"Ari-que-pay" in Quechua, an indigenous Peruvian language, means "Yes, you can stay". And we're in for a treat: Peru's second largest city, after Lima, its most chaotic capital, charms with its cultural, gastronomic and natural assets. Located in the far south, in the foothills of the Cordillera, at an altitude of 2 335 metres, Arequipa is often the first Andean puff of a stay in Peru. Its reasonable altitude and mild climate make it a perfect stopover to acclimatize to the altitude. With its 850,000 souls, Arequipa remains provincial and peaceful. The region itself combines volcanoes and canyons, including those of Colca and Cotahuasi, deeper than the Grand Canyon of Colorado. Terraced crops, green valleys and thermal springs: its wide open spaces are less frequented than the Sacred Valley of the Incas and Cusco. If you get away from the beaten track, you will find yourself alone in the world in an unspoilt natural setting or in the heart of villages with lively folklore.
A prosperous history
Arequipa owes its unique character to the "sillar": a white volcanic stone extracted from nearby quarries that served as construction material for its main monuments, churches and casonas, these large colonial residences that bear witness to its wealth. Since 1540 and its foundation, Arequipa has always flourished: first by marketing silver extracted from the Potosi mines (located in present-day Bolivia), then, at XIXe siècle, thanks to alpaca wool. The historic centre is full of chic boutiques (El Ekeko or La Casona Santa Catalina) where you can buy ponchos, scarves and hats with an incomparable softness and warmth. Free and didactic, you can also visit the manufacturing workshops. Even the many earthquakes did not defeat the proud White Lady. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, the historic centre of Arequipa has little to envy the very popular Cusco
A unique colonial heritage
Around an immaculate cathedral, its Place d'Armes, its fountain, its palm trees and its pigeons, the centre extends over about ten "cuadras" or streets. You can discover it on foot, alone or with a guide. Its jewel is the Santa Catalina Monastery. As early as 1570, young girls from good families lived a monastic life there. At the end of the morning, the sun perfectly illuminates its maze of corridors and patios in ochre and deep blue tones, its arcades and their almost childish frescos. Around the Plaza de Armas are the casonas that compete: Casa Moral, Goyoneche or Tristan del Pozo and their elaborate portals. To the south, the Claustro de la Compañia houses a series of checkered patios, fountains, shops and a few cafés. The Iglesia de la Compañia has an exuberant baroque façade and a dome with exotic ornate motifs. Strolling through the centre also means feeling the atmosphere of the San Camilo market, designed by Gustave Eiffel. On the other side of the Chilean river, we arrive on the heights of Yanahuara. From its viewpoint, we embrace the old town covered by the Misti volcano, its 5,822 metres and its discreet snow cap. Yanahuara is the ideal place to discover the local cuisine
A gastronomic signature
Its picanterías, small traditional restaurants typical of the city, such as Sol de Mayo or La Nueva Palomino, serve creamy soups of wild shrimp (chupe de camarones) or a famous chilli pepper stuffed with minced meat (rocoto relleno). Arequipa also has its share of chic restaurants. It is here that the gastro-bar Chi Cha was born, designed by Gaston Acurio, Peru's most renowned chef. For example, veal osso buco is cooked in chicha, the fermented corn drink of the Incas. Zig Zag offers specialities cooked with lava stone. Very chic period casonas house pisco bars (distilled grapes whose vines grow along the South Coast). And two artisanal chocolate factories were created
Under the protection of volcanoes
Fortunately, Arequipa offers plenty to burn all these calories. In 3 hours you can raft down the Chile River, and in 6 hours you can cycle down the fringes of the Chachani volcano (6,075 metres). The city has its revered guardians (apus in Quechua): Misti, Chachani and Pichu Pichu. The agencies offer Misti or Chachani climbing in 2 days -1 night. The Misti is the most impressive: the final ascent is made in the early morning, at the right time to see the city discovered when the dawn pushes back the shadow of the volcano. A final challenge, more technical this one, is the climbing of the Ampato and its 6 380 meters. It was in the fringes of this volcano that the mummy Juanita was discovered in 1995: an Inca teenager sacrificed to the god of the mountains. This "Ice Princess" awaits you intact at the Santuarios Andinos Museum in Arequipa. Leaving the city, the most classic excursion crosses the Salinas de Aguas Blancas reserve. On these immense open plains graze all the Andean camelids on the postcards: the stocky lama, the chubby alpaca and the gracious vicuna. Between March and June the flamingos land on the small salt lake of Salinas, in the shade of Pichu Pichu and Ubinas. Visitors walk along the 350,000 hectares of this reserve on their way to the other essential of the region: the Colca Canyon and its 3,430 metres deep that condors fly over
Colca Canyon is a must see
Colca is undoubtedly the reference destination for visitors. After about 4 hours of driving, including a passage at 4,910 metres, at the Patapampa pass, we reach Chivay at an altitude of 3,633 metres, the first of the 14 villages. This canyon owes its fame to the Cruz del Condor. Around 8am, when the sun warms their feathers, the condors start from here for a majestic ballet. The viewpoint is accessible by minibus. Trekkers will descend the 1,500 metres of zigzag to the bottom of the canyon and the "Sangalle Oasis" where you can find basic campsites or bungalows and fresh pools. The ideal is to do it over two days to go back to the early morning, in the cool. The network of paths and villages of the Canyon is much more extensive: in 3 to 4 days you can enjoy treks alone with the depths
Along the canyon, you can ride between the Andean terraces. Or climb to the fortress of Chimpa or Uyo Uyo, ruins of the pre-Columbian culture Collagua. Adventurers will opt for the village of Pinchollo and the Hualca Hualca Volcano Route (6,025 metres) and its geysers. The dilettantes will appreciate Chivay, Yanque or Coporaque which offer accommodation from basic to luxurious and various hot springs to relax in
Folklore richness and secret territories
The Canyon has preserved its authenticity. Traditional outfits embroidered and coloured like fine lace are always worn with pride. Wititi dance was included in UNESCO's intangible heritage last December. We attend this slightly saucy parade every morning, at 6:00 am sharp, on the Plaza de Yanque. Apart from Chivay, which is more commercial, the villages scattered around the Canyon all have a strong identity. A favourite for Sibayo or Rumillacta in Quechua (the stone village) and its stays with the locals. Lovers of virgin territories also have a wide range of choices. About twenty kilometres from Chivay is Mount Mismi. At the foot of its 5,597 metres is the source of the world's largest river: the Amazon. Expeditions went there in 2000 and specialized agencies offer it. Not to mention the Cotahuasi Canyon, a night's journey away, but 100 metres deeper than its famous rival: 3,535 metres and the same Andean terraces, thermal baths, stone forest, waterfalls and condors. It is better to organise your visit because there are not many public transport but, on the spot, there are small honest pensions and a country hotel. Unlike Colca, you will be alone in the world. Ideal for those who like to bring a different postcard from their travels
Smart info
When? When? Arequipa is located in the southern sierra of Peru and enjoys a temperate climate. From January to the end of March, watch out for frequent rainfall. Best period: from May to August, cold at night but intense blue skies during the day.
Getting there. By bus, it takes about 18 hours from Lima the capital with the company Cruz del Sur. Or an hour and a half by plane.
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