Sultanahmet and the Historic City
The historic peninsula comprises the old quarters of Byzantium and Constantinople: a triangle bounded on the west by the walls of Theodosius, on the north by the Golden Horn, on the east and on the south by the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara (Seraglio Point). Within this perimeter are most of the city's monuments: Sultanahmet (the Blue Mosque, by extension, the name refers to the entire historical area), Sirkeci (Topkapı Palace), Beyazıt (Grand Bazaar), Eminönü (Egyptian Bazaar and pier on the Bosphorus at the foot of the Galata Bridge), Kumkapı (taverns) in which it is easy, and even advisable, to move around by foot. The tramway serves this whole area.
The Golden Horn
Separating the historic peninsula from the other side where the districts of Galata and Beyoğlu (Pera) are located, the Golden Horn is one of the richest parts of the city from historical, geographical and cultural points of view. Located at the southern end of the Bosphorus, it extends westward in the shape of a horn, the first inhabitants called it Chrysokeras, meaning precisely "golden horn" in Greek. Now one of Istanbul's major tourist attractions, the Golden Horn was formed several millennia ago when the alluvial areas of two small rivers, the Alibey (Kydaros) and the Kağıthane (Barbyzes), were carved out and enlarged by sea water from the Bosphorus. It was on the banks of this same Golden Horn and in the valleys of the two small rivers or on the surrounding hills that the first sites of human habitation in the region probably appeared. The Golden Horn was later transformed into a natural extension of the Bosphorus and offered the advantage of a natural harbour to its occupants. The residents who settled here benefited from the produce of the surrounding fertile land, fishing opportunities and safe maritime trade, sheltered by an exceptional natural harbour. The present-day neighbourhoods still bear evidence of the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. A large part of the city's Greek population, Jews from Spain, Turks and Armenians chose to live here, passing on their own culture in the melting pot that was the Golden Horn. The remains of the Byzantine period in this area are of great importance in the history of the city. Still visible are Byzantine walls, cellars, gates and palaces; kiosks, pavilions, hammams and former Ottoman refectories; historic dwellings that housed people from all nations; and places of worship of the three great monotheistic religions. Further west are the popular and authentic districts of Balat and Fener (Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora and the Orthodox Patriarchate), which stretch along the Golden Horn, Samatya (fish market), on the edge of the Sea of Marmara, and in between the traditionalist district of Fatih (Mosque of Mehmed the Conqueror) Beyond the walls of the old city, the Eyüp district is worth a visit for the view offered from the Pierre-Loti café and its sacred religious complex. From an administrative point of view, Eminönü designates the municipality which groups together all the districts of the tip of the peninsula, whereas the municipality of Fatih includes the districts of Balat, Fener and Samatya.
Modern city
The municipality of Beyoğlu - meaning the "modern city" as opposed to the historic city - stