Whisky: an art of living that each person conjugates in his own way
Many experts talk about the authenticity of tastes and customs, the right way to bring whisky to your lips, the heresies not to commit and the art of tasting. This can be intimidating, especially when you are a novice in the field. However, on the spot, the reality of distillery and pub visits is quite different. It is anything but disappointing... anything but intimidating, since they willingly explain to you, with sympathy and simplicity, that here, we are not snobs and that you are perfectly free to drink your whisky as you wish. It's up to each person's taste, sensitivity and desire. Of course we will tell you the history of this beverage and of this distillery with passion, of course we will argue about its subtle and unique notes, but we will also leave you free to appreciate it, to your measure, whether you are a neophyte or a master in the matter. Distilleries and pubs welcome you as you are, with the simple desire to share with you the love of this multi-secular beverage.
Journey into the night of time..
The first written traces attesting the manufacture of whisky in Scotland go back to 1494. In an official document, the formula " eight balls of malt to Friar John Cor wherewith to make aquavitae " is quoted, that is to say the quantity necessary to the production of about 1 500 bottles. The request came from a monk in the Fife region (south of Dundee). It is easy to imagine that the first productions were much earlier: some historians speak of an invention in the 10th century by Arab alchemists, while others attribute the distillation of barley to the Egyptians, in 3000 BC. In any case, it is from the 12th century that the practice of distillation of spirits spreads. It is the business of the monks, who speak about " aqua vitae ". The first aqua vitae obtained on a basis of fermented barley is attributed to the Irish monks, who would have made travel, and implanted, their discovery on the Scottish lands. Be careful if you bring up this subject... The question of the Irish or Scottish origins of whisky is a slippery slope!
Aqua vitae in Latin or uisge beatha in Gaelic, uisge becoming uisghi: the word "whisky" appeared by successive phonetic shifts, just as the habits related to whisky also evolved. In the 16th century, it was made with the leftover barley and drunk from the barrel, without any aging. Among its many benefits, it could prevent stammering, gurgling bowels, aid digestion, chase away melancholy, invigorate the spirits and even prevent testicles from falling off (source: The Whiskies of Scotland, R.J.S. MacDowall). Long used as a medicine, it was drunk at any age, "from the cradle to death". And almost after death... For the Highlanders used to provide, before passing away, a sufficient quantity of the miraculous beverage to distribute to their grieving relatives to allow them to drown their sorrows. There is thus a time when funerals turned into great drinking parties... Finally, whisky is so consumed by the Scots that Mark Twain is said to have written: " Whisky for a Scot is as harmless as milk for the rest of mankind."
"Freedom and whisky go hand in hand" (Robert Burns)
The XVIIIth century was a hard period for the whisky makers and many consumers. After the Act of Union which unified Scotland and England, the government tried to control its production: heavy and multiple taxes, restrictions... The Scots continued to distill, but in the clandestine way. Fraud and smuggling had their heyday. Numerous stories ofexcisemen (debt collectors) deceived and trapped are part of the Scottish culture. These great hours of rebellion made whisky go from being a drink to a myth.
It was not until 1824 that the government changed its taxation policy for a system more adapted to the situation. Indeed, this one had become ubiquitous: 8 official distilleries for 400 clandestine ones in Edinburgh alone... In the months and years that followed, distilleries that we still know today were born: Glenlivet in 1824 or Talisker in 1830. Whisky also benefited from a favourable situation to develop: technical progress with the introduction of the column still in 1831 - this invention of Aeneas Coffey is also known as Coffey still - and a helping hand from Mother Nature who, in 1880, destroyed the French productions of cognac and wine, reducing almost to nothing the reserves of the cellars of the aristocrats of the whole world. The production and the craze for Scotch whisky were launched..
How is whisky made?
The best way to get a concrete idea is to visit a distillery. They offer guided tours with final tasting, but also exhibitions or discovery films. Some of them have texts in French that repeat the explanations of the guide or translate the panels. Each distillery has its secrets, which it reveals in part, and its particularities, but, in short, whisky is made as follows.
Malting of the barley: the barley is impregnated with water, placed on a tray until it germinates, dried and then ground.
Mixing barley and water: the ground barley is mixed with hot water, which gives the wort, or the base of the alcohol.
Fermentation: the wort is left in large fermentation tanks and then supplemented with yeast. At this stage, the sugars in the wort turn into alcohol. We obtained the " wash ".
Distillation: the wash goes through two stills, the wash still for the first distillation and the spirit still for the second.
Then, the "heart of malt" is collected, decanted into oak barrels, and put to maturation. The rest is redistilled.
Discover Scotland through its whiskies
Lowland: This is the southernmost area of the country. There are only a few establishments left, but new ones are emerging. Their whiskies are quite sweet, light, dry and fruity (e.g.: Ailsa Bay, Glenkinchie, Bladnoch, Auchentoshan).
