A rich marine ecosystem
Present a few meters from the shore of the Cyclades since the era of the dinosaurs, the Mediterranean seagrass (Posidoniaoceanica) is not an algae, but a marine flowering plant that is the keystone of a unique ecosystem. Although it is less well known than the olive tree, it is nevertheless the other emblematic plant of the Mediterranean. Made up of green clumps covering the sand, it forms vast underwater meadows. These "Posidonia meadows" not only play a decisive role in carbon sequestration (more important than the Amazonian forest), but they also provide spawning grounds for numerous species of fish and crustaceans. This is particularly the case in the northern Cyclades, where posidonia thrives from Serifos to Andros, with, at the other end of the food chain, the presence of a particularly rare and threatened carnivorous species: the Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus). With around 600 individuals spread between Greece and Turkey, this mammal, which disappeared from Corsica in the 1970s, has mainly found refuge on the coasts of Serifos, Syros, Andros and, above all, on the uninhabited island of Gyaros (17 km2). The latter, located north of Syros, is home to the largest colony of these seals, which can weigh up to 300 kg. Gyaros is also the largest of the 35 areas classified as Natura 2000 in the Cyclades (26,000 ha).
Very rare dolphins and whales
The warm waters of the eastern Mediterranean are the playground of cetaceans. However, although there are 5 species of dolphins and 7 species of whales in Greece, they do not visit the Cyclades. The common dolphin (Delphinus delphis) or the fin whale (Balaenoptera physalus) prefer deep waters and are abundant in almost all the other Greek archipelagos. They are concentrated along the "Hellenic Trough": this fault, the deepest in the Mediterranean, descends to more than 5,000 m below sea level and connects the Ionian Islands to the Dodecanese via southern Crete. However, the most common cetacean in Greece, the blue and white dolphin (Stenella coeruleoalba), is sometimes found in the Cyclades. It is more likely to be found offshore, in the north of the archipelago, near the Saronic Islands, and in the south, between Paros and Amorgos. For this, it is necessary to place oneself at the bow of the boat, since it likes to play with the waves (but fears the swirls at the back of the boats) and can accompany ferries and sailing boats for several minutes.
From the sea to the plate
Here we list the local seafood products that are most often found on restaurant menus, with their scientific names in brackets, as well as in Greek and English. The star of the Cyclades is of course the octopus, caught in the rocky coves and put out to dry in the sun in front of every psarotaverna ("fish tavern"). It is the common octopus(Octopus vulgaris, chtapodi, octopus), prepared in vinegar, grilled or in sauce. Other popular cephalopods are cuttlefish(Sepiida, soupia, cuttlefish) and squid(Doryteuthis, kalamari, squid). The latter is offered fried in pieces, whole in the pan or stuffed with feta cheese. But beware, it is often frozen and can come from very far away like the Patagonian squid(Doryteuthis gahi). As for local fish, the rock mullet(Mullus surmuletus, koutsomoura, striped red mullet), the mud mullet(Mullus barbatus, barbouni, red mullet), the brown scorpion fish(Scorpaena porcus, mavroskorpios, scorpion fish), sea bream(Sparus aurata, tsipoura, silver seabream) and toothfish(Dentex dentex, sinagrida, red snapper) are usually served grilled. Anchovies(Engraulis encrasicolus, gavros, anchovy) are offered in small fry. Mediterranean bluefin tuna(Thunnus thynnus, erythros tonos, bluefin tuna), threatened with extinction, and swordfish(Xiphias gladius, xifias, swordfish) are rarer. On the other hand, the red lobster(Palinurus elephas) is frequently found, whose names in Greek(astakos) and English(lobster) are confused with that of the lobster, which is almost non-existent here.
