A unique neighborhood
If the Chinese community has largely taken over the 13th arrondissement of the capital or the African community the district of Château-Rouge(18th arrondissement), it is between Gare du Nord and Marx Dormoy, straddling the 10th and 18th arrondissements, that a good part of the diaspora from the Indian sub-continent has settled. And a walk in the neighborhood can be a real trip between Delhi and Bombay. Indeed, one is easily transported to thousands of kilometers, the five senses constantly on the alert. You can enjoy the smell of spices coming out of exotic stores, the beauty and quality of fabrics competing with colors and glitter in the stores of the district, before being tempted by the flavors of the countless restaurants offering the most delicious Indian specialties. In short, an area full of colors and discoveries, which is worth the detour, especially during the Ganesh festival.
The Ganesh Festival, an experience not to be missed
Once again lulled by the scent of flowers and incense, this year the 26th edition of the Ganesh Festival will take place in the Indian district of La Chapelle. As always, it will be held on the last Sunday of August (the 28th in this year 2022) and will be organized by the largest Hindu temple in France. To the lively rhythm of drums and bells, the elephant-headed god, son of Shiva and Parvati, and a symbol of love and knowledge is celebrated. In the heart of the 18th arrondissement of Paris, one is instantly transported to the streets of Colombo or Calcutta, mingling with the crowd of Hindus and curious people who have come to ask for the blessing of the god at the origin of the world and of all events in life in general
A procession high in color
The festivities begin at 9am by celebrating Ganesh and praying at the Sri Manicka Vinayakar Alayam temple at 17 rue Pajol (18th arrondissement). A warm and intoxicating atmosphere emanates from the crowd and the spicy scents of the numerous offerings. It is necessary to say it: the disorientation is total! Around 10:30 am, the chariot where the statue of the god is enthroned, starts its parade in the streets of the district, pulled by men and women adorned with necklaces of flowers, and dressed in traditional clothes with bright colors. As Ganesh passes, everyone asks for his blessing, while dancers, singers and musicians celebrate the goodness of the elephant-headed god. The kavadi dancers are also very impressive as their physical performance seems to be very demanding under the hot sun of the end of August (in general!). Pounding the Parisian pavement with their bare feet, they carry heavy wooden and peacock feather structures on their heads and shoulders, in honor of Ganesh and his brother Skanda, the god of war. Women also revere the gods by carrying clay pots on their heads filled with offerings, including flaming camphor or milk. The imposing resin elephant and the papier-mâché horses, mingle with the Tamil flute and drum players who accompany the procession in honor of the one who has the power to remove the obstacles of life. Until 3pm, the Ganesh float, decorated with dozens of flower necklaces, bananas and areca leaves, roamed the streets of Paris to the sound of coconuts being broken on its way. By breaking the fruits, the devotees offered their hearts to Ganesh, and broke the illusion of the world (the shell), the individual Karma (the flesh), and the human ego (the water). Attending this religious festival is therefore a unique opportunity for a frankly exotic communion, where devotees from Hindu countries and regions around the world gather to celebrate the love of the divine Ganesh, purifier of the world. Mark your calendars!
Smart info
When is it? Of course, you can enjoy this area all year round, but to attend the 2022 edition of the Ganesh Festival, go on Sunday August 28.
How to get there. The gathering place is the Sri Manicka Vinayakar Alayam temple at 17 rue Pajol in the 18th arrondissement (between the metros La Chapelle and Marx Dormoy).
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