Snow-covered peaks, green valleys, jagged and wave-battered coastlines, isolated coves, surf beaches, lunar desert, glowing vineyards, Spain's northern coast offers you the opportunity to discover a multitude of landscapes and atmospheres in a single journey. The one known as Green Spain will seduce you with its less touristic aspect than the rest of the country. Especially in Rioja, a region famous throughout the world for the quality of its wines and which allows you to experience the essence of Spain, from its varied landscapes to its rich history, including divine cuisine.
A little history...
La Rioja is located in the western part of the Ebro Valley. Its name is given to it by the river Oja (the river) which bathes it. Its 5,045 km2 is divided into two parts. La Rioja Alta, mountainous and humid, goes from the Demanda mountain to the Ebro. It is crossed by the Way of Santiago de Compostela, punctuated by monasteries, and produces the best wines. La Rioja Baja is nestled between Aragon, Soria and Navarre. As early as the 10th century, the surrounding regions fought over this small and very rich area. In the 12th century, Navarre lost its rights and La Rioja became part of Castile. Then in the 19th century, the province of Logroño was created, marking its detachment with those of Burgos and Soria. It was after the Spanish democratic transition that La Rioja became totally emancipated and became an autonomous community, despite the demands of neighbouring regions. The visitor will discover for himself this diversity that has aroused all desires. Starting with the famous dinosaur tracks, which run along the Cidacos River, before meeting the mysterious dolmens, the Roman remains, then the medieval era through the path of Santiago de Compostela, its monasteries, castles and fortresses
Wines of Rioja
From the beginning of the 14th century, wine was the main source of wealth in the Haro region. But its flourishing period corresponds to the end of the 19th century. In 1852, the Bordeaux vineyards were attacked by mildew and the harvest was very compromised. The French cellars are looking for wines in Spain that can overcome their difficulties. The railway station that has just been inaugurated makes it possible to transport the wines to the port of Bilbao. Once mildew was defeated, the interest of the French declined, but in 1867 it was phylloxera that made some people miserable (Bordeaux) and others happy (La Rioja). Every year, French people come to taste, select and buy wines. In 1882, a Franco-Spanish trade treaty reduced customs duties and promoted trade. A group of French people settled in Haro and founded cellars according to French operating methods. Haro then developed suddenly and suddenly gained a railway line, electricity, telephone, the opening of the Bank of Spain and the opening of the oenological station (1907). The Rioja registered designation of origin dates back to 1927. It covers three areas: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja, which extend along the Ebro River and straddle the provinces of Alava, Navarre and La Rioja.
This represents a total of 42,000 hectares of vineyards producing more than one and a half million hectolitres. The harvest takes place at the beginning of October.
Start by visiting the Haro Wine Interpretation Centre. Three cellar routes await you: The cheerful vine (west of Logroño, it passes through Abalos, Badarán, Briñas, Cuzcurrita, Haro, Olauri, Sajazarra, San Vicente and Tirgo), the friendly vine (around Logroño, it passes through Agoncillo, Cenicero, El Cortijo Fuenmayor, Logroño, Navarrete, San Asensio, Torremontalbo, Villamediana), the robust vine (east of Logroño, it passes through Alcanadre, Aldeanueva de Ebro, Alfaro, Arnedillo, Ansejo Calahorra, Grávalos, Quel). The cellars (bodegas) are indicated in each village and you will have only the embarrassment of choice!
Logroño, between pilgrimage and tapas bars
On the banks of the Ebro, Logroño, the "village with two bridges" that pilgrims crossed on their way to Santiago de Compostela in the 10th century, is now an important crossroads on the wine route. The capital of the small region of La Rioja, rich producer of the national "red gold", shows all the signs of opulence: modern arteries lined with buildings, rows of offices, banks, insurance companies, a galloping urban development... Next to it, the few alleys of the old town continue their quiet life to the rhythm of the sacrosanct bar tour.
The deep link between Logroño and the Way of Santiago de Compostela is particularly visible around Rúa Vieja, where you can see the pilgrims' hostel and the pilgrims' fountain. The 16th century Santiago church also reflects this link. In the historic centre, you will not miss the Cathedral of Santa María la Redonda, with its imposing Baroque towers. The city also houses interesting examples of civil architecture, such as the Espartero Palace, an 18th century Baroque building that houses the Rioja Museum
The nightlife is Plaza del Mercado for a drink, in the Breton de los Herreros area for trendy cafés, Calle Victoria for a night out. But the most authentic is the "Elephant Trail" which runs through its string of small wine bars along Laurel, San Augustín and Zaporta streets. At aperitif time, at noon or in the evening, meet at the Soriano, the Paganos or the Tortilla bar, each of which offers their own appetizers (mushroom tapas, small meat skewers, tortillas, respectively). Others offer spicy potatoes or stuffed mussels: to be adopted according to the mood of the moment, as the natives do. At the end of this journey, "trunk" of wood guaranteed!
Haro, the wine capital
Haro is located in the northwest of La Rioja, near a loop of the Ebro River that marks the border with Alava. A very friendly small town, it is considered to be the wine capital of the region. The main industry is agri-food: apart from vines, potatoes, sugar beet and wheat are grown there; another important activity is the breeding of sheep and goats. Haro has a pretty little historical centre with welcoming and typical cafés and restaurants. The main street, Virgen de la Vega, offers a pleasant walk; at one end is the wine interpretation centre and a park with the basilica, at the other end is the historic centre.
Tapas bars are concentrated in the area called La Herradura, "the horseshoe", which includes the streets of Santo Tomás and Mayor, the Church Square, the adorable San Martin Square and the Bilibio Square. In the evening, the atmosphere is more likely to be found in the squares of La Paz, Arrabal, de la Cruz and San Bernardo, las Vega Granada and de la Costanilla streets.
A mythical wine battle
Celebrated every year on the occasion of St. Peter's Day, the Battle of Haro Wine is declared a festival of national interest. The participants, dressed in white with a red scarf and equipped with water bottles filled with wine, make a pilgrimage to the cliffs of Bilibio, where a service is celebrated at the hermitage of Saint-Félix. After Mass, the battle begins between the participants, who have until noon to drink wine. They then go to Plaza de la Paz to watch a cow race on the square. An unmissable event that is well worth exploring this charming corner of the Iberian Peninsula.
Smart info
When? When? Overall, the best times to visit are spring and autumn, as the temperatures are very pleasant, as is the relatively small number of tourists. To attend the wine battle, go to Haro on June 29.
Getting there. By plane (via Logroño-Agoncillo airport), train or car, everything is possible.
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