CEMENTERIO GENERAL

Inaugurated in 1831 under the presidency of Marshal Andrés de Santa Cruz, this unusual burial place leads travelers to reconsider the sometimes melancholy ideas they had of cemeteries. Indeed, in this place, the funeral conventions have nothing to do with those found in Europe. Here, coming to mourn in silence does not exist. Instead, people come to dance, sing and drink in honor of the deceased. The tombs house the "tenants" in structures over four stories high, sometimes covered with colorful murals. Altars and ceremonial tables ( apxatas) strewn with flowers, bread, Singani, cigarettes, incense, coca leaves and other ritual plants blessed by the masters of ceremony ( yatiris), decorate the aisles. According to tradition, the souls arrive every November 1st at noon, and leave the next day at the same time. If you are in La Paz that day, you should know that the famous "Day of the Dead" is a commemoration not to be missed! The site extends on more than 1,5 km, on a surface of 92 000 square meters, and it is very easy to get lost there. What's more, the cemetery is so full that the crypts are only reserved for a maximum of 10 years. The urns will have to be returned to the families who will not be able to continue paying the rental fees. Sometimes they are even lost due to lack of funds. The price of a burial in this notorious cemetery varies between US$214 and US$12,500 depending on the location and conduct of the ceremony. Finally, the site welcomes major actors of the Bolivian history. For example, one can observe the military mausoleum housing the remains of the heroes of the Pacific War of 1879 against Chile and the tomb of the Spanish Jesuit priest Luis Espinal, assassinated in 1981, which bears the inscription "martyr of democracy".

How to get there

Located between the historic center of La Paz and the city of El Alto, the best way to get to the General Cemetery is to take the cable car on the red line to the Ajayuni (Cementerio) station. This is also where the buses and vans leave for Copacabana, Tiwanaku and Coroico. The stops are behind the flower stores. Be careful with your belongings during the visit: the neighborhood is not very friendly and sometimes tourists are stopped by fake police officers who extort money from them. We recommend using the services of a guide.