Overfishing and invasive species
With 800,000 visitors for 120,000 inhabitants in 2019 in the Cyclades, tourism is taking a heavy toll on the environment. This is particularly true at sea, where natural fish stocks have declined sharply as tourist numbers have doubled since 2010. As a result, fishermen are forced to go further afield to fill their nets, and restaurants are increasingly sourcing from outside the archipelago. Fish such as gilthead and gilthead bream now come almost exclusively from farms in the Peloponnese and Evia. The unexpected effect of this crisis is that, since 2020, Greek fish farming has taken first place in the EU and third place worldwide. This means that wild fish from the Cyclades has become rare and very expensive. Another consequence: since the 2010s, invasive species from the Indian Ocean via the Suez Canal have proliferated, threatening the ecosystem in the south of the archipelago, such as the truncated-tailed rabbitfish (Siganus luridus) and the magnificent but dangerous flying scorpionfish (Pterois volitans). In Santorini and Amorgos, a campaign has been launched to encourage the fishing and consumption of these invasive species.
Garrigue and scrubland
On the land, Greece is Europe's champion of biodiversity. Relative to its size, it is the country with the highest number of plant species: around 6,600. That's slightly more than in mainland France, which is four times larger. The Cyclades alone contain 1,768 plant species, 161 of which are endemic, i.e. found only in the archipelago. And yet, with their semi-arid climate (five months without rain a year), the Cyclades are dominated by scrubland and maquis landscapes embellished with oleander, olive trees (domestic and wild) and fig trees. The yellow-flowered spiny calycotome (Calycotome villosa ), the mastic tree (Pistacia lentiscus), the scrub oak(Quercus coccifera), which can reach 9 m in height, and the Phoenician juniper (Juniperus phoenicea) make up the bushes of the maquis. In more arid areas, the garrigue is made up of head thyme (Thymus capitatus) with its mauve flowers in summer, thorny broom(Genista acanthoclada), typical of Greece and the Middle East (yellow flowers), various types of rockrose (Cistus) and thorny burnet (Sarcopoterium spinosum) with its interlacing prickles and small red flowers (in spring).
Green Andros and Naxos
The two largest islands in this rocky archipelago are exceptions: Naxos and Andros have the greenest and most varied landscapes in the Cyclades. After the desert island of Gyaros, they also have the largest areas classified as Natura 2000: 20,000 ha spread over two zones on Naxos and two other zones on Andros, totalling 29,000 ha. Close to Evia and the mainland, and benefiting from abundant rainfall, Andros stands out with trees absent from the rest of the archipelago: black alder (Alnus glutinosa), chestnut (Castanea sativa), white willow (Salix alba) and white poplar (Populus alba). As for the largest and most mountainous island, Naxos, it is the only one to be self-sufficient in water. Its flora is particularly varied, with around a thousand species, fifty of which are found only here. These include the 12 flowers endemic to the archipelago (ceriste, asperula, campanula and snowdrop) and 4 other flowers found only on the island, such as Naxos velar (Erysimum naxense) and Naxos comfrey (Symphytum naxicola), which grow on the slopes of Mount Zas, the highest point in the Cyclades (1,004 m altitude).
Wetlands and migratory birds
The Cyclades are one of the main stops for migratory birds arriving from Asia and Africa to Europe in spring. The archipelago has some wetlands that are as unknown as they are precious. This is especially the case in Naxos and Andros where marshes, lakes and swamps are important nesting places for birds. These wetlands, together with smaller ones in Milos, Serifos, Paros and Antiparos, attract birds of prey such as Eleonora's falcon (Falco eleonorae), Bonelli's eagle (Aquila fasciata) and the peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus), but also seabirds such as the crested cormorant (Phalacrocorax aristotelis), the grey shearwater (Calonectris borealis) and the rarer Mediterranean shearwater(Puffinus yelkouan). Once again, Naxos comes out on top, hosting the largest number of birds in the archipelago: 278 species out of 442 referenced in the whole of Greece.
Frogs, lizards and snakes
The wetlands and small forests of the Cyclades are home to several species of amphibians, including in the south, on Amorgos, where a small toad, the yellow-bellied sounder (Bombina variegata), survives in mud puddles in midsummer. But the climate is especially favorable to reptiles, with many species of snake. These are generally very discreet, and only two types of viper are dangerous to humans (see below). You're more likely to come across the "painted dragon": this is the striated agama (Stellagama stellio), a large, stocky, spiny lizard measuring 30 cm in length, typical of the eastern Mediterranean, which makes its home right on the beaches. Also unmissable: the large and magnificent Balkan green lizard (Lacerta trilineata). Many lizards and geckos can be found throughout the islands. But one endemic species, up to 20 cm long, is found only on Milos and Kimolos: the Milos wall lizard (Podarcis milensis).
