GORILLA TRACKING

Around forty-five gorillas live in the Mgahinga region. But in this "golden triangle" formed by Uganda, Rwanda and Congo, the animals know no borders and no one can predict their exact location. Today, however, two families (Nyakagezi I and Nyakagezi II) live almost permanently in the park, where cross-border groups are regularly observed. As the movements of these placid hominids are unpredictable, the Uganda Wildlife Authority does not normally issue permits for Mgahinga National Park in advance. For travellers unable to obtain a permit for Bwindi, this is the ultimate opportunity. Simply travel to Kisoro and enquire at the local UWA branch; allow a few days' patience and keep your fingers crossed. Park rangers keep a daily watch on the apes' movements. If the gorillas are there, you can buy your permit at the last minute and prepare for a 3-4 hour round-trip walk (less demanding than in Bwindi) to discover our giant cousins in the bamboo forests. Departure is at 8.30 a.m. from Ntebeko, the number of excursionists is limited to a maximum of eight, and the duration of the encounter with the great apes is strictly limited to one hour to minimize stress. This experience gives you an up-close look at the social life of these fascinating primates, who share almost 98% of their DNA with us.