VISITE DE MOMBASA

With its maze of narrow streets at the foot of the imposing, intact Fort Jesus, the old town doesn't offer much in the way of interest, but it's well worth a visit for its ambience and its last residences with carved doors, of which unfortunately only a hundred or so remain. Today, these doors are the object of special care and protection. This is not the case for the houses, which are sometimes in an advanced state of disrepair. Few of them are made entirely of coral, and Makuti roofs have been replaced by corrugated iron. Despite the almost thousand-year-old history of the old town, most of these houses are no more than a century old.

Early in the morning and late in the afternoon, there's a hustle and bustle in this district that contrasts with the torpor of mid-day. But whatever the time of day, it's a pleasure to stroll through the cool, narrow streets that, less than a century ago, were home to Indian merchants (Ndia Kuu Street) and colonial officers and civil servants (Mbarak Hinawy Road). In the heart of the old town, Government Square was home to the colonial administration, banks and consulates. Today, these have been replaced by souvenir stores. The old port, which you can visit, has retained its original activity.

Don't miss a visit to the religious monuments of this culturally-charged city. The colorful Swaminarayan Hindu temple (Haile Selassie Road), the Sikh temple (Mwembe Tayari Road) and the Hare Krishna temple (Sautiya Kenya Road) are all open to you. The mosques in the old town are magnificently traditional, but unfortunately closed to the non-Muslim public. The Christian churches are also worth a visit, on Nyerere Avenue Holy Ghost Cathedral, and on Nkrumah Road the Mombasa Memorial Cathedral. In the evening, it's not advisable to wander around the old town on your own. Instead, enlist the services of one of the many guides who are sure to be happy to help.

Good to know. For those tempted by a walk on the barrier reef at low tide, it's important to know that not only is shellfish and coral collecting forbidden, but many varieties of shellfish, such as certain cones, project stings containing neurotoxic substances. Some fish (lionfish, scorpionfish, rabbitfish, catfish, etc.) have venomous dorsal spines; just admire them. Remember to protect yourself from sunburn too.