CITADELLE

The Citadel, or Gran Castello, was built by the Knights in the ^15th century. The Citadel's north side dates back to the Aragonese period, while the south side was rebuilt under the Knights of St. John, between 1599 and 1603. From its hilltop position, the Citadel kept watch over the whole island, defending it against Ottoman attackers and frequent pirate raids. Until 1637, all the island's inhabitants made their way to the citadel at sunset, where they spent the night, safe from attack. By the ^18th century, its defensive role had come to an end, and the citadel was abandoned. You'll notice the arches supporting the ceilings and exterior vaults: the limestone beams can't exceed 1.50 m without risking cracking.

The Visitor Center. Since the Citadel's renovation, the city's former water reservoirs have been converted into a small museum of the Citadel and Victoria. After taking in the various museographical elements, a show takes you through a dark tunnel to discover Calypso (or rather, her hologram), followed by an 8-minute 3D projection on the ancient walls of the reservoir, where you'll be taken through Gozo's history.

The ramparts. From here, there are beautiful views of the sea and neighboring villages: Zebbug, Marsalforn and its hill, Xaghra and its church and, in the far east, Qala. To the southeast, we can make out Xewkija and, almost in line, Comino and Malta. From the bastion of San Michele, you can see the cathedral's dome, the dome of Xewkija's church and, less clearly, the headquarters of one of the two brass band clubs, the Stella, with its small dome and flag, as well as the theater of the other, the Astra.

The moat. They have been uncovered since the renovation, which was accompanied by the creation of new flowered areas. With a view to modernization, many events and concerts are now held in the former moat, with its unreal acoustics and majestic setting.

The grain silos. On the ramparts, an interesting World War II shelter in former grain silos used to supply the lord's court in case of siege. The narrow tunnels lead to three huge oval caves carved in stone, with openings at the top for pouring grain and, during the war, water. The echo is fantastic...

Along the streets. Lose yourself in the winding lanes - at night, the spectacle is even more magical - and you'll stumble across the historic chapel of Saint Joseph and a number of sacred niches and bas-reliefs. Pay close attention to the well-preserved Norman-style windows and arches, and the coats of arms inlaid on the facades of historic houses and churches.

Craftsmanship. Gourmet stores sell cheeses, honeys, nougats and wines, including the typical cittadella (red or white). Through the open doors of some stores, you can see women busy with lace-making. Near the little ^16th-century chapel of San Giuseppe, a pretty old house displays interesting local objects, weapons and traditional tools. Near the bastion, in a side street, jewelry, lace and candle makers set up shop.