Hidden treasures
Winding its way through low- and mid-mountainous terrain, the Pueblos Blancos route brings together nineteen localities, the majority of which are located near or in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, in the province of Cadiz, while another section allows you to continue your journey in the Serranía de Ronda, in the province of Málaga. With their whitewashed facades, black-painted wrought-iron windows and flowerpots hanging from the walls, these pueblos blancos have identical visuals, even if it's their brilliant color in the sunlight that has earned them their nickname of "white villages". But the similarities don't stop there. For reasons of security against the many attacks in the region, they were often built on hilltops and then carefully fortified. From this past, they have retained their traditional Moorish layout, with winding streets tumbling down or climbing steep slopes. As you stroll through these villages, you'll discover hidden treasures. Here, the entrance to a square, church or palace. Here, the intimacy of a richly appointed patio, or an alleyway which, if followed, leads to a magnificent view over the plains and sunny pastures... Here are two routes to follow, from west to east, one further north, the other further south, but both sharing the same starting point, Arcos de la Frontera, in the province of Cadiz. And following the same division, the "must-do's" and interesting stages between each of them. Given the rather mild climate, this tour can be enjoyed all year round, although it's best to avoid too hot or too cold, preferring spring and autumn. Allow at least two days for each route, bearing in mind that those in the south will be narrower, and a week won't be too long to really appreciate the charm of each stage.
The northern route, archaeological sites, dolmens and watchtowers
Arcos de la Frontera. Just 70 km from Cadiz and 40 km from Jerez de la Frontera, it's an almost natural gateway to the pueblos blancos. But not only for its ease of access. Perched on the edge of a plateau almost 200 meters high, with the River Guadalete at its foot, Arcos is surely one of the most beautiful small towns on the Iberian Peninsula. Today it has over 30,900 inhabitants, but was once one of the most important towns in Muslim Andalusia. Unmistakably oriental in style, its urban layout resembles a labyrinth: cobbled streets, some barely a metre wide, undulate along the uneven ground, abruptly interrupting before precipices that surround Arcos on all sides. It's a very sunny town, with some streetlamps running on solar power, but it can also experience chilly nights if the Levante winds blow. Heading up from the Plaza de España, you'll take a stroll through the enchanting old town to the top of the village, where you'll enjoy a superb view of the Sierra de Cádiz. Along the way, take the time to stop and admire the beautiful churches of Santa Maria and San Pedro, the palace of the Conde de Águila or the town hall, ayuntamiento.
To regain your strength, stop off at one of the many terraces with a view to sample the local specialities: tartines with manteca colorá (paprika lard) or manteca con zurrapa (a kind of rillettes). Ceramics and pottery can be purchased in the village center. And water sports enthusiasts can take to the waters of Lake Molinera.
From Arcos to Setenil de las Bodegas, this tour takes you first to Algar. Via a short detour a few kilometers southeast of Arcos. Situated at an altitude of 200 metres, this small white village is home to the church of Santa María de Guadalupe. Then, heading north again, we come across Bornos, a village known for its sulfur springs and located on the banks of the "embalse" reservoir of the same name. This is one of the largest reservoirs in Andalusia, where you can enjoy kayaking, fishing and birdwatching. Not far from Bornos, head for Espera to visit the Iberian-Roman town of Carissa Aurelia, the 16th-century church of Santa Maria de Gracia and, above all, the superb views from Fatetar castle, which dominates the village from the top of its rock. On the other side of the Bornosembayment, the village of Villamartín offers a wide variety of landscapes and colors, from the white of the village to the green of its surroundings and the blues of the sky and lake. Nearby is the Alberite dolmen, one of the oldest megalithic monuments on the Iberian Peninsula (over 6,000 years old). A few kilometers further east, you come to Algodonales, famous for its Corpus Christi festivities, when it covers its streets with twigs. But above all, it is considered the gateway to the Sierra de Grazalema. Situated at the foot of the Sierra de Líjar, this village is ideal for aeronautical sports, and even hosted the world hang-gliding championship in 2001. And if you come on May 2, 3 or 4, you'll have the pleasure of witnessing a re-enactment of the Algodonaleños' struggle against the French during the War of Independence. But you can buy guitars, a traditional local product, all year round. The nearby hamlet of La Muela is home to one of the largest colonies of griffon vultures in Andalusia. The next stage takes you to El Gastor, known as the balcony of the pueblos blancos, offering magnificent views from its highest point. A visit to the José Maria el Tempranillo Museum will tell you more about daily life in the sierra in the 19th century. The municipality is also home to other megalithic remains, such as the Dolmen du Gigante. Located in the easternmost part of this route, Olvera , which served as a stronghold during many wars, once belonged to the Dukes of Osuna and is now classified as a "historic artistic ensemble". Here, you'll appreciate the layout of its streets, all oriented towards the village's two most important and highest landmarks, the 18th-century Church of Encarnación and its Nasrid castle. To the west of the town is the Zaframagón rock, declared a nature reserve and home to the largest colony of vultures in Andalusia. A refuge for the Moors expelled from Setenil, Alcalá del valle is home to other significant megalithic features, the dolmens of los Tomillos, and produces some very famous asparagus.
