FORTRESS OF MACHERONTHA

The fortress of Macheronte was built under the orders of Alexander Jannaeus, Hasmonean king of Judea, around 100 BC, on a conical hill 700 meters above sea level. The vantage point was ideal for spotting possible threats from the east, and the rugged terrain made attacks difficult. This did not prevent general Gabinius, working on behalf of the Roman emperor Pompey, from destroying the citadel. It was rebuilt by Herod the Great around 30 A.D., who added a sumptuous palace within its walls. According to the Jewish historian Flavius Josephus, it was here that St. John the Baptist was taken after his arrest. He remained locked up in the fortress for two years, before being beheaded at Salome's request. John the Baptist had denounced the marriage of King Herod Antipas to his sister-in-law Herodias. According to Jewish law, a man cannot marry his brother's wife while the latter is still alive. Herod Antipas was captivated by the dancing talents of his daughter-in-law Salome (the famous dancer of the 7 veils), and promised to fulfill his most cherished wishes, provided she did the deed for him. Urged on by her revenge-hungry mother, she asked for John the Baptist's head.

During the Jewish Revolt (c. 66-70), whole waves of rebels fleeing the sacking of Jerusalem by the Romans took refuge in Macheronte. According to Pliny the Elder, the fortress was totally impregnable. In 72, however, it fell victim to a siege and was razed to the ground by the Romans, who left only the foundations.

Today, there's nothing impressive about the ruins themselves: a few walls, traces of the foundations and the remains of an ancient bathhouse can barely be seen to the east of the site. It was here that Jordan's oldest mosaic was found, now on display at the Madaba Museum. On the other hand, the site, the shape of the hill topped by the remains of the fortress are well worth a visit, as are the views and the atmosphere, as the place is inhabited by shepherds walking their flocks of goats and sheep. Access is via a path winding along the hillside. Take the 10-15 minute walk to the top, and you'll be rewarded with a superb panorama of the Dead Sea, stretching all the way to Jerusalem on a clear day. Along the way and in the surrounding area, you'll no doubt notice a number of caves: according to legend, it was in one of them that John the Baptist was beheaded, and his head carried to Salome on a platter.