The three roads of the Verbano-Cusio-Ossola province
La Strada Cascata del Toce - Riale - Passo San Giacomo. If the Alps are your terrain of choice, or if you've always dreamed of breathing the pure mountain air in a way other than on skis, the province of Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, along the Swiss border, offers three beautiful historic routes to explore, including the Strada Cascata del Toce - Riale - Passo San Giacomo. Almost 11 km long, this road was created in 1929 when the Castel and Toggia lake dams were built, and is in itself a splendid work of art. It's likely that you'll be taking plenty of photo breaks along the way!
Despite its 625-meter vertical drop, it's not particularly difficult, and is ideal for a family outing by bike (allow two hours) or on foot (around three and a half hours). At the start, at an altitude of 1,682 m, you can admire the Toce waterfall, the highest in Europe (143 m). It is often considered the most beautiful waterfall in the Alps. At its summit, an observation point offers an exceptional panorama. Summer is the ideal season to admire its impressive flow, as the waters, used for hydroelectric purposes, are "released" every weekend from June to September.
Once you've contemplated this awe-inspiring and invigorating spectacle, you can now take the path that leads you to the Swiss border. Take a deep breath and enjoy this rejuvenating and majestic setting! The route climbs to an altitude of 2,307 metres, where you arrive at Passo San Giacomo.
You can also take advantage of your hike to discover Walser culture at the Casa Forte in the hamlet of Ponte, in the commune of Formazza.
The Walser are a people originally from Switzerland (or more precisely, the Valais) who settled in the remotest and highest parts of the Alps in the Middle Ages. In exchange for their work in domesticating, cultivating and occupying these relatively ungrateful territories, they were granted important rights and, above all, freedom by the local lords. Walser architecture is characterized by the use of a special technique called blockbau, in which wooden beams are interlocked without the need for any other material to join them. The result is a very special kind of house, incredibly resistant to the ravages of time. The Casa Forte di Formazza, open all summer and housed in a 16th-century building, showcases all the particularities of this Walser community.
La Strada Colle del Mud. If you're interested in this aspect of Alpine culture, the province of Vercelli offers a number of Walser-specific routes to follow on foot, including visits to the typical villages that border the Valle d'Aosta, which is also home to numerous Walser centers. The Strada Colle del Mud, for example, takes in Alagna Valsesia and Rima, two charming villages with a wealth of Walser information.
The Strada Valle d'Otro is dotted with chapels and votive shrines, and takes in six ancient Walser villages in a setting that's both broad and picturesque. And the Strada Colle del Turlo offers unforgettable views of the valley and the glaciers of Monte Rosa. It's hard to choose, as all these routes offer a fascinating insight into the mountains, their people and their history. And for total delight, the little village of Rassa, typical of Walser architecture, is certainly the most photogenic, with its pretty bridge! A real movie set!
Tracciolino and Panoramica Zegna (bike, car, motorcycle)
To cross the spectacular balcony of the Biella mountains, don't miss the historic 63 km Tracciolino and Panoramica Zegna itinerary. This route, rich in wonderful landscapes and panoramic views, is a perfect blend of nature, culture and tradition for cycling.
Most of theroute can also be covered by car. Along the way, not-to-be-missed points of interest include the Santuario di Graglia, the village of Bagneri and the Trappist monastery of Sordevolo, the sanctuary of Sacro Monte di Oropa (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the Galleria di Rosazza in the municipality of the same name (considered one of Italy's most beautiful villages), the Sanctuary of San Giovanni d'Andorno, the Biellese eco-museum, which includes the Oasi Zegna nature reserve, the ski resort of Bielmonte, and the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora della Brughiera.
Another historic route in the province of Biella is just as fascinating in its storytelling, in addition to the wonderful landscapes it allows you to contemplate on a beautiful hike. The Rosazza - Colle della Gragliasca trail, just over 7 km long, was originally used by local women, nicknamed siunere because they cut the grass(siun) from the steep mountain slopes with a sickle and piled large quantities into huge sacks for transport and storage, to make hay for their livestock.
This back-breaking work was not their only activity: they also occasionally transported slate and wood, and maintained the trails. At the end of the 19th century, the path was transformed into a mule track. It links the upper Cervo valley in Piedmont with the Gressoney valley in Valle d'Aosta.
