Ancient and Byzantine treasures
Among the most ancient sites, do not miss the Mycenaean necropolis of Mazarakata in Cephalonia. Its vaults dug directly into the rock and connected by narrow corridors house hundreds of tombs. To discover the splendors of the archaic period, it is on the peninsula of Kanoni, where the ancient Corfu developed, that you should go. One can still read there the expression of a reasoned urbanism dividing the space by activities: the dwellings in the west, the sanctuaries in the east and the commercial and artisanal activities in the north-west, as attested by the vestiges of workshops and stores. If one had to retain only one vestige, it would be that of the Temple of Artemis. Simplicity, logic and robustness preside over the construction of the Doric temples whose decoration is especially characterized by columns without base, with capitals without decoration, and by friezes alternating elements in projection (triglyphs) and in withdrawal (metopes). This temple, one of the first realizations in stone of the island, is also characterized by a cella or elongated central room, divided into three aisles by two rows of columns, surrounded by a peristyle and framed by a pronaos (vestibule) and an opisthodome (room where the offerings were exposed). Rigor and Doric elegance are also to be seen on the archaeological site of Mon Repos which shelters in particular the vestiges of the Temple of Kardaki of almost 25 m length. The Roman remains are less numerous, however do not miss the ruins of the thermal baths in Benitses (Corfu), or those of the small Roman villa with beautiful mosaics in Skala (Cephalonia). Some fortifications composed of cyclopean walls and towers are sometimes still visible as in Peratata (Kefalonia) and Poros and Nirikos (Lefkada). These structures undoubtedly inspired the Byzantines who, in their turn, built a good number of strongholds, like the ancient citadel of Corfu, or kastro with powerful walls, like that of Agios Georgios (Kefalonia) whose enclosure, 600 m long, is pierced only by a single arched door. One of the main characteristics of Byzantine architecture is the reuse of materials. The great basilica Agia Kerkira in Paleopolis was originally a vast pagan building with 5 naves, before becoming, in the twelfth century, a Byzantine church whose northern wall of the nave, now unique, was composed of 121 marble cornices from an ancient temple. The same reuse in the church of Saints Jason and Saint Sosipatros (Corfu) of the 13th century, a Byzantine jewel whose alternating brick and stone bonding, decorative frescoes and stucco decorations are to be admired. But it is the iconostases, partitions in carved wood or precious metal decorated with icons separating the nave from the choir, which best illustrate the decorative richness of the great Byzantine period.
Venetian power
In order to establish its power once and for all, the Serenissima first endeavored to reinforce all the strongholds of the islands, starting with the citadel of Corfu, which it completed with a fort, and which a moat topped by a movable wooden bridge protected by two bastions separated from the mainland. A double impregnable enclosure was built to link the old citadel and the new fort. Powder magazines, a square clock tower and naval warehouses are still visible today. Among the other beautiful witnesses of this Venetian power, do not miss the ruins of the fortress of Assos (Cephalonia) with its impressive chicane entrance gate and those of the Kastro of Zakynthos-City (Zakynthos). The influence of Venice can also be seen in the urban planning of the cities. Squares surrounded by elegant arcades, streets lined with beautiful houses with red tile roofs and pastel facades decorated with high windows and wrought iron balconies highlighting the piano nobile or noble floor ...: it blows like a wind of dolce vita on these Greek islands! The Kremasti square of Corfu is one of the most beautiful with its old houses with green shutters and its many vaulted passages and especially its central well richly worked. But it is perhaps Zakynthos (Zakynthos) which wears these Venetian colors most proudly. It is here that the famous Ionian School of painting was born, mixing the Byzantine tradition and the Venetian Renaissance, which also had a lasting influence on the architecture. See the Agios Marcos square, a real Italian-style theater surrounded by arcades where everyone rushes to see and be seen. The Serenissima also left its mark on religious buildings, alternating Renaissance sobriety and Baroque exuberance. The campaniles, or isolated bell towers, are of course the most famous representatives of Venice. Among the most beautiful churches of the Ionian Islands, do not miss: Panagia Antivouniotissa, the cosmopolitan church of Corfu with its Renaissance facade and its three imposing naves, the churches of Agios Nikolaos and Agios Dimitrios of Lefkada with their abundant Baroque ornamentation or the very sober and elegant church of Agios Nikolaos Tou Molou of Zakynthos. In the same way that they based their military power on pre-existing structures, mostly Byzantine, the Venetians also remodeled many medieval monasteries. Zakynthos is home to some very beautiful ones, such as the monastery of Agios Georgios and the monastery of Anafonitria, whose massive medieval tower was transformed into a bell tower. The Pantocrator Monastery in Corfu is also a must-see. Do not miss the sumptuous frescoes covering the ceiling of the nave and its silver icons. Generally speaking, these monasteries are recognizable by their simple and geometrical volumes topped by domes. The villages of discreet Kythera, Ithaca and Lefkada testify to the evolution of domestic architecture under the reign of the Serenissima. In order to protect themselves from the frequent attacks of pirates and other enemies of Venice, the inhabitants had real fortified houses built with very thick walls, one or two floors, with wooden doors and very narrow windows. Once security was restored, these small forts gave way to houses with high windows, facades adorned with balconies and pierced with arcades.
