer et Monde Écotours and Paradis Marin invite you to take a sea kayak trip. At the Escoumins Marine Environment Discovery Centre, you can follow live on a large screen the dives of scientists exploring the amazing underwater biodiversity of the St. Lawrence. No less exciting are the life-size encounters to be experienced on the surface of the water, for example during a whale watching excursion aboard a Zodiac from Croisières Essipit. Light, handy and safe, this type of boat guarantees sensational observations. Essipit, "shellfish river" in the Montagnais language, is the local indigenous community. Present on the North Shore for more than 9,000 years, the Innu excel in the art of sharing their ancestral culture.
Several attractions and activities allow you to put these values into practice on a captivating coastal territory of beauty as well as in the hinterland: accommodation with a view of the sea, whale watching cruises, black bear watching... We will also get to know the Innu people better by meeting Wabush, one of his elders, at Pointe-aux-Outardes Nature Park. An exceptional site for the diversity of its natural heritage - nine distinct ecosystems and more than two hundred bird species to observe - but also for outdoor and nature-based holiday experiences, including accommodation in fabulous giant bird boxes.
A reservoir of "Wow!", literally supernatural
Giant. In the Côte-Nord region, the word comes up again and again, both to designate the panorama that stretches on each side of the road and to describe certain human achievements that defy the imagination. This is evidenced by taking the tangent northward at Baie-Comeau to visit the impressive hydroelectric facilities of Manic-2 and Manic-5, the world's largest multi-arch dam. As the size of the North Shore has the ability to appeal to all the senses, you will also let your taste buds take part in the trip. A simple plate from the sea will do, with its snow crabs, shrimps, scallops, whelks and fish of incomparable freshness. How about a beer from the St-Pancrace microbrewery? The Nordic soil even inspires the making of traditional soaps, as you will see during a visit to the Borale soap factory. Then, as we progress along the Whale Route, the flora changes. Black spruce is taking over the plant kingdom while gradually reducing the size of its trees, offering taiga landscapes and suggesting, even higher up, the edge of the Arctic tundra. The 50th parallel is crossed at Sept-Îles. An exciting city for its history and its mix of Quebec, European and Aboriginal cultures, but also a large archipelago designed for nature lovers: sea excursions, hiking, observation of countless seabirds and, of course, seals and whales..
The enchantment to the end of the road....
Further east, there is Havre-Saint-Pierre and the enchanting Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve. This vast territory of islands and islets is renowned for its limestone monoliths shaped by erosion, its rare flora and seabirds, including the emblematic Atlantic puffin, aka the sea parrot. The abundant life and supernatural scenery of the archipelago make this excursion unforgettable, both on the water and on the hiking trails (24 km), especially since the immersion can be extended by opting for camping, the oTENtik camping tents or the lighthouse of Île aux Parroquets. Meanwhile, offshore, it is a real small wild continent that emerges from the waves. Famous for its impressive white-tailed deer population and adventure film landscapes, such as the canyon and Vauréal Falls, Anticosti Island and its national park call for another escape, a true journey in itself. Back on Route 138, you will now follow the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The horizon seems unlimited. A stop is required in Natashquan, the village of the famous poet Gilles Vigneault, a living monument of Quebec culture. With its fishermen's sheds dating back to the 19th century, the heritage site of Les Galets is a moving testimony to the golden age of cod fishing. Finally, shortly after Kegaska, a sign reads: "138 - End". The 844 km covered since Tadoussac have kept their promise of escape. The adventure is not over yet.
... and beyond!
A wilder region with even more barren landscapes, where asphalt is no longer allowed to be used. The Lower North Shore can only be discovered by the sea, by boarding the M/V Bella Desgagnés. From mid-April to mid-January, this vessel operated by the relay company Nordik transports passengers and cargo each week to serve six isolated villages along the 375 km of coastline of this border territory. To Blanc-Sablon, the easternmost point in Quebec, you will stop at La Romaine, Tête-à-la-Baleine, Saint-Augustin or La Tabatière. Far from everything and close to the essentials, these towns have an irresistible authenticity and charm, like the wooden sidewalks of Harrington Harbour
From the first to the last kilometre, the Whale Route is a great Nordic escape bath to live in the sea spray. A road movie in which the traveller will easily find his place, thanks to the proverbial Quebec hospitality. As if, in the face of the oversized elements, humility and friendship always had the last word
Smart info
When? When? The ideal time to start this road trip is from June to October, when the temperatures allow you to fully enjoy the beaches and outdoor activities. Late summer and early fall are particularly suitable for whale watching. In winter, the region reinvents its landscapes to the delight of motorized adventurers: it has more than 1,600 km of marked snowmobile trails.
Getting there. By plane, several airlines operate regular flights between Europe and Montreal or Quebec City. To reach Tadoussac, it is 480 km from Montreal and 215 km from Quebec City by Route 138. The crossing service between the Charlevoix region and Tadoussac is free of charge. Four ferries connect the north and south shores of the St. Lawrence River
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