Along the way, as well as paying homage to these courageous women, essential to the local economy, you can admire rock engravings in shelters carved into the rock. At the start of the hike, you can visit Rosazza, one of Italy's Most Beautiful Villages, with its slightly esoteric atmosphere. The local man, Federico Rosazza, was a Freemason and covered the buildings with mysterious symbols... It's up to you to discover them!
Rosazza is a charming little town where you'll find everything you need for your hike (large parking lot, water fountains, café...). Despite the steep gradient (around 1,300 m!), the route is not very difficult. But you'll need a good four hours to enjoy it to the full, and at a leisurely pace. The arrival at Colle della Gragliasca, at an altitude of 2,205 m, will reward you for your efforts: the panorama is breathtaking!
The province of Turin is the one with the most routes included in the 2021 regional law - almost half! Don't hesitate to get your own guidebooks and maps to help you make your choice, which can be quite a daunting one, given the rich and varied choice on offer.
Here are two beautiful excursions, close to the French border, of fairly sustained difficulty, to be done by bike for good calves, or by motorcycle for hard-core bikers.
The Strada dell'Assietta is open to motorized traffic from June1 to October 31. We advise cyclists to plan their journey on Wednesdays and Saturdays in July and August, as the road is closed to motor vehicles on these days. Over 30 km long, this route is perfect for experienced cyclists, not only because it's difficult and challenging, but also because it's totally mythical: it's the most famous military road in the Alps and the highest in Europe, culminating at almost 2,550 m at Testa dell'Assietta. Winding all the way above 2,000 m, it's a dream come true for many! In fact, you're sure to find plenty of company along the way! It was the setting for the battle of July 19, 1747, won by the outnumbered Savoyard troops against the French, who were attempting to conquer Piedmont. Every year, this victory is commemorated with a costumed re-enactment. Along the way, numerous fortresses dot the high-altitude landscape.
Even higher into the sky, the Strada Bardonecchia - Colle del Sommeiller is the highest motorable road in Europe. With a length of 30 km, it is entirely cycleable, even if the surface is a little worn in some places. The route starts at an altitude of 1,263 metres and climbs for around 1,700 metres, until finally reaching 3,000 metres at the border between Italy and France! In other words, this itinerary is only suitable for particularly well-trained athletes with top-level equipment! And beware of weather conditions, which are particularly changeable in the high mountains: there's no shelter in the last part of the route! Along the way, you'll be able to admire the Bramafam fort, a spectacular late 19th-century construction. Finally, note that on the second Sunday in July, an international motorcycle rally is held on this route, so the road is not accessible to private individuals not registered for the rally. Thursday, the day on which motorized traffic is closed, is particularly recommended for brave cyclists wishing to tackle this monument!
The province of Cuneo is not to be outdone, with some twenty historic routes, including the splendid Alta Via del Sale. It can be explored on foot, by bike or by motorcycle (note that motor vehicles are subject to a toll here), depending on your preferences and the sections of this long route that linked the forts of the Alpine defense system between the 18th century and the Second World War. Beware: the route is demanding and requires good physical preparation. It winds at high altitude, between 1,800 and 2,100 meters, along the French-Italian border. From June to October, with days reserved for non-motorized sports enthusiasts, you can discover this "high salt road" in several stages, and return again and again. The Limone - Monesi route, for example, is an extraordinary itinerary: the entirely dirt track is 39 km long and passes through protected areas with a rich fauna and fascinating flora, such as the sublime and dense Bosco delle Navette, which occupies more than a thousand hectares and provides refuge, among other things, for charming black grouse. This is one of the most beautiful larch forests in the Alps. Its name comes from the fact that its trees have long been used to build boats. Yes, Liguria and impetuous Genoa are not far away. This unspoilt territory - and to be preserved, remember to respect the environment when hiking! - is now part of the Marguarais Natural Park.
