Discover Apulia : The burrata

Winter 1956. In Puglia, the Alta Murgia plateau is hit by heavy snowfalls, blocking the roads and preventing the transport of goods to the city. In his isolated farmhouse near Andria, Lorenzo Bianchino could not bring himself to throw away the cream from the morning milking. So he came up with the idea of storing it in a bag of string cheese. He added some leftover shredded mozzarella and closed it with raffia: the burrata was born. Since then, burrata has conquered international tables; with its melting heart which, when cut, escapes to coat the plate with its smooth cream, burrata sublimates the refined starters of the greatest restaurants. In supermarkets, it now has pride of place in the fresh produce section, alongside its cousin, mozzarella. Since 2016, the burrata produced in Puglia has been awarded a PGI (Indicazione di Origine Protetta).

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Burrata, mozzarella, bufala, stracciatella... one big family!

But what is burrata and what makes it different from mozzarella or stracciatella?

Burrata and mozzarella belong to the same family of string cheeses, a variety of cheeses that does not exist in France. In Italy, on the other hand, the stretched paste technique is used to make many cheeses such as caciocavallo and scamorza. The manufacturing process consists of working the curd in hot water until an elastic paste is obtained that can be stretched into long ribbons. From this dough, mozzarella balls are shaped by hand. To obtain a burrata, the dough is stretched into small discs and filled with stracciatella, a mixture of cream and mozzarella strips, and then closed.

The Burrata di Andria PGI, produced in the whole territory of Puglia, is made exclusively with cow's milk. The buffalo milk burrata(burrata di bufala) is rarer and is marketed by producers in other Italian regions such as Campania where there are many buffalo farms. As for the mozzarella, it can be made with cow's milk or buffalo milk. Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP is the only one to have obtained a protected designation of origin; the most famous ones come from the regions of Caserta and Battipaglia in Campania. Finally, stracciatella, a mixture of cream and strips of mozzarella, can be eaten as is, delicious with a drizzle of olive oil.

The production of Burrata di Andria PGI

Two elements are necessary to obtain a quality burrata: good cow's milk and the know-how of the master cheese maker. The two breeds of cattle raised in Puglia are the Friesian, with its black and white coat, and the Alpine Brown. They are given a natural diet, which will give a better milk. Every morning, the fresh milk from the first milking is brought to the caseificio (cheese factory), poured into vats with whey and heated to 35°C. It coagulates and turns into curd. After a resting phase, the whey is eliminated (it will be used for the curdling process the next day). Then comes the spinning phase: the curd is transferred to a vat of hot water at 95 °C and is worked by the master cheese makers with wooden pallets. Gradually a long elastic band is formed, which is stretched, cut and shaped. Small disks are shaped and filled with stracciatella. Once closed, the burrate are preserved in salted water and put on sale at the caseificio store. It is therefore a product of remarkable freshness that is offered to customers by the renowned cheese dairies of the area.

Where to buy and taste it?

For a gourmet cheese lover, it would be a shame to travel to Puglia without tasting the burrata! Two areas in particular are worth mentioning because of the number and quality of their caseifici : the municipality of Andria and the Itria Valley.

Andria is the cradle of burrata and the headquarters of the consortium that works to protect and promote it. In the city and in the surrounding area there are several caseifici that defend the quality and authenticity of their cheeses and where the know-how and precise gestures of the master cheesemakers have not been replaced by machines. Here is a non-exhaustive list of addresses where you can go with your eyes closed: Caseificio Olanda (caseificioolanda.it), Caseificio Simone (Via Saverio Mercadante, 41), Caseificio Montrone (montrone.net), Caseificio Fratelli Nuzzi (via Montegrappa, 101) and Caseificio Matera (via Bovio, 39). Several restaurants offer local burrata on their menus and, in the Andria region, the Antichi Sapori establishment is a reference for local cuisine.

In the Itria Valley, the town of Martina Franca, known for its baroque architecture, is also a gastronomic destination, with numerous restaurants, a local delicatessen renowned throughout the region and beautiful local products. There are two cheese shops that everyone in the city loves (although everyone will tell you they prefer one or the other): Caseificio Pioggia (pioggiastore.it) and Caseificio La Valle (caseificiolavalle.it). The local burrata is also served as an appetizer in many establishments, often accompanied by capocollo, the local salting. It is on the menu at La Tana andOsteria del Coco Pazzo, while at Caseificio Gentile it is served in a panino for a quick snack.

How to consume it?

Burrata is a fresh cheese that should be eaten as soon as possible, within 24 hours of its production. However, some people prefer to wait a few days to obtain a more consistent texture. It is important to eat burrata at room temperature because cold temperatures cause it to lose its flavors, so be sure to take it out of the fridge at least an hour beforehand. Although burrata is produced all year round, spring burrata is considered the best because the young grass shoots grazed by the cows give a milk that is fattier and richer in taste.

Purists will tell you that to fully appreciate the sweet and subtle flavor of burrata, it should be eaten simply, sprinkled with a little pepper and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. But the Italians - and the restaurant owners - allow themselves all sorts of fantasies: put it on a pizza just out of the wood-fired oven, with pasta or in risotto. Some even cook it as a dessert! Burrata goes wonderfully well with a slice of raw ham, a light tomato sauce or a few anchovy fillets.

Experiences to live

Several local agencies organize wine and food tours with tasting of burrata and other local products. Some even offer a visit to the laboratory of an artisanal cheese factory, where you can marvel at the spectacle of master cheese makers working with spun cheese and shaping the exquisite cheeses.

The Terra che Vive agency (terrachevive.com), based in Martina Franca, specializes in wine and food tourism and offers a variety of a la carte and personalized packages, including courses on how to make your own burrata.

In Alberobello, Charming Tours (charmingtours.it) organizes several itineraries that combine cultural visits and stops in masserie to watch the production of cheese.

The Turisti in Puglia agency (turistinpuglia.it), located in Andria, proposes, among a wide range of offers and experiences, a visit to a masseria in Alta Murgia where artisanal burrata is produced.

All these experiences are always accompanied by a tasting of the burrata made before your eyes.

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