DJEMILA ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

To come to Algeria without visiting the archaeological site of Djemila would be a serious mistake. You'll be absolutely stunned by the site's beauty, its tranquility amidst the mountains and its incredibly well-preserved remains. It covers a large area, so don't forget good walking shoes and plenty of time: allow 2-3 hours if you want to see everything and take the guided tour (guides are available at the ticket office, so don't hesitate to ask).

The site was excavated by French archaeologists between 1901 and 1957, but some 40 ha of the 75 ha of the city remain buried.

The tour begins with the museum, before entering the Christian section, built between the ^4th and^5th centuries. The baptistry and basilicas were at the center of public life. A little further down on the right, a small path allows you to take a detour to observe the remarkably well-preserved theater from the top of the hill. From this vantage point, you can admire the arched tiers of seats. Dating from 162 AD, the theater could seat up to 3,000 spectators.

Continue on to the imposing Septimian temple, dedicated to Septimius Severus and erected at the top of a wide staircase overlooking the Place des Sévères or New Forum. This vast esplanade, dating from the ^2nd and ^3rd centuries A.D., was laid out on a 3,200^m2 slope. The street running northeast leads to the theater.

Back on the new forum, you reach the old city to the north, built in the ^1st and ^2nd centuries A.D. Here you can see the forum, recognizable by its regular paving, the temple of Venus Genetrix and a temple surrounded by Corinthian columns. To the north of the forum, the Capitol was a colossal edifice where the cult of Jupiter, Juno and Minerva was celebrated on an altar reserved for sacrifices. Its bas-reliefs are evocative. As you enter the sanctuary, you'll see the impressive bust of Jupiter: the statue was 14 m high!

Next door, the Cosinus market features a rectangular hall surrounded by marble columns and stone counters marking the entrance to the stores. A measuring table is pierced by three cavities of different sizes for measuring grain and liquids.

The House of Europa, a wealthy residence where a mosaic depicting the abduction of the beautiful woman was found, and the House of Castor, which housed private thermal baths, are examples of the wealthy dwellings found in this part of the city.

Leaving the primitive city, take the column-lined Cardo Maximus back to the Piazza dei Severi, dominated by the Septimian Temple and Caracalla's triumphal arch to the southwest. In 1839, the arch was almost transferred to Paris, but the Duc d'Orléans' wish was never granted. As you walk up the street to the grand thermal baths, don't miss the conical fountain, the only one of its kind in the world.

The tour ends with the Baths of Emperor Commodus, built in 183 AD and covering an area of 2,600^m2. The complex comprises a number of rooms laid out symmetrically. These include a gymnasium, changing rooms and water rooms - sudarium, laconicum, caldarium, tepidarium and frigidarium.

Next door, the 6,000^m2 Villa de Bacchus is the largest on the site. A mosaic depicting the god of wine has been found here, and is currently housed in the museum.