Highland: This is the largest and certainly the most diverse region. The single malts vary greatly between the rich, full-bodied flavors of the north; the smoky, powerful, maritime flavors of the west; and the lighter, fruitier flavors of the east and south (e.g. Old Pulteney, Oban, Glenmorangie, Ben Nevis, Aberfeldy...).
Speyside: The Spey valley is by far the lung of the industry, with half of the distilleries. They produce quite smooth, round and elegant whiskies, but very complex with a wide range of aromas (e.g. Glenfiddich, Cardhu, Aberlour, Glenlivet...).
Campbeltown: Once home to more than 30 producers, the American prohibition had a negative impact on their prosperity and today there are only three. Their tastes are briny, slightly smoky, dry and caramelized (e.g.: Glengyle, Glen Scotia, Springbank).
Islay: the small island of Islay has its own appellation for its particular characteristics and its distilleries. The " water of life " is marked by the force of the elements, very powerful and peaty, marked by the earth, the sea and the wind (e.g.: Laphroaig, Bowmore, Coal Ila, Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Bruichladdich...)
Island: Often considered as part of the Highland appellation, the whiskies of the islands are halfway between those of the coast and their neighbors of Islay. Quite smoky, influenced by the sea spray and their rough land, with notes of honey, lemon and heather (e.g.: Highland Park, Scapa, Tobermory, Talisker, Jura...).
Aberdeenshire: These malts are more confidential and deserve to be known. Outside of the traditional tourist circuits, distilleries from the 18th and 19th centuries have joined forces to create "The Secret Malts of Aberdeenshire" project. The visits are more confidential. (e.g. Ardmore, Fettercairn, GlenDronach, Knockdhu, Glenglassaugh, Royal Lochnagar...)
Talk about whiskey the way it should be talked about
Here is a small lexicon to guide you:
Scotch Whisky: it can only be made with water, barley and yeast to obtain the appellation. It must then age for at least three years in Scotland and be at least 40° proof.
Single malt: is said of a whisky which is the product of only one and unique distillery.
Blended: is said of a whisky that is the product of the marriage of several whiskies, coming from several distilleries. If it is not "blended malt", it contains other cereals than barley, hence its often low price. Blended whiskies represent 90% of the market (e.g. Johnnie Walker, J & B, Famous Grouse...).
Grain whisky: malted barley, unmalted barley and various cereals are mixed together, then with water and in a third time with yeast. The distillation is done in a column still.
Peaty: is the adjective used to say that a whisky is smoky. The peat is the peat which is used to give to the malt this so special taste, in particular on the island of Islay.
Dram: is the classic unit to serve a whisky. We ask for a dram of whisky, rarely a glass and even less a pint... The dram corresponds to 2,5 cl. Do you want a double dram? Ask for a " gentleman ".
Don't confuse whisky, whiskey and Bourbon..
These are not spelling or linguistic variants, but rather different spirits. Whisky is Scottish, whiskey is Irish and bourbon is American. When they started to export their products, around 1970, the Irish wanted to clearly mark their difference: that is why they added this "e". Whiskey refers to what is produced and drunk in Ireland, and whisky to what is produced or inspired by Scotland. We will talk about Japanese whisky, because it is made according to the Scottish tradition, and often with Scottish malt, but that is another subject. There is also a difference in the way it is made: three distillations for (Irish) whiskey, two for (Scotch) whisky and one for (American) bourbon. Finally, to be sure that one speaks about Scotch whisky, one specifies "scotch whisky". This mention will be, at the same time, a guarantee of quality!
Smart tips for smart amateurs
Friends of the classic malts friends of the classic malts: As you will see in this guide, several distilleries offer free tours for Friends of the classic malts members. There are 12 in all and it just so happens that membership is completely free. It's a great opportunity to save money while learning about this industry that is so valuable to Scotland. You can find out more online (www.discovering-distilleries.com or www.malts.com) or directly at the partner distilleries.
To buy your whisky: do it in France rather than in Scotland, where prices are much higher and where the exchange rate does not help. Unless you want a bottle you can't find, only do your shopping there, and build up your stock in your supermarket.
Get a ride for your whisky tour: even if they are geographically close and even if they are not abused, to take full advantage of a distillery tour, you have to get organized. You should know that the tourist offices organize whisky tours by bus and that private organizations offer private excursions with driver.
Attend a whisky festival: the Fife Whisky Festival at the beginning of March, the Whisky Colour festival in Dufftown in mid-October, the Dornoch Whisky Festival at the end of October, the National Whisky Festival in Aberdeen in mid-September, the Drambusters Whisky Festival in Dumfries at the end of November..