The cat, king of the mammals
Although Greece had its own species of lions until the first century AD, today it is another feline that dominates the country: the Aegean cat. Begging on tavern terraces and adorning postcards, it is a recently identified sub-category of the domestic cat. Native to the Cyclades, it is distinguished by its ability to fish, by its coat of at least two colours, and by its eyes which are almost always green. On the other hand, there are few other species of land mammals in the Cyclades. Besides rabbits, hares and hedgehogs, there are only four kinds of small rodents, including the lerotine (Dryomys nitedula), a tiny Asian cousin of the European dormouse that lives mainly in the forests of Andros. The species of bats are still poorly known, but there are 23 of them, among which the Great Rhinolophus (Rhinolophus ferrumequinum) and the Savi's Vesper (Pipistrellus savii), which have been studied mainly in Syros. Among the predators, there are only two wild species. First of all the weasel (Martes foina), present in Andros, Naxos, Syros, Serifos, Kithnos and Santorini. Very discreet, it hunts at night but likes to live near people. There is also the badger (Meles meles), a mustelid with a white and black muzzle that can weigh up to 17 kg. It is rare and is found almost only on Tinos, Andros and Sifnos. As for the domesticated species, shaped by man since antiquity, they tend to disappear to the benefit of animals from the continent. We can still distinguish the pig of Kea, the cow of Tinos and the donkey of Syros. The latter has had a darker time carrying tourists to the port of Santorini. As for the former prison island of Gyaros, it lost its colony of llamas imported from South America in the 20th century. But the other uninhabited island of Antimilos (20 km northwest of Milos) is still home to the wild goat of Erimomilos (Capra Aegagrus Pictus), a subspecies of the kri-kri, the famous wild goat of Crete.
Dangerous species at sea
Although there are 47 species of shark in Greece, they pose little danger to humans: the last fatal attack took place in 1963, and Greek waters are considered the safest in the world when it comes to sharks. The only species potentially at risk is the Mediterranean great white shark. This sub-category of the dreaded white shark (Carcharodon carcharias) from Australia or America is distinguished by its light brown back. But with only 300 specimens in the whole of the Mediterranean, its presence is considered "occasional" in the south of France and even rarer in Greece, where it has only been spotted near the mainland coast and those of Corfu (Ionian Islands) and Thassos (northern Aegean Islands). The pelagic jellyfish (Pelagia noctiluca) is more to be wary of. Locally known astsouchtra, this is the only jellyfish that is dangerous to humans in Greece: measuring 5 cm in diameter, brown (females) or violet (males) in color, it is phosphorescent at night and only presents a risk when the current brings it to shore. It's not lethal, but it is stinging, causing itching, skin lesions and allergies. The worry for swimmers is that the shock of the sting can cause panic and drowning.
Dangerous species on earth
There are 5 species of viper in Greece, whose venom can be fatal to humans. Two are found in the Cyclades: the ammodyte or horned viper (Vipera amodytes) and the Milos viper (Macrovipera schweizeri). As for scorpions, Greece is the country with the most species in Europe: 32 identified to date. Their stings are often painful, but their venom poses no risk to healthy adults. The only exception is the yellow-brown gibbous scorpion (Mesobuthus gibbosus), 7 cm long and found on most islands. It can cause heart complications and can be fatal in case of allergy. In recent years, however, there have been no serious accidents involving this or other vipers. In fact, of all the animals in Greece, the common mosquito(Culex pipiens) is by far the most dangerous species, since it is the main vector of the West Nile virus, to which the death of 50 people in the country in 2018 is attributed. As there is no cure, it's a good idea to take precautions: long, light-colored clothing in the evening, insect repellent, mosquito netting on windows.