Setenil de las Bodegas completes the tour. Not the best-known of the white villages, but well worth a visit. If only for the unique structure of its houses, carved out of the rock. But when you enter the village, you don't get the impression that they've been dug out; you get the feeling that a stone flow has rolled over the houses, which just barely escaped destruction. As in any white village, the remains of its Nasrid-era castle dominate the landscape. Whether in the lower or upper part of the village, you can stroll through it while indulging in tapeo, in one of its many bars or bodegas. And enjoy its pastries. If you wish to continue your tour in Málaga, Ronda is only a few kilometers away. This province is also home to some pretty white villages such as Nerja and Frigiliana.
The southern route, in the heart of the Natural Park of Grazalema
To get from Arcos to the two jewels of the pueblos blancos, Grazalema and Zahara de la Sierra, the route takes in the direction of El Bosque, but makes a short detour to Prado del Rey, birthplace of the sweet wines of Parajate that have been making a name for themselves since the 19th century. The village is also renowned for its leather goods and wooden furniture. And 4 km away are the remains of the Roman town of Iptuci. The tour continues to El Bosque, one of the best-known of the pueblos blancos, for its trout fishing grounds and privileged location in the Sierra de Grazalema. To familiarize yourself with the flora and fauna of this sierra, visit the nature park's visitor center and the botanical garden, home to aromatic plants and, above all, the Pinsapo, the emblematic pine of the nature park. In the village, the walk also includes a visit to the Molino de Abajo Ecomuseum, and hikers can reach Benamahoma, the next stop, by following the course of the Majaceite River along a 5 km path through a forest of poplars, ashes and elms. The village is famous for its Moorish and Christian festivals, which take place at the beginning of August, and the "El Nacimiento" spring, which flows into the Majaceite River and has given rise to numerous fish farms. Heading south, we arrive in Ubrique, a village world-famous for its leather crafts. You can learn more about this craft by visiting the museum dedicated to it, housed in the 7th-century Capuchinos convent. You can extend your stroll through the village by discovering its Nasrid-style quarter and following its "paseo de miradors" (7 in all) with superb views of the surrounding area. Hiking enthusiasts can even reach Benaocaz (to the northeast) by following an ancient Roman road. Villaluenga del Rosario has the distinction of being the highest village in the whole province of Cadiz. An ideal place for caving, horseback riding and cycling. Not to mention its latest attraction, the quesos payoyos (made from goat's or sheep's milk, or both), which attract a large number of shoppers every weekend.
Grazalema. At an altitude of 825 m, this pueblo blanco of Roman origin, with a population of over 2,000, lies at the foot of the Sierra del Piñar and in the heart of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. It is part of the area of the Iberian Peninsula where rainfall over the course of the year is normally the highest in terms of concentration. The surrounding massifs were the first sight of Spanish navigators returning from the New World. The village's two main resources are the manufacture of blankets from pure virgin wool and the activities linked to green tourism, which are being practiced and developed more and more within the park. Enjoy the traditional architecture and carefully maintained streets.
Zahara de la Sierra. This splendid little village, founded in the 7th century by the Arabs, brings the route to a close. Also located in the Grazalema Park and classified as a national monument, it overlooks the exceptional site of the Zaharareservoir, considered one of the most beautiful in Andalusia. From its vantage point, you can enjoy impressive views of the surrounding area. Strolling through the narrow streets, you'll discover the ruins of its Nasrid castle and the ramparts built by the Romans and Arabs. On leaving the village, stop off at the Manzanillo mill to sample the local oil. Horse-riding excursions are organized from the village, and the more athletic will enjoy the ruta de la Garganta Verde (Green Gorge route), a four-hour circuit of moderate difficulty, but amply rewarded by the beauty of the scenery traversed.