From the protectorates to the contemporary era
The successive presence of the great European powers, especially France and Great Britain, has given the Ionian Islands a unique cosmopolitan atmosphere. And it is undoubtedly the city of Corfu which is the most elegant witness of it. Does the Liston remind you of anything? This street lined with arcaded houses was designed by Matthieu de Lesseps, the architect in charge of... the Rue de Rivoli in Paris! The British, on the other hand, have given free rein to a neoclassical style that is sometimes a little pompous. The most beautiful representative of this neoclassical style is the Palais Saint-Michel et Saint-Georges, the work of the English architect Whitmore, whose facade is decorated with a Doric portico, the impressive vestibule with its decorative friezes, and above all the ballroom with its gilded coffered domes. The British have also rethought the urban planning of the city of Corfu by transforming the Esplanade into a large cricket field! In Kefalonia, it is to them that we owe the impressive Bosset bridge, whose 650 m long connect the two banks of the lagoon. The harmony that reigns in Ithaca is undoubtedly linked to the fact that the British had forbidden the construction of buildings of more than two floors, privileging the balance of proportions and the sobriety of colors. Although it is the proud representative of the neoclassical fashion, the Achilleion of Corfu is not the work of the English but of Italian architects commissioned by Elizabeth of Austria. Inspired by the villas of Pompeii and entirely dedicated to the glory of the hero Achilles, this residence impresses in particular by its monumental hallway and its sumptuous gardens. The official attachment to Greece was accompanied by a new impetus for public construction, such as the Municipal Theater of Corfu. In the following century, the islands were victims of repeated earthquakes, including one of the most devastating in 1953. Kefalonia was hit hard and Argostoli had to be completely rebuilt. To do this, they chose to perpetuate the tradition of green spaces, waterfronts and harmonious pastel facades in vogue in the previous century. Lefkada, on the other hand, developed a unique architecture designed to withstand the onslaught of the earth. Many churches, including that of Agios Minas, were topped with metal belfries, lighter and therefore likely to cause less damage in case of a fall. For the houses, the inhabitants favored wooden or sheet metal structures on stone foundations. Today, if they have not been able to escape the throes of mass tourism seeing resorts and other hotel complexes spring up like mushrooms, the Ionian islands have nevertheless managed to keep their authenticity, favoring more and more creations with clean lines that blend naturally into their breathtaking landscapes.
Traditional habitat
In Zakynthos (Zakynthos), you can discover the kalives, tall rectangular huts made of wood and thatch built on high wooden piles or perched in the trees, to which you can gain access by a ladder, and which were originally used as watchtowers. Some islands also contain treasures of dry-stone architecture, from circular huts with conical, corbelled or domed roofs, to rectangular huts with flat roofs, low walls separating the land or retaining walls for terraces. Ithaca and Lefkada have beautiful examples. The traditional houses are most often rectangular in plan, with one or two floors, a gable and ridged roofs covered with red canal tiles (now replaced by flat tiles, more resistant to earthquakes). Their plastered stone facade is often whitewashed, bringing out the bright colors of the doors and windows. The interior space is divided by wooden and wattle and daub partitions. The kitchen was originally placed outside the house for safety reasons. Verandas and wooden balconies are common. Lefkada and Kefalonia are full of these houses whose wealth obviously depends on that of its owner, the great farmers being built large multi-storey houses with imposing gates. To discover these Ionian islands in a different way, dare to leave their idyllic beaches to discover these marvelous stone villages, get lost in their maze of shady streets and observe their treasures from their picturesque squares!