The Ciclovia del Duca is another route that takes advantage of the exceptional setting of the Marguareis Natural Park. This itinerary, which links up with the Alta Via del Sale, allows you to hike between the Carthusian monastery of Val di Pesio (don't miss the chance to admire its vast buildings from afar: the monastery is still occupied today) and Colle della Boaria, and can be covered on foot, by bike or even... on horseback! As with the other roads in the province of Cuneo, this is a former military route, and you'll come across structures such as bunkers and fortifications along the way. The entire route is over 60 km long, but of course it can be cut to size! Along the Pesio Valley, a realm of green meadows and chestnut trees, there are numerous accommodation and catering facilities, as well as bike rental services. A number of cycle tour operators offer accompaniment and guiding services, which are always useful if you feel like letting yourself go without worrying about which way to go! And you'll have plenty of time to contemplate all the landscapes and ecosystems of this part of the Southern Alps: pastures, fir and conifer forests, karst rocks, waterfalls, farms and summer cottages... You'll be able to capture hundreds of dream images.
Still in the province of Cuneo, the Altopiano della Gardetta offers a 27 km route on a completely dirt track; like the previous one, it is closed to motorized traffic. This high plateau is the ideal setting for a hike or bike ride in a majestic setting of undeniable heritage value: many fossils and traces of prehistoric animals have been discovered here. Once a military road, used extensively during the famous clashes between the Piedmontese and the French in the 18th century, it is now a favourite with sports enthusiasts in search of fresh air and total relaxation. A remnant of this military use is to be found in the refuge, a cleverly converted 19th-century barracks. Despite its length if you're on foot (book the whole day!), this historic route is not very difficult, and allows you to navigate happily between 2,300 and 2,450 meters above sea level. For mountain bike, cyclo-cross and gravel enthusiasts, it's the ideal route! The highlight is certainly the splendid view of the legendary Rocca la Meja, with its majestic silhouette that looks like something out of an adventure film!
In short, the Gardetta high plateau, as a junction between different valleys and therefore today's cycle paths, is something of a cyclist's paradise! On a practical level, there are parking lots, restaurants and accommodation on site. In summer and on certain weekends, there's even a shuttle service linking Grange Salvest to the Gardetta plateau.
Last but not least, the province of Alessandria also offers its historic routes! Here, we leave the Alps to travel through the Piedmontese Apennines. The Cammino Piemonte Sud allows you to discover, on foot or by bike, various trails linking protected areas - natural parks, nature reserves - and Natura 2000 sites. It includes salt routes, Resistance trails, pilgrimage paths, mule paths, nature trails, agro-forestry-pastoral trails in environments rich in flora and fauna, with some twenty tourist hiking stages for a total of 240 km. Stage 11, for example, is just over 11 km long (allow four to five hours' walking time) and arrives at Capanne di Marcarolo, where you'll discover charming little chapels and churches. In Capanne, for example, you can visit the 17th-century parish church of Santa Croce and admire the statue of Sant'Isidoro, the patron saint of farmers. Along the way, you'll also come across century-old chestnut trees, evidence of the subsistence farming that took place here between the 15th and 19th centuries, as well as numerous refuges, and you can take a break at the equipped Baita del Rio Gorzente area, which features a bar serving craft beers, a restaurant showcasing local produce and a campsite. Stage 12 takes you from Capanne di Marcarolo to Belforte Monferrato in 22 km. It can be shortened by stopping at the villages of Casaleggio Boiro or Lerma. Don't forget to stock up on drinking water at the start, as there are no supplies along the way. On your journey, you'll also pass by former metal mining areas, mainly for gold and iron. The mines can be visited by prior arrangement. If you choose to stop in the village of Lerma, be sure to visit the church of San Giovanni Battista, and if you continue towards Belforte Monferrato, you'll pass through a splendid mixed forest of oak, beech and chestnut.
But all these superb itineraries, which allow you to both lift your spirit and strengthen your body, while creating unforgettable memories on your own or accompanied by your loved ones, are just a few of the countless historic Piedmontese routes finally open to tourism! So get your gear ready, set a date in your diary, and get your family and friends on board for a unique and unforgettable experience in Piedmont!
Safety reminder
The mountains, a fascinating and majestic environment, are a world apart, quite changeable, and therefore potentially risky. It's always a good idea to find out about the weather conditions before you set off, and to bring plenty of water and the right equipment (including a hat and good hiking boots). The Piedmont tourist office and other local offices can also provide you with the contact details of mountain guides, and give you invaluable advice on how to make the most of the mountains, in complete safety!
