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Welcome to the Orient! Some inhabitants are very proud of it, others deny it, but Greece does belong to the Eastern sphere. It is true that the country has become more westernized since its independence in 1829, and even more so since it joined the European Economic Community in 1981. But the dual Byzantine and Ottoman heritage still has a profound influence on customs. The notions of individual freedom, altruism or religion are lived differently here. We put up with the noise made by our neighbor, because we ourselves make noise or are led to do so; we help our neighbor without question, but we disturb him with the sound system at 3am without seeing the harm in it. The problem is that the Greeks are now trying to reconcile the two cultures. In 2020, eighteen years after the ban on smoking in public places, the government has promised to enforce the law. And we comment on this by lighting up a little one in the kafenion room.

A supportive society

In villages and neighbourhoods, but especially within families, it is solidarity that has enabled Greek society to survive the 2009 crisis: the uncle who finds you a job, the neighbor who brings food to the old lady on thefifth floor, the cousin who has gone to Germany to finance the work on the family restaurant, etc. It is true that social ties have also suffered greatly from this same crisis, which has increased individualism and broken down many traditional structures. But Greek solidarity is still palpable, as in Lesbos, one of the main points of entry of refugees into Greece, where many islanders transport and feed the new arrivals for free, no matter how illegal it is.

Philoxenia as a precept

This term means "love of strangers" and refers to a very strong sense of hospitality. If it has become a name for many hotels, it is above all an oriental tradition that continues. Not always in the big cities or in the most touristy areas, but as soon as you are in the countryside, you can find yourself invited for coffee or a meal by complete strangers. And this is even more true if you are traveling with children. The same goes for restaurants with Greek friends, where it will be very difficult to pay or share the bill. Philoxenia has also regained its nobility with those families taking under their protection the refugees who have arrived in numbers since 2015. This uncalculated sense of hospitality remains one of Greece's assets: even after nearly a century of mass tourism and successive waves of immigration, Greeks still often make a point of welcoming foreigners.

The table at the heart of social relations

Greece and France have at least one thing in common: they are the two nations where people spend the most time eating. The French are the world champions with an average of 2h13 per day, followed by the Greeks with 2h11. Here, the meal is an opportunity to order/cook a lot and not to finish everything, to talk, to drink, to be with family or friends, sometimes to do business or to spend a romantic evening. In short, it's a well-established tradition. But we don't entertain at home, we prefer to invite to the restaurant. The typical meal is convivial. However, you should know that here, everyone digs into the dishes, salads and assorted mezzedes. Another important difference is that in taverns, outside the most touristy areas, dessert is usually offered. You should not ask for it (it is rude), but it comes after the bill in the form of watermelon, grapes or a small sweet.

The importance of family

The pedia (a word that gave birth to "pediatrician") are here little kings. Because even if they have very few (1.3 children per woman on average), the Greeks are crazy about toddlers. They love their children, they cover them with gifts and sweets. And even when their offspring are grown up, they continue to spoil them with little dishes prepared by mom or an apartment bought by dad. On the one hand, this is very good, because if you travel with children, the welcome will be warmer everywhere. On the other hand, it is quite terrible because it is now a whole generation of young Greeks who are spoiled... and victim of one of the highest obesity rates in Europe. Another harmful aspect of this cumbersome love is that parents want their offspring to succeed at school at all costs. So, from primary school onwards, many children find themselves bogged down in evening classes - the dreaded frontistiria - on which families spend lavishly.

In retirement, Greeks often stay close to their children to help them with their children and meals. If they have the opportunity and the means, they return to their island or native region. Retired people do not travel around Europe like the French but prefer to turn to their home and household chores. The men meet their old friends at the local kafenion to play cards, share a mezze while sipping an ouzo. On Sundays, the tavern gathers families and friends around a table. When old age sets in, the grandfather is in turn taken care of by his children.

The omnipotence of patriarchy

Besides the venerable Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople, which governs the religious life of the Orthodox, the Greeks are above all subject to another patriarchate, the paternal social order. All his life, in all his administrative procedures, at the bank and to create a company, the Greek citizen - man or woman - will be recognized only in relation to his father. And the same goes, of course, for the wife, who is almost non-existent from a legal point of view. This is one of the signs that says that this is the Orient. The father decides, the rest of the family executes. As in all oriental countries, there is another reading of this distribution of roles: the women hold the reins, leaving the men the impression of power. Nevertheless, it is the men (politicians) who have brought the country to chaos on several occasions, as in 2009, for example. Men still gather to play tavli (backgammon) at the kafenion, a traditional café where women never venture. But the patriarchy is slowly unraveling with the increase in the number of children born out of wedlock, or with the creation of a civil union, in 2015, including for homosexual couples.

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