Fruits and Vegetables
Let's get started! Let's start light and dietetic, but so good. The fruits and vegetables of the Alpilles are renowned far beyond the region's borders. It's true that the climate is ideal and that the local farmers have a special know-how. Large farms rub shoulders with small ones, and the diversity of soils means that farmers can offer a wide range of products. Apples, pears, tomatoes, strawberries, peaches, apricots... are consumed in all the establishments and are distributed on all the local stalls, practically directly. Surplus produce is exported to other départements, enhancing the reputation of the Alpilles and Camargue regions. In the Alpilles region alone, no less than 1,600 hectares, including 415 under glass, are dedicated to vegetable production. For fruit trees, there are almost 5,000 hectares of cultivated land, producing exceptional produce every year.
Meat
The Camargue bull
Of course, when we think of Camargue, we think of bulls, and of this meat of character, tasty and firm, which can be enjoyed in a variety of ways. Since 1996, meat from Camargue bulls has benefited from A.O.C. certification, a guarantee of quality, both in terms of health and taste. The farms grouped under this appellation must meet very strict standards: the animals must have spent at least six months in wetlands, with no outside feed, and must have plenty of space and freedom of movement. Interestingly, this A.O.C. is the first to be awarded to red meat.
When it comes to preparation, chefs have no shortage of original ideas, but it would be unimaginable to visit the Camargue without tasting the famous Gardiane. Here again, recipes and tricks of the trade are plentiful, so much so that you won't have the impression of eating the same dish from one establishment to the next. All you have to do is try them out and make up your own mind, but it's a long way to go.
Alpilles lamb
If the Camargue has its bulls, the Alpilles has its lambs. With its totally different, lighter yet no less flavorful taste, connoisseurs prepare lamb grilled, roasted, braised or even stuffed. This exceptional meat can be enjoyed at any stage of cooking and blends perfectly with a host of ingredients, allowing great latitude in preparation. Beware of counterfeit products, however, as agneau de La Crau is produced in a very restricted geographical area bounded by the communes of Arles and Tarascon to the west, Graveson and Eyragues to the north, Pelissanne to the east and Fos-sur-Mer to the south. In 2020, an I.G.P. (Protected Geographical Indication) classification was introduced to recognize the qualities of La Crau lamb. The I.G.P. charter stipulates that, in addition to numerous dietary constraints, the animals must have been born, raised and slaughtered at the breeder's premises. A meat to die for.
Game
Hunting, whether in the Alpilles or the Camargue, is an ancestral activity. In the past, game was plentiful in these regions. Hairy game in the rolling Alpilles countryside, feathered game in the large wetlands of the Camargue... Although game is generally rarer today, it is still very much present in nature and, consequently, at the region's tables. In the Alpilles, for example, wild boar are proliferating. Their population is steadily increasing, unlike small game. In fact, many establishments offer wild boar on their menus, as a daube, stew or roast. At home, it's also excellent on the barbecue, although it's advisable to tenderize it before cooking. Wild boar is a firm meat with a powerful flavor that goes very well with fragrant, spicy sauces.
The delicatessen
When it comes to charcuterie, Arles is the place to be. Of course, you'll find many excellent producers throughout the Alpilles and Camargue regions, but the flagship product in this category is the Arles sausage. This is a sausage whose specificity lies in the fact that it is made mainly from lean beef. Lean pork is also added, along with pork fat, salt and spices. Beef has replaced donkey meat in the original recipe, imported to Arles in 1655 by charcutier Godard. Today, only a handful of craftsmen continue to make Arles sausages, perpetuating a centuries-old tradition. Among these defenders of our gastronomic heritage are Maison Genin in Arles and the Alazard et Roux charcuterie in Tarascon. But the reputation of this sausage extends far beyond our region.
Cheeses
No meal is complete without cheese. And that's just as well, because even if the region isn't the champion of cheese production, it does boast some famous ones.
Tomme d'Arles
A local specialty par excellence, this soft cheese is made from sheep's milk. It can be eaten fresh or dried, and is an excellent accompaniment to raw vegetable salads. Of course, it can also be eaten with a piece of farmhouse bread, or even on its own, just for gourmet pleasure. Production of Tomme d'Arles is fairly small, with just twenty or so producers making between one and two tons a year. As a result, it's mainly found in local markets, cheese stores and stalls. It is excellent with a local wine.
