A wind of madness swirls around Mardi Gras announcing, with the bugle call of the brass bands, the carnival season. Several millennia old, the tradition has not aged a bit. On the contrary, every year it falls back into childhood, accompanied by all the merrymakers of France and Navarre. Masks, float parades, musical parades, balls, bugnes and confetti: a miracle recipe to break the monotony of everyday life since the only rule of Carnival is that everything is allowed! So arm yourself with enthusiasm and good humor to join the carnival bands of Dunkerque. A unique event!
In Dunkirk, the art of celebration
As a city with a strong identity, Dunkirk remains deeply attached to its traditions and values. The carnival, from January to March, brings the colors and warmth that winter lacks and reinforces more than ever the pride of being Dunkerque. After three editions strongly disturbed by the Covid-19 and the successive sanitary restrictions, it is the great return of this popular colorful event. A return not to be missed of course, as the party promises to be beautiful!
Are you already planning a double-skinned costume to celebrate Carnival in Dunkirk? Drop the fleece: the Dunkirkers have a gift for warming up an atmosphere, or even setting it on fire. Only the umbrella is de rigueur here but because it participates in the parade: as is the custom, the carnival people or masquelours parade with their bergenaere, "umbrellas", raised high. In the North, the carnival has remained a real popular festival in which the whole region participates. Unlike the famous parade of Nice, one is not a spectator of the carnival but an actor. Fantasy, exuberance and the joy of sharing this temporary madness: Dunkirk is the best example of the carnival spirit!
The tradition is more directly linked to the maritime past than to religion: it was originally the foye ( "party") in honor of the sailors before they embarked on a perilous crossing to Iceland. Gradually, the merry trawlers took to the streets instead of the taverns until they formed the famous "Visscherbende", the fishermen's band. The Band has become the sacred rite of the processions that swell every year with the participants: tens of thousands of people parade today line by line, er... band by band!
Prepare your disguise!
The region doesn't do things by halves: the festivities last between 8 and 10 weeks, with a three-day peak, called the "Three Joys", at the time of Mardi Gras, on February 21 this year. This event is eagerly awaited: costumes are prepared weeks in advance, make-up is meticulously prepared and, of course, umbrellas are carefully decorated. Some Dunkirkers even take time off work to take part in this week of festivities; this will also be the time for you to be there. One of the golden rules is to come in disguise, otherwise you will have no hope of penetrating these merry bands. And don't expect to recycle your beautiful Queen of Sheba costume: what counts here is humor and what the imagination can do with old scraps of fabric; the locals call this the art of clet'che, of "disguise". You have to use your imagination. Now it's your turn to play!
Very lively customs and traditions
As for the unfolding of the carnival, there are three main stages: the parades or rush of masks in the afternoon, the balls in the evening and the "chapels" which ensure the dead time between the two. By chapel, we mean pilgrimage of the gullet: the bands invite themselves to the homes of the inhabitants, to the bars and pubs to quench their thirst and regain their strength. Do not be mistaken if in these moments you are accused of being "criminal", in carnival it means: drunk!
The procession has its own customs, you must know them and, of course, respect them. As soon as the drum beats the recall, the masquelours take each other arm in arm to form the lines. The front row seats are the most coveted. To all the twigs, refrain: they are reserved for the big guys whose mission is to protect the musicians who follow. The crowd follows the band in rhythm, singing the traditional songs at the top of their lungs. Don't be surprised when it's time for heckling: when the music becomes lively, the first lines stop while the following ones continue to advance. One attends then impressive movements of crowd, everybody saque n'dans : " y va de bon cœur " !
Hymn to the Reuze and appointment to the ball!
If the carnival of Nice has its king, that of Dunkirk has its giant: the Reuze, the protector of the city. This Scandinavian warrior is highly respected, and will not be burned, but will be installed in the front row, place Jean-Bart(/v26105-dunkerque-59140/c1173-visites-points-d-interet/c937-monuments/c950-colonne-statue/89096-statue-de-jean-bart.html), to admire the parades. When they reach the town hall, the municipal team proceeds to a throw of... 450 kg of herrings on the festival-goers! And it is a very appreciated custom... These Dunkirkers are crazy! The day ends with the "grand rigodon": the crowd gathers at the foot of the Reuze to sing the Cantate à Jean Bart, a hymn that the Dunkirkers sing hand in hand, one knee on the ground and hat down.
When organizing a Dunkerque escapade, it is important to note that most of the balls are not free. But it is important to know that the organizing associations give the profits to people in need. Tickets can be purchased at thetourist office and in various establishments in the city (information available at the tourist office). The largest of them takes place in the Palais des Congrès of Dunkerque. If you prefer a more intimate atmosphere, go to the neighboring towns: each one has its own ball every Saturday evening and sometimes even on Sundays during this festive period. So don't waste any more time: prepare your weekend to live a memorable party!
Smart info
When are the festivities? In the region, the festivities take place this year from Saturday, January 7 to Sunday, April 16, 2023. But, to attend the highlight of the Carnival of Dunkirk, go from Saturday, February 18 to Tuesday, February 21 and the weekend of February 25 and 26, 2023. To your diaries!
How to get there. By car (A25 from Lille, A1 from Paris, A16 from Belgium and Boulogne-Calais), by train or by plane (Lille-Lesquin airport), everything is possible.
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Useful. To prepare your Carnival getaway in the best possible way. The tourist office offers a package including accommodation, meals, bands and the ball.
OFFICE DE TOURISME DE DUNKERQUE - More information on the site
CARNAVAL DE DUNKERQUE - More information on the website
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