CO-CATHÉDRALE SAINT-JEAN (ST JOHN'S CO-CATHEDRAL)

Guarded by two sturdy bronze cannons, it's one of the city's masterpieces, for its historical and architectural value. And if you're only going to visit once, this is the one to choose. An inscription near the side entrance, through which the knights entered, reminds us mortals of the brevity of our passage on earth: "You who walk on the dead, remember that one day you will be walked on" Built between 1575 and 1577, St. John's Co-Cathedral was designed by Gerolamo Cassar. It is his masterpiece. It was financed by Grand Master Jean l'Evesque de La Cassière and dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, patron saint of the Order. At the time, Malta's cathedral was Saint-Paul de Mdina. In 1816, under English rule, Pope Pius VII granted it the status of co-cathedral, a remarkable status given that few dioceses have two cathedrals. Consecrated on February 20, 1578, it was enriched for two centuries by each of the grand masters, who were required to make a donation on election. The exterior is sober, with a simple, symmetrical façade and Doric columns framing the entrance.

Note the three clocks on the right pediment, indicating the day, date and time. Opposite the building is a small square, guarded by a bust of Enrico Mizzi, where you'll find it pleasant to lounge under a parasol after your visit.

While the exterior appears almost austere, the interior is sumptuous and extremely ornate, having been extensively decorated by Mattia Preti at the height of the Baroque period (carved stone walls, etc.). The high, majestic vaults and the marble floor under which the knights sleep give the cathedral an atmosphere of great solemnity... In all, over 400 knightly tombs in red, white and black marble, with skeletons and coats of arms.

The workmanship of the marble, imported from Italy, most often from Carrara, is impressive in the co-cathedral. Following the work, the marble tradition is still very much alive on the island, although this material, absent from Malta, is necessarily imported. Although it is no longer possible to be buried with the great masters in St. John's Co-Cathedral, it is still possible to have a marble tombstone made in Mdina Cathedral.

Oratory Museum. The Co-Cathedral Museum houses Caravaggio's famous painting, The Beheading of St. John (1608), on display in the oratory. The ultimate work of Malta's greatest painter, it is said to be the only painting to bear the artist's signature (visible in the blood of St. John).

The museum also features 28 Flemish tapestries from the ^17th and ^18th centuries. One series illustrates the story of Christ, the others are allegories. Based on designs by Rubens and a drawing by Poussin for The Last Supper, they were once used to decorate the interior of the cathedral. Only one tapestry depicts the man who commissioned them, Grand Master Perellos Roccaful, but all bear his coat of arms. All the gifts he made to the cathedral are recorded in embroidery. The museum also houses priestly vestments and silverware, which escaped Napoleonic plunder in 1798.