BAZAAR MARKET OF PORT MATHURIN

By 12:30, it's all but over! The villagers from Maréchal, La Ferme, Saint Gabriel and surrounding areas pack up, and there's almost nothing left of the woven-fiber items, herbs, spices, fruit, vegetables, pastries, jams, jars and other local produce, which each vendor had taken care to display in the area appropriate to his or her type of product.... as in the days when the bazaar was held in the streets, before the construction of this covered space which, oh miracle, has lost none of its original charm and has remained friendly, colorful and full of life. Perhaps the magic lies in the scent of freshly-picked herbs and fruit, the accordion tune that sometimes wafts in the sea breeze, the incessant chatter, the line-up of beautiful faces behind the stalls covered with delicacies from Rodrigues...

On the outskirts, as if in a row of onions, stand the partially refrigerated stalls of meat, poultry and fish vendors - sensitive souls please refrain! In the center are the market gardeners, in a large hall open to the four winds, where each vendor has a "carré" (stand) rented for the year, where they display the produce from their vegetable garden, including the famous and succulent local limons. All around, you'll find jars, dried ourites, achards, piment-limons etc., from Leonita Perrine from Citron Denis, Yolande Bégué from Soupir, Doloresse Clair from Anse Raffin... not forgetting the delicious pies from Rodrigues and sweet preparations made from honey, dried fruit, coconut etc.

YES, it's all very cheerful, and we're happy to let the hours fly by...

A few steps away, you'll find open-air, low-priced food from street vendors (tables and benches, street food trailers) gathered in a dirt square.

Practical tip: if you don't live in Port Mathurin, it's a good idea to get to the Saturday market by local bus, some of which run very early in the morning. You'll have to get up very early, but you'll be travelling in vehicles packed with people from Rodrigues loaded with huge baskets of fruit and vegetables: a change of scenery guaranteed!

For the record, it's worth noting that, even though it's now rare, the less fortunate Rodriguans still go to the market on foot, carrying their produce on their backs. Those coming from the western end have to set off around midnight to arrive in time for the opening and have the best chance of selling everything.