In Andalusia, the province of Jaén is a territory that does not fail to surprise. On the one hand, its nature, with olive groves as far as the eye can see and natural parks with fascinating reliefs and geological formations. It is also a territory rich in an extraordinary heritage, with castles, palaces, cathedrals and charming towns that invite you to get lost in the alleys full of history. The Renaissance is one of the currents that saw the construction of absolutely remarkable monuments, under the impulse of the architect Andrés de Vandelvira. The Renaissance architecture is particularly present in two jewels of Jaen: Úbeda and Baeza. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and are definitely two of the most important stops on a trip to the province in northeast Andalusia.
Brief history of the Renaissance in the province of Jaén
In the province of Jaen, a style has developed and stood out in the fields of art, architecture and culture. It is the Renaissance, with a period that extends chronologically from the beginning of the sixteenth century to a large part of the seventeenth century. This trend spread due to the urban development of the territory of the former kingdom and diocese of Jaen. At that time, three cities had more than 15,000 inhabitants: Jaén, Úbeda and Baeza. The demography of the territory continued to grow, as the region was a stronghold of cereal and animal crops. Later on, craft activities were developed, such as pottery, textiles and construction. And then, logically, trade and services.
From the 16th century onwards, the nobility and especially the clergy played a major role in the configuration of the towns and villages and in the development of culture. The Renaissance style was imposed with the renovation of the cathedrals of Jaén and Baeza and parish temples, but also with the construction of numerous houses and palaces decorated by talented stonemasons.
The Renaissance style is carried by the hand of an architect in particular, Andrés de Vandelvira. He is, along with Siloe and Hernán Ruiz II, one of the three fundamental names of Renaissance architecture in Andalusia. Many of his works continue to sublimate the cities of Úbeda and Baeza, classified as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO and unmissable stops in the province of Jaén for lovers of beautiful stones
Stopover in Úbeda
Those interested in Renaissance architecture should definitely visit Úbeda, in the region of La Loma. It is simply one of the most important ensembles of this style in Europe, a place to look up at any moment to marvel at a large number of churches, palaces and stately homes.
After leaving the nerve center of Úbeda, the Calle Real, we take the streets that lead to one of the most outstanding places in the city, the Plaza Vázquez de Molina. It is here that we can find Renaissance nuggets, such as the sacred chapel of El Salvador de El Mundo, the palace of the Deán Ortega, the town hall, the palace of the Marquis of Mancera and the church of Santa María de los Reales Alcáceres. Yes, the Plaza Vázquez de Molina is one of the most beautiful squares in the Old World.
Still under the prism of architecture, we continue to the Hospital de Santiago, another sublime 16th-century monument and one of the most important Renaissance hospitals in Spain. The frescoes that adorn the vaults of the sacristy, the church and the anteroom of the sacristy are magnificent and one of the most beautiful examples of Renaissance painting.
As you walk through the streets of Úbeda, you will notice that many stately homes stand side by side with prestigious buildings. Among these are the palaces of the Salvajes, the Counts of Guadiana and Vela de los Cobos. The latter is named after one of the illustrious figures who contributed to the development of the Renaissance in Úbeda. One of the most striking elements of the walk is the mixture of styles, with Jewish elements, as in the Synagogue of the Water, but also Muslims and Mudéjar. The Casa Mudéjar is a place of interest that houses the Archaeological Museum of the city.
Úbeda offers many other experiences to its visitors, such as enjoying beautiful views of the surrounding hills and olive groves, following the Redonda de Miradores walk or reaching the San Lorenzo lookout. You can't leave the town without visiting Valencia Street, the craftsmen's district.
Visit to Baeza
Baeza is located 9 km from Úbeda. In Baeza, you will discover a maze of cobbled streets with squares, palaces and houses decorated with coats of arms. The atmosphere is peaceful, as sweet as the verses of the poet Antonio Machado, a native of Seville who was also a professor at the old university of Baeza. Only a 10-minute walk separates three of the most beautiful squares. The first one, Santa Maria square, reveals the seminary of San Felipe Neri - surprising with its "graffiti" painted in the 16th and 17th centuries -, the city hall, a fountain and the remarkable cathedral. Andrés de Vandelvira participated in the design of this last building. In addition to the Renaissance elements, Gothic pillars, Mudejar chapels and Islamic arches catch the eye once inside.
In Santa Cruz Square, the richly ornamented facade of the Jabalquinto Palace is a sight to behold. With its gothic Isabeline style, its Renaissance patio, one simply wants to photograph it under all the angles. Then, after a few steps, we discover one of the most beautiful examples of late Romanesque of all Andalusia with the church of Santa Cruz.
Finally, we arrive at the Plaza del Pópulo, also known as the Plaza de los Lions. Here you can admire the fountain topped by the statue of Himilce, Iberian princess and wife of Hannibal. But also two gates, with the Arch of Villalar and the Gate of Jaén, the public registries, where the tourist office is located, and the old butcher shops.
Of course, another important square is a must-see, the Constitución, with its arcades, balconies, the Renaissance churches of San Pablo and San Andrès, and the ruins of the San Francisco convent. A place where people like to meet for a drink on the terrace
You'll leave Baeza satisfied: relaxed from strolling through peaceful streets with beautiful stones, such as Conde Romanones Street, but also satisfied from trying the local gastronomy, such as olive tapenade from the nearby olive groves, stuffed ochios or Baeza-style cod. For a sweet touch, we turn to the virolos, which go divinely well with coffee
Does the province of Jaén - and its close connection to the Renaissance - appeal to you? The region is quickly accessible from France, with a 2-hour and 20-minute flight from Paris to Granada-Jaen's Federico-García-Lorca airport. A 45-minute drive will take you to the province's capital, Jaen.
More information on the websites of Jaén Turismo and Vive Andalucia.