GANDAN MONASTERY

This is Mongolia's largest monastery, and therefore one of Ulan Bator's must-see sights. Built from 1810 onwards on the initiative of the^4th Bogd Khan, Gandantegchenling (abbreviated Gandan) monastery was originally located in the center of the city, before being moved permanently to its present location in 1838 by the^5th Bogd Khan. Its construction was carried out in several phases. The first to be completed was the Vajradhara temple (1840-1841) to the northeast of the small enclosure, followed by the Züu temple (1869), the Didan Lavran (completed in 1904) and the largest, the Mejid Janraiseg (built in 1911-1912).
Like all the country's monasteries, Gandan suffered from the religious repression of the late 1930s, but remained in operation almost without interruption, making it the only active temple at the time. It did not escape partial destruction, however, and underwent several renovations and reconstructions in the early 1990s.

Janraiseg Temple. The most-visited temple in the complex is the Janraiseg Temple (admission is charged). It is the tallest (42 m). It stands opposite the southern entrance. It houses an imposing 26 m-high copper statue. The statue is a recent addition to the temple, having been installed in 1996 thanks to Japanese and Nepalese donations. It replaces the original statue, sculpted in bronze and gold by order of the Bogd Khan in 1911, but destroyed by the Russians in 1937 and sent in pieces to Leningrad, where it was melted down to enable the precious metal to be reused. Consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 1996, the new statue is adorned with precious stones and contains 27 tonnes of medicinal herbs, hundreds of sutras (religious books) and a large number of cloths covered with mantras (Buddhist formulas). The inner walls of the temple are lined with a multitude of small statues representing Ayush, the Buddha of longevity.

A monastery in the heart of a monastery. As you enter the monastery through the south gate, you can see five enclosed buildings on the right. They are surrounded by a yellow-painted wall. Here you'll find the famous Buddhist library. Once used as a prayer temple, it houses no less than a million sutras, mainly in Mongolian and Tibetan. The oldest temple, Vajradhara, is also located here. It houses a statue of Vajradhara, known as the "primordial Buddha", sculpted in 1683 by Zanabazar, painter, sculptor and the country's first Bogd Khan.

Still within this enclosure, two smaller sanctuaries stand out, the Orchidary Süm and the Golden Dedenpovaran Süm, known for its typically Mongolian architecture. A separate room, in front of the temples, houses the traditional pharmacy, where monks provide basic consultations and prescribe mixtures of medicinal plants.

Morning ceremony. Religious ceremonies take place every morning in the monastery's various temples. They attract large numbers of Mongolians, young and old, and are undoubtedly the best time to visit this monastery, which is the heart of Mongolian Buddhism. More than 900 monks take part in its daily activities today. A guide is recommended, especially for those new to Mongolia who want a good introduction to Buddhism. Please note that photography is not permitted during the ceremonies.