PARQUE ARQUEOLÓGICO DE PÍSAQ

The site of Pisaq is a good alternative for those who are put off by the oppressive mass of tourists flocking to Machu Picchu. If you go to the site early enough, you will have the chance to be almost alone and you may see hummingbirds gorging on cantuta in the thickets, in which case you should make the opening. Ideally, you should be able to visit the archaeological site in the afternoon against the flow of the rest of the tourists. Most of the tour agencies make several visits in the Sacred Valley and start with Pisaq.

Smaller, but no less incredible, these ruins offer an equally fantastic dive into Inca culture. From the village, the ascent allows to discover little by little the valley and the confluence of the Urubamba river and its tributary the Wilcamayu, by taking the path that leaves next to the church of the Plaza de la Constitucion (at the gatehouse, you show your boleto). You will discover steep terraces (still cultivated) that make you dizzy. These terraces were first dug to stabilize the mountain. Then they were cultivated. After having gone along them, we discover the ingenious system of canalisations, and before arriving at Pisaqa (where the food of the citadel city was stored), we notice on the right many holes in the mountain. It is in reality the cemetery (vertical) of the city. If you look carefully, you can see (on the right) a small building where a mummy was recently found! This young woman was on her knees, her hands clenched as if from scratching. It is assumed that she had been badly drugged, that she woke up and died of suffocation.

Nearby, a path leads to two high adobe houses with cane roofs. Higher still, the ceremonial centre of Intihuatana wraps its carved stone walls around the Temple of the Sun, enclosing the solar calendar. The end of the tunnel cut into the mountain can be seen, only to be passed in single file and broken in two; this improbable access made the temple unreachable. Beyond is a complex called Q'allaq'ana, with pools and fountains, and then the residential area of Q'anchisraq'ay, entirely fortified with a crenellated wall. If you have less time, a good idea is to take a taxi up to the village and walk back down. The magic of the site lies in its size and its harmony with the surrounding landscape.