Goat's cheese
How could Provence not be associated with goat cheese? We've seen it in so many films and advertisements that this little cheese, very often round, deserves to be on the flag with the four gules pals on a gold background that flies on all Provencal buildings. Goat's cheeses can be enjoyed at various stages of ripening: fresh, dry, creamy, but also in a variety of preparations: macerated in olive oil, plain, with herbs, pepper, berries... rarely has a food adopted such a gourmet strategy.
Among the star cheeses is the famous raw-milk Tomme de Provence. It's a soft cheese with a bloomy rind that, according to some archaeologists, has been made in the same way since Neolithic times! It's hard to beat tradition. Many small local producers serve it in local grocery stores and cheese shops.
Fish and shellfish
Let's face it, fish production in the Alpilles is close to zero, apart from a few locally caught trout and carp, and for good reason: fish aren't very comfortable in the hills. The Camargue, on the other hand, with its access to the Mediterranean, is well stocked with fresh sea fish, but not only. Between Le Grau-du-Roi and Port-Saint-Louis, there's also a significant shellfish industry, with one of its great specialties: the tellin, harvested by rake trawl. This small bivalve shellfish is delicious as an aperitif, in parsley or as a garnish in a risotto or spaghetti dish. But seaside restaurateurs have no shortage of imagination when it comes to inventing new recipes. Tellin is not the only shellfish produced in the region. There are also mussels, oysters and even crayfish.
Wines
A wonderful meal is much more enjoyable when accompanied by a fine wine. The region produces some excellent ones, thanks to its Mediterranean climate and the Mistral wind that sweeps away miasmas harmful to vines. When it comes to wine, both the Alpilles and the Camargue can compete.
Baux-de-Provence A.O.C. wines
The A.O.C. des Baux-de-Provence vineyards cover an area of around 350 hectares, or eight communes. Today, 85% of the vineyards are farmed organically. These are wines of character. The reds have vegetal or fruity notes, with a predominance of black fruits, depending on the terroir. They need to age for five or six years before reaching their full potential. Rosés, on the other hand, are best enjoyed young, with fruity notes. The whites, finally, are rather dry and come from white Grenache grapes: Clairette, but also Sauvignon.
Camargue wines
Although vineyards in the Camargue have tended to retreat in favor of rice paddies, the region still retains some fine estates where traditional and noble grape varieties are cultivated. Local producers have opted for organic, quality agriculture, producing easy-drinking wines with fruity aromas and a hint of the sea.
Other spirits
Wine is not the only alcohol produced in the region. You can also taste the gardians' beer. A surprising beer, made from rice rather than hops. It comes in red, white and black, with flavors of caramel, almonds and licorice.
The famous Frigolet liqueur, made in Châteaurenard for 150 years, is also worth a mention. It's famous the world over for its taste, but also for the mystery that surrounds its composition, based on some thirty different plants.
Gourmandises
The Alpilles and Camargue regions are brimming with small producers, artisans and shopkeepers who have made sweetness and indulgence their credo.
Honey: Thyme, lavender, rosemary - there's no shortage of flavors on the stalls of the region's beekeepers. Many even offer tours of their farms and direct sales of honey and related products.
Chocolate : Whether you're in the Camargue or the Alpilles, you'll have to let yourself be guided by the wonderful smells wafting from their stores. In Saint-Rémy, don't hesitate to push open the door of chocolatier Joël Durand, where you'll discover an incredible variety of chocolate treats. You'll find many other passionate artisans throughout the pages of this guide or as you wander around.
Oreillettes : A typically Provençal dessert, usually associated with Christmas, you'll find them practically year-round in the region's bakeries. At tea time, with their dusting of powdered sugar, they're a real treat.
Fougasse: Another must-try dish in Provence, best enjoyed as an aperitif, although there are no rules. Fougasse can be plain, with black olives, bacon or onions... but it's always delicious. In fact, they come from many different regions, but Provence fougasse, with its hint of olive oil, is one of our favorites.
