THE FORTRESS OF KERAK

The citadel of Kerak, which can be seen majestically from the north along the Kings' Road, extends over some 220 metres and varies in width from 125 metres on the side facing the town to 40 metres. Work began in 1140 and was completed two years later. The fortress was commissioned by Payen le Bouteiller, appointed lord of Outre-Jourdain in 1132 by King Foulque of Jerusalem. The castle was intended to form part of a strategic defensive line to secure the eastern front of Christian territory, between Aqaba and Turkey. Built on two levels, the fortress has a large number of vaulted rooms and passages that form a veritable labyrinth. Take a torch with you if you want to explore the darker parts. The northern front of the castle, facing the city, consists of a huge shield wall, built by the Crusaders from dark brown stones that were barely roughed in. Later, the Muslims replaced these stones with limestone slabs in some parts of the fortress, giving the building a more pleasing aesthetic. You will see, during your visit, that it is easy to tell the difference between the two.

The entrance to the castle is through the Ottoman gate. During the Crusader era, the entrance was through the postern to the left of the wall, opposite the present entrance. This gate was protected by a 30-metre deep moat and connected to the city by a wooden bridge that was easy to burn in case of an attack.

After the ticket office, take the path on the left that leads to two levels of vaulted galleries dating back to the Crusader era. The lower level was originally used as stables and leads to the Crusader Gate. This narrow gate was built in such a way that defenders wishing to return to its walls would expose their left side, and thus their shield, to the enemy. At the end of the gallery, a carved stone representing a bust recalls the occupation of the site by the Nabataeans in the 2nd century, well before the construction of the fort. The inhabitants of Kerak will tell you that it is a representation of Saladin. By a small staircase, you reach the north tower, now in ruins.

From the Nabatean statue, a passageway leads southward past the barracks on your left and the kitchens on your right. From here, a doorway leads to a large oven. Continue through the passage until you reach the outside, on the eastern front of the castle. This houses several towers reflecting the expansion work carried out after the Frankish period. Below is the huge Frankish glacis, which plunges down the hillside... It is from here, it seems, that Renaud de Châtillon threw his prisoners into the void.

Going up to the upper courtyard, you can see the remains of a cistern and residential buildings. From the terrace at the northern end of the castle (above the Crusaders' Gallery), the view over the valley is uninterrupted. Dominating the courtyard, the ruins of a Romanesque church are easily visible. It was large enough to accommodate the entire garrison, and services were certainly held there. Next to it is the sacristy, which can be reached by climbing down the steps.

The southern part of the site retains its Mamluk keep, built by Sultan Baybars in 1264, and rebuilt since then. It defends the most exposed part of the fortress, the slope facing the Umm al-Thallaja hill, which slightly overhangs the castle, providing an ideal artillery position.

A ditch was dug by the Crusaders at the foot of the fortress to make any attack more difficult. It is now filled in by a road. One can also see a large reservoir that collects rainwater and supplies the fort with drinking water.

The Mamluk palace is accessed by a staircase leading from the cistern. In the centre, two vaulted rooms were used as reception halls. A room to the east of the hall, accessible from the courtyard, appears to have served as a mosque: a niche is located in the southern wall, facing Mecca. To the south of the Crusader church, you can also access two corridors: the one on the left leads past seven cells, while in the one on the right you can see a rosette carved in stone at the foot of the steps. Finally, a third passageway leads north to the old market place. If you continue north, you will reach the exit.

The lower courtyard was originally built by the Crusaders before being developed by the Mamluks in the 13th century. This is where the recently renovated archaeological museum is located. It is worth stopping there for a moment. It houses some major prehistoric remains, ceramics dating back to the Nabatean period, some coins from the Mamluk period, as well as a copy of the famous Mesha stele dating back to 850 BC. What remains of the original stele is on display in the Louvre Museum in Paris.

The western wall is pierced by the monumental Mamluk entrance - now condemned - whose arch rises to a height of nearly 12 meters. From the top of the ramparts, the view of the Wadi Karak is magnificent. The lower courtyard covers two large underground galleries, which were connected to the Mamluk gate and provided an escape route in case of attack.