JA'FAR SWEETS
In the heart of the Muslim quarter, if you're arriving from the Damascus Gate, make a point of stopping off at this Palestinian patisserie, where you can sample all the local sweet treasures: a variety of baklavas, helbeh (a semolina cake flavored with fenugreek and aniseed, soaked in sugar syrup), harisseh (a semolina cake with orange blossom).... If it's fresh, opt for knafeh, the king of Palestinian pastries, which takes the form of an angel hair cake (or kadaif), filled with a kind of lightly salted cheese and soaked in syrup.
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