A fundamentally Catholic land
Christianity, which eventually became the official religion of the Roman Empire, appeared very early on the island. In the Middle Ages, the Pope ruled an influential state and Rome was the center of the Christian world. Today, the Italian constitution guarantees freedom of religion and the separation of church and state. Nevertheless, Italy is rich in churches, cathedrals, basilicas... and boasts the largest number of saints and shrines in the Christian world. As in France, the three major religious holidays are Easter, August 15(Ferragosto) and Christmas. While more and more Italians are adopting northern European customs and traditions for Christmas celebrations - the Christmas tree and the exchange of gifts - there are still two deeply rooted traditions in Sicily: the construction of elaborate nativity scenes(presepi) and the Befana. On January 6, the day of the Epiphany, the Befana (witch) travels the skies on a broomstick in search of the Christ Child. She stops at every house, leaving gifts, toys and sweets for the good children and a lump of coal for the others.
Religion still alive in Sicily
Sicilian youth is very attached to traditions and religious processions, and young Sicilians will prove that it's possible to be both hip and devout! Particularly lively are the processions of the patron saint Rosalie in Palermo and Saint Agatha in Catania. Religion structures most social rituals: for example, isn't it a form of recognition of divine assistance to use the steps of religious buildings as meeting places, depending on the vocation of the site? But above all, the true presence of the sacred is seen in the face of death, which is an integral part of Sicilian life. Death is referred to on every street corner, in the death notices posted on the walls, and in the small signs of the cross made as a hearse passes by or as you walk along a cemetery. Just look at the catacombs of the Capuccini in Palermo, where almost 8,000 corpses of wealthy Palermitans who died between the 17th and 20th centuries are piled up, of which almost 3,000 have been mummified! What's more, Sicilians call on the saints to come to the rescue whenever the sirocco blows. But not all superstitions are religious. In some inland villages, for example, you may see house facades with an upside-down pair of scissors inlaid in the wall: intended to ward off bad luck and warn off enemies (a deterrent, don't you think?).
The celebrations of Holy Week
While the Settimana Santa at Easter is celebrated throughout the Catholic Christian world, especially in Spain, some Sicilian towns stand out for their processions inherited from the Spanish Inquisition. Those of Trapani and Erice - a village in the hills above Trapani - are literally "mysterious". The Mystery Procession, an age-old event that combines religion and folklore, is one of the highlights of Trapani life. Every Good Friday, groups of sculpted statues (the Misteri) renew the Passion and Death of Jesus Christ in a grandiose procession. Other towns stand out for their traditional ritual processions during Holy Week, inherited from the Spanish Inquisition, but more so in the center of the island. The best-known of these are Caltanissetta, Caltagirone and Enna. The latter is particularly impressive, with religious orders parading around in white tunics and hoods.
