VISITE DU PARC TSAVO OUEST

Tsavo East and Tsavo West together form one of the largest national parks in the world, covering 4% of Kenya's total area. Although less visited than their neighbors, they are just as beautiful and fascinating. The western part of the park covers an area of 9,000 km² and is characterized by an arid and rugged landscape, with altitudes of up to 1,000 m. It has a network of well-maintained trails. If you stay on the main roads around Kilaguni, you can visit the park with a two-wheeler. If it rains or if you want to take secondary tracks, the 4x4 is necessary. You should also know that the park is very well signposted, which does not prevent you from getting lost from time to time.

North of the park. This part gathers all the lodges and the centers of interest. Around Kilaguni are the most popular places for excursions. Mzima Springs is the main attraction in Tsavo West. The place looks like a green oasis, especially refreshing after long hours of dusty trails. Amidst the lush vegetation, millions of cubic meters of crystal clear water gush through the volcanic rock. Some of this water feeds the city of Mombasa directly through a 250 km pipeline, but most of it forms a series of small lakes where dozens of hippos and a few crocodiles frolic. A small pathway runs along the shoreline and allows you to admire these big beasts up close and in complete safety. An underwater observatory has even been built in order to observe their behavior underwater. Unfortunately, hippos and crocodiles only pass by the shelter in exceptional cases. If you are traveling with your own vehicle, you should visit this site in the late afternoon or at lunch time to avoid the crowds. Around noon, you may have the chance to have a quiet picnic in the shade of the large acacia trees, just disturbed by a few vervets or baboons. Not far from Mzima Springs, Chaimu Crater and Roaring Rock can be excellent goals for two short pleasant walks among beautiful views. The Chaimu Crater is a huge volcanic cone entirely covered with black lava. You can park at the foot of the cone and reach the summit by a path. Roaring Rock is constituted of an astonishing rocky heap. Before you set out to climb the peaks, make sure that no wild animals intend to make the ascent with you. Also near Kilaguni, but on the border with the Chyulu Hills, is the amazing Shetani Lava Flow. It is a spectacular black lava flow that crosses the track connecting Amboseli to Tsavo. Accompanied by a ranger (information at the Chyulu Gate), you take a small trail that winds through a rather hostile nature and visit some caves (bring a flashlight). Much further east, between Ngulia Lodge and Tsavo Gate, you can enter (only between 4 and 6 pm) the Rhino Sanctuary. The Kenyan authorities have gathered in this 70 km² sanctuary about 40 black rhinos. The area, surrounded by an electrified fence, is under 24-hour surveillance. Several trails crisscross this huge enclosure where you have a great chance of spotting one of these elusive big animals (beware of their sometimes unfriendly reactions).

South of the park. This is a huge, almost desert-like plain in which you can drive for hours without encountering a single vehicle. At the southern end, along the border, is Lake Jipe. It is supplied with water all year round by the eternal snows of Kilimanjaro. The surrounding vegetation is a little denser, the animals are often more numerous and the view of Kilimanjaro and the Pare Mountains is superb. There are several trails to the lake. If you enter through Maktau Gate, head south, then immediately right. This trail cuts through the park (nice but long way). Two other trails near Taveta take you to the lake. The main trail is just before town and leads to the north shore of the lake via Grogan's Castle. This castle, built in the 1930s by a wealthy British army colonel, is an incredibly anachronistic and incongruous sight. The askari (the janitor) can eventually give you a tour (to be negotiated). North of Taveta, outside the park boundaries, is Lake Chala. Nestled at the bottom of a crater at the foot of Kilimanjaro, it is located in an agricultural area covered with sisal plantations. One can walk on the crater ridge and enjoy a magnificent view of Kilimanjaro. Moreover, it is a convenient stopover if you want to go to Amboseli from Taveta.

Good to know. There are basically three camping sites near the main gates. One near Mtito Andei, one near Tsavo Gate, and the best one at Chyulu Gate. This last one, shaded and well located, allows to go for dinner at the nearby Kilaguni Lodge.