Da noi in montagna : gourmet hike in the Alps
The mountains cover 42.5% of Friuli-Venezia Giulia's territory, revealing to walkers grandiose landscapes of wild beauty and villages of typical architecture, nestled in valleys or stretching across sunny high plateaus. Rural communities here perpetuate a culinary savoir-faire that draws on the benefits of an unspoilt and generous natural environment. Cheeses, cured meats and beers account for a large proportion of artisanal production. In Sauris, where the butchery tradition is renowned, prosciutto di Sauris has been awarded the PGI designation. Zahre Beer, a craft beer, is also produced here. Pitina IGP, a smoked meatball, originates from the Tramonti di Sopra region. The malghe, high altitude dairy farms, produce delicious cow's milk cheeses such as Montasio DOP and smoked ricotta, which can be purchased locally. Malga Montasio even has its own restaurant. Everywhere, agritourisms, restaurants and some refuges promote the flavors of the land in a mountain cuisine tinged with multiple influences.
Da noi sui colli: from the great wines of Friuli to San Daniele ham
To the south-east of the Friulian mountains lies a hilly area covered with vineyards that produce some of Italy's finest white wines, as well as excellent reds. It boasts two major DOC zones: Collio Goriziano DOC and Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC. The village of Cormons is the gateway to Collio, with theEnoteca di Cormons in its main square, where you can discover the wines of some 30 estates. In the hamlets that dot the Slovenian border, you can alternate tastings at the producers', walks through the vineyards and culinary experiences in the restaurants and agriturisms, which serve local specialties such as prosciutto d'Osvaldo, a smoked ham, and plum gnocchi.
The wines of the Colli Orientali del Friuli, from Corno di Rosazzo, are also of the highest quality. One company,Acetaia Midolini, has taken advantage of the vineyards to develop another area of expertise: balsamic vinegar, made from cooked grape must.
Further west, the hilltop village of San Daniele del Friuli stands out against the crown of the Carnic Alps. Its cured ham, prosciutto di San Daniele DOP, is the flagship of Friulian gastronomy. It is produced and sold in the town's prosciuttifici and served in all the town's restaurants. Some producers also organize guided tours of their workshops and maturing rooms(Prosciuttificio Prolongo). San Daniele also has another speciality: smoked trout.
Da noi sul fiume: following the meanders of the river
The river is the Tagliamento, which rises in the Alps and flows into the Adriatic after drawing the border with Veneto. This part of the province of Pordenone has medieval villages and artistic towns with streets lined with porticos and painted facades. The soils, mainly stony and gravelly, have been formed over the millennia by deposits of materials from the river. These gravels accumulate heat during the day and release it at night, creating ideal conditions for the cultivation of vines and the ripening of grapes: the Friuli Grave forms the largest DOC area in the region. Several wineries open their doors for visits and tastings(Borgo delle Oche).
Da noi in pianura: Udine and the delights of the plain
The Friulian plain stretches around Udine, the province's capital, with its many good places to discover typical Friulian gastronomy. Specialties include musetto con brovada, frico and potato gnocchi. Several traditional agri-food products have been awarded a PGI or slow food guarantee: white asparagus from Tavagnacco, pestat from Fagagna (a pesto made with bacon and herbs), polenta, and even goose meat specialties from Chiopris-Viscone (salami, cured ham, smoked bacon...). Quality products served on the tables of Udine, Spilimbergo, Palmanova and the small towns of the plain.
Da noi sul Carso: rural traditions on the Slovenian border
The Carso or Karst is a high limestone plateau overlooking Trieste and its gulf. Its steep, arid soil has been tamed by man, who has made the most of it to grow fruit, vegetables, vines and olives. A trip to the Val Rosandra nature reserve is the perfect way to discover Tergeste DOP extra virgin olive oil. Vines have also colonized the hillsides of the Carso, and the estates produce Terrano red wines and Vitovska and Malvasia whites. The Carso is also a breeding ground for cow's and sheep's milk cheeses, such as Jamar, matured in karstic caves. In this region, osmize, small farms, open their doors and offer tastings of local produce. Trieste's restaurants also showcase local specialities, with the added bonus of opening up to the Adriatic coast and a cuisine of land and sea enriched by the many influences of this cosmopolitan city.
Da noi in Riviera: fish and seafood from the Adriatic
The Friulian Riviera offers beautiful sandy beaches in Lignano Sabbiadoro and Grado, as well as the still and mysterious beauty of its lagoons, conservatories of a rich birdlife. You can discover it on foot or by bike, along well-maintained bicycle paths and wooden footbridges dotted with observatories, but also at the tables of restaurants that offer specialties based on freshly caught fish and shellfish. In Grado and Marano Lagunare they serve boreto, a traditional dish made of several fish simmered in a broth. The hinterland is made up of the bassa pianura friulana (the low plain) and the pearl of it is Aquileia, listed by Unesco for its Roman remains and its paleochristian basilica with a floor entirely covered in mosaics. Its territory has some wine estates and the vineyards serve as a backdrop to the ruins and monuments.
Organize your itinerary
The www.tastefvg.it website lists, for each of the six experiences, numerous establishments showcasing local produce and traditional Friulian cuisine. You can search by locality and type of establishment, and obtain opening hours. A printed booklet is available from all the region's tourist offices. You can also pick up a small passport containing a selection of wineries and breweries. For each visit with free tasting, you receive a stamp. Once you've obtained three, you can visit one of the tourist offices to receive a free bottle of wine.
