ABBEY OF LA CHAISE-DIEU
Guided tour to discover an impressive abbey with the tomb of Clement VI and the Treasure Rooms at La Chaise-Dieu.
Set at an altitude of 1,080 m, on a granite hill, La Chaise-Dieu Abbey was founded by Saint Robert de Turlande. Built in Gothic style and founded in 1043 (at that time, La Chaise-Dieu was no more than a simple parish church), it really took shape in 1343, thanks to Pope Clement IV. This former monk, who had become a Benedictine monk at La Chaise-Dieu, had the existing Romanesque church demolished and financed the construction of a new, larger abbey church. It was here that he chose to be buried after his death in 1352. Located right in the center of La Chaise-Dieu, this abbey is rich in history. It is the jewel of the village and the pride of its inhabitants. Not to be missed:
The Saint-Robert abbey church. Built between 1344 and 1352 in the Gothic style, it has been a listed monument since 1840. Despite its apparent austerity, it is packed with treasures, including the tomb of Pope Clement VI. His marble recumbent tomb lies in the center of the nave. It is surrounded by 144 simple, austere stalls, veritable jewels of cabinet-making, which have been preserved in near-perfect condition. Admire the beautiful organ, typical of the French classical period, listed as a historic monument since 1849. The abbey church is an invitation to meditation.
The Danse macabre. Still in the abbey church, the impressive Danse macabre, 26 m long and spanning 3 panels, can be seen on the lower side of the abbey. Dating from the 15th century, this fresco is one of the few surviving dances of death in France, and is said to be the oldest in Europe. Against an ochre background, it depicts 23 white silhouettes, each about 1 m high. Between each of them stand out more disquieting figures: dancing skeletons that seem to take the living by the hand to carry them away. The danse macabre was a very popular motif in the late Middle Ages. It symbolizes the fact that we are all equal in the face of death, which takes all of us, young and old, regardless of gender, status or caste. The first panel represents the great of this world (popes, emperors, etc.), the second the bourgeois and the third the common people (hermits, children, etc.). The Danse macabre at La Chaise-Dieu Abbey is unfinished: it is thought that the work was interrupted in 1470, but it is not known why.
The Gothiccloister is well worth a visit. Built in the 16th century, the current cloister replaces the Romanesque cloister designed by Saint Robert. It forms the heart of the monastery. Unfortunately, the cloister of La Chaise-Dieu Abbey now comprises only two sides, the south and east galleries having been destroyed by fire before the French Revolution and vandalized in the 19th century. However, the washbasin used for the monks' ablutions can still be admired just inside the entrance to the former refectory.
The Penitents' chapel. Since the 19th century, the site of the monks' refectory has housed a chapel, now used as a winter parish church. Symbols of Christ's passion can be seen on the rostrum.
The Notre-Dame du Collège chapel, whose architectural coherence was restored in 2010. Here, 14 Flemish tapestries from the 16th century are presented, restored and beautifully illuminated, forming a priceless ensemble for their quality and iconography. Twelve of them form a complete suite, while the other two, probably from the same workshop, were commissioned by the abbot for more personal use.
The Clementine Tower. Intended by Pope Clement VI, it was completed by his nephew, Pope Gregory XI, at the end of the 14th century. It was therefore built after the abbey church, to which it is attached. The Clementine Tower, which served as both keep and granary, played a decisive role in 1562, when the abbey was invaded and sacked by the Huguenots. The monks took refuge here, and were able to withstand the attacks for several days, thanks to the oven and well that were built there.
The Echo Room. In this astonishing room, adorned with plant-patterned murals, it's possible to distinctly hear the whispers of a person positioned at one corner, if you're standing at the opposite corner. It's an amusing acoustic phenomenon that visitors can indulge in. Legend has it that this room was used by monks to confess lepers.
Since 2007, the abbey has been the subject of a vast renovation project. A new museographic tour has been set up to allow visitors to immerse themselves in these treasures. An optical theater film tells the story of the abbey's foundation, an optical projection plunges you into the special world of dances of death, a film presented by Stéphane Bern explains the history of the abbey, and another traces the restoration of the tapestries. Since 1966, La Chaise-Dieu Abbey has also been the setting for a major classical music festival, held every August. Primarily focused on sacred music, it also features a contemporary music repertoire and attracts some 25,000 people to each edition.
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