MEETING THE TAMARIND DOLPHINS

For many years, Tamarin Bay has been known for its resident groups of dolphins, some 500 in all, divided into two main species: the long-beaked dolphin or Stenella longirostris, a small cetacean averaging just over 2 meters in length and living in groups of between fifteen and several hundred individuals; the Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphin or Tursiopsadunctus, a mammal measuring around 2.50 meters and living in small pods close to shore and in large groups offshore ("Oum the dolphin" for "old-timers" who remember the series).

Of course, nature being the law, encounters with cetaceans are never guaranteed. When the boats are too numerous, the dolphins will even sulk offshore for a day or two. But all the same, it's a spot, and yes, you're rarely disappointed. Local tour operators, having sensed the bargain, are multiplying the number of excursions on offer, to the extent that the "dolphin encounter" has become one of Mauritius's flagship attractions. Curious onlookers come from all over the island to admire the acrobatic acrobatics of these compassionate beasts, who, it has to be said, are not short of twirls. The kids love it!

But the joy of the show must not detract from the respect due to the animal. For the sake of profit, the number of service providers is multiplying, and there are sometimes more than fifty boats in the bay, which is far from ideal for the mammals' peace and quiet. What's more, some unscrupulous locals insist on pursuing the cetaceans instead of waiting for them to move naturally in their direction. In the long term, scientists fear that this influx will disrupt the dolphins' biological cycles, and in particular their reproductive rhythms.

In short, in the face of abuse, government regulations have been put in place prohibiting boats from approaching closer than 50m. Speed must be reduced, noise minimized and service providers must hold a specialized permit. At the same time, the Mauritius Marine Conservation Society (MMCS) has introduced a sustainable dolphin-watching management program. While this awareness is commendable, it is unfortunately neither sufficient nor widespread. It's up to each and every one of us to be vigilant and demand that our skippers comply fully with the regulations in place. It's not just the well-being of Tamarin's dolphins that's at stake.

Faced with so many service providers, the question arises: which company should I choose? Local fishermen in and around the villages of Tamarin offer their services on a half-day or full-day basis. But it's a bit hit-or-miss, and few skippers are motivated by marine zoology more than by the lure of a quick buck. For a serious, professional service, turn to Adrien's Dream, JP Henri Charters Ltd, Kissen, Karlos Excursions - all companies based in the west, not far from the bay; or opt for a catamaran cruise with one of the Black River providers. For an encounter with the Morne dolphin group (not all the mammals are in Tamarin), turn to Vitamin Sea (in Rivière Noire). For a gentler (but less "guaranteed") sea-kayaking experience, go to Lokal Adventure (departing directly from Tamarin beach).