NEA PAPHOS ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

This 20-hectare archaeological site (Αρχαιολογικός Χώρος Νέας Πάφου/Archaiologikos Choros Neas Pafou, Nea Paphos Archaeological Site) is one of the most beautiful in the eastern Mediterranean. Bordered by the sea and renowned for its magnificent mosaics from the Roman period, it is the main feature of the three Paphos sites listed as Unesco World Heritage Sites since 1980, along with the Tombs of the Kings (2.8 km to the north) and Palaipaphos (in Kouklia). This is the center of the ancient city of Nea Paphos/Νέα Πάφος, founded in the late ^4th century BC by the Cypriot king Nicocles. The site is well laid out. But as it's vast, allow around 3h for a visit, avoiding the hottest hours and protecting yourself from the sun.

Entrance and visitor center. A map details a 14-point itinerary, from the ticket office to the Toumpallos hypogeum. A guided tour can be booked in advance, or a booklet sold on site. At the top of the steps, the visitors' center houses an information point, a store and an exhibition on the site's biodiversity. The latter compares the bird species still living here with those depicted on the vases, pottery and mosaics discovered during the excavations.

Villa d'Aiôn. Situated some 150 m west of the visitor center and protected by a modern structure, this Roman villa, built and modified between the ^3rd and^5th centuries, is home to some of the finest mosaics of antiquity. It owes its name to a 67^m2 mosaic depicting Aiôn, the god of Time in ancient Greek, Phoenician and Roman religions. Also known as the "Dionysus mosaic", the work covers the floor of a banquet hall. In the central section, Aiôn appears as the judge in a beauty contest between the Nereids Thetis, Doris and Galatea (sea nymphs) and Cassiopeia, Queen of Ethiopia. The latter wins, appearing half-naked, like Aphrodite emerging from the waters. Top left: Leda, seduced by Zeus in the guise of a swan. At top right, we witness the birth of Dionysus, who is entrusted to the care of Silenus Trophaeus (a small, old satyr, in the center). The bottom right is devoted to Apollo's triumph in the music contest with the satyr Marsyas (wearing the Phrygian cap), who had dared to challenge him. Finally, in the lower left-hand corner, the painting depicts the solemn procession of the young Dionysus. The ensemble blends symbols of the ancient religion and Christianity, which was then spreading to Cyprus. Dionysus is portrayed as the incarnation of wisdom, rather than the god of Wine and Joy.

Villa of Theseus. Near the villa of Aiôn to the south, this late ^3rd-century complex was the largest dwelling on Nea Paphos (9,600^m2). Seat of the Roman proconsul, the villa was rebuilt and inhabited until the early ^7th century. Some 1,400^m2 of ^3rd- and ^4th-century mosaics have been unearthed, with two main works depicting scenes from Greek mythology. The villa owes its name to the circular representation of Theseus killing the Minotaur. Three figures surround Theseus: behind him, an old man depicting King Minos' labyrinth in Crete; to his right, a woman symbolizing Crete; to his left, Ariadne, daughter of Minos, who helped Theseus escape the labyrinth. Further north, the floor of the room where the proconsul held his audiences is decorated with a mosaic depicting the birth of Achilles. His mother, Thetis, lies in the center, while his father, Peleus, sits on the left. A nurse is holding Achilles, preparing to give him his first bath. Behind Peleus appear the three Moires, the incarnations of Fate. This work is heavily influenced by Christianity: the composition is reminiscent of the depiction of Christ's birth and first bath in early Christian churches.

Villa of Orpheus. A few meters west of the Villa of Theseus, this late ^2nd-century Roman dwelling has suffered extensive looting. However, three mosaics have survived: Hercules fighting the Nemean lion, an Amazon on horseback and Orpheus taming wild beasts with his lyre.

Villa of Dionysus. Approximately 150 m north of the Villa of Theseus, this is the most spectacular villa on the site. Covered with a wooden structure, it comprises 40 rooms arranged around a patio, including 16 reception rooms decorated with late ^2nd-century mosaics, many depicting mythological scenes related to the god Dionysus. Of particular note is the Triumph of Dionysus mosaic (room^no. 4). It is composed of four panels. First, the mythological scene of Dionysus' triumphant return from his military campaign in India. The god sits on a chariot pulled by two panthers, with Silenus - his adoptive father - holding the reins. They are followed by a procession of Pan (god of the Crowd), a bound Indian slave and two Bacchae (priestesses of the cult of Dionysus). On either side, two small panels of the Dioscuri (children of Zeus) Castor and Pollux, gods of Hospitality and Navigation. Both are dressed in military garb, carrying spears and holding the reins of their horses. Finally, the central panel depicts a harvest scene.

Asclepiion. Approximately 150 m north of the Villa of Dionysus, the remains of this temple belong to the acropolis, the central and highest part of Nea Paphos, where you can also see the odeon, the agora and a modern lighthouse. Built in the ^2nd century, the Asclepion was dedicated to the god of medicine, Asclepius. Built around a square courtyard, it was used as a healing center. The strange "therapeutic hot-water bottles" discovered here and on display at the Paphos Archaeological Museum bear witness to this.

Odeon. Just north of the Asclepion, this semicircular ^2nd-century theater was the venue for poetry and music competitions. It was completely rebuilt in 1993.

Agora. Opposite the Odeon, this "market square" was the heart of the city from the ^2nd century B.C. Forming a 95 m square, it offers little to see today apart from a few columns.

Lighthouse. Near the odeon to the west, this lighthouse - which cannot be visited - was erected in 1888 by the British. It is one of the main landmarks for ships off Paphos. Standing atop a small hill, 16 m above sea level and 20 m high, it emits a beam of light every 15 seconds at nightfall. According to archaeologists, this is where the center of the acropolis was located.

Northwest gate. Built in the ^2nd century AD, this gate (150 m north of the lighthouse) is one of the few surviving elements of the ancient city's defensive system.

Toumpallos. At the extreme northeast of the site, 300 m northeast of the agora, this group of cavities in the ground offers some shade. This was a hypogeum, or underground sanctuary. In fact, it's the largest of its kind in the Mediterranean region. With its vast network of tunnels and rooms cut into the rock, some decorated with mosaics, it was used from the ^4th century BC onwards, then transformed into a place of Christian worship with the construction of a chapel eight centuries later.

Saranta Kolones Castle. Returning to the entrance, 150 m north of the ticket office, this castle of "Forty Columns" owes its name to its many granite columns. The site was fortified at the end of the ^7th century by the Byzantines. To this end, materials were taken from the agora, including the columns. The Lusignans then transformed it into a fortified castle. A moat was dug around a square courtyard measuring 35 m on each side, and walls 3 m thick were erected. The ensemble was reinforced by four corner towers, four intermediate towers on each wall and a gate on the east side. Destroyed by an earthquake in 1222, the castle was abandoned. Imposing ruins now stand amidst the frail vaults of an ancient basilica.