ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE COMPLEX

The forum and theater marked the epicenter of commercial and cultural life in the days of the Roman Empire. In Philadelphia, at one time considered the capital of the Roman province of Arabia, the theater backed onto Jebel el-Taj and was preceded by a huge square that served as the main meeting point and market place. On its eastern side, a smaller theater, the Odeon, closed the square. Today, the Roman theater houses two museums: the Museum of Popular Traditions and the Museum of Folklore.

The Forum. Access to the Roman amphitheatre complex is via the ancient forum. This huge, open square, now lined with trees, was one of the largest in the Roman Empire. It measures 100 x 50 meters. It was enclosed to the north by the Great Theater and the Taj Hill, and to the east by the small Odeon Theater. It was also lined with colonnades for merchants, of which today only a single row remains in front of the main theater. Major thoroughfares led to the Forum, in particular the cardo maximus, the main north-south road found in every Roman decapolis. The city's population used to gather here. In fact, it's still a lively place where the inhabitants of the lower town gather, especially on summer evenings. They enjoy the terraces, where Egyptian soccer matches are shown, or simply sit and chat on the steps leading down to the esplanade. You'll notice a ticket office on the right as you enter the site. This is where you pay the ticket price for the Roman Theatre or present your Jordan Pass.

Roman Theatre. Your steps will lead you directly to the imposing Roman Theatre, set against the jebel El-Taj. From the top of its tiers, you can look back on 20 centuries of history. Its construction dates back to the reign of Antoninus Pius (138-161), reputed to be one of the most peaceful rulers the Roman Empire had ever known. The theater could accommodate up to 6,000 spectators. Carved out of the mountain, it met the standards of Roman theaters of the time. From the beginning of the modern era, the Romans finalized their theatrical construction methods, moving in particular to permanent stone construction. Unlike ancient Greek theaters, Roman theaters were enclosed by a stage wall that rose to the height of the tiers. The semicircular shape of the tiers, known as cavea, was preserved for acoustic and visual reasons. The spectator sees and hears everything, whether seated in the front or back row. The cavea of the Amman theater is divided into three levels. The lower level(prima cavea) was reserved for rulers and patricians. The middle tier(media cavea) was occupied by members of the army, while the civilian population occupied the last ranks(summa cavea). You'll notice a niche at the very top of the terraces. It housed a statue of the goddess Athena, now in the Royal Jordan Museum. Each floor is delimited by a praecinctio, a passageway that allowed people to move around. The slope of the tiers was particularly well thought-out, generally inclined at 30°. In particular, it was designed to allow sound to travel upwards without reverberating, and to allow people to sit down without being disturbed by the person in front. The pit, or orchestra, is surrounded by bleachers and faces the raised stage. Actors came to stand in the niches(pulpitum) at the foot of the stage during long tirades or for certain dialogues. The columns along the stage served as a street backdrop, while the stage wall represented a palace and was used as a backdrop for interior scenes. Access to the interior is via a passageway leading off either end of the orchestra. For years, the theater was the site of a vast excavation project. Now restored, it is sometimes the setting for traditional dance and music performances in summer (ask at the tourist office).

The Folklore Museum. On the left as you enter the theater. It features a collection of objects typical of the country: musical instruments, weapons, a large Bedouin goat-hair tent with two compartments (men on one side, women on the other), teapots, carpets, weaving looms, beautiful gold and coral jewelry from the Red Sea... Don't miss the black-and-white photos of Amman at the entrance to the museum.

The Museum of Popular Traditions. Located on the right as you enter the theater, it's not very different from the Folklore Museum. The small museum displays Bedouin objects (traditional dress, jewelry, etc.), marquetry, evidence of the rich local crafts (carpets, saddles, etc.) and traditional Palestinian dress. The collection is completed by Byzantine mosaics and pottery from excavations in Madaba and Jerash.

The Odeon. Far less impressive than the Roman theater, it's still worth a stop. Built in the ^2nd century, it was mainly used for musical performances and political meetings, for up to 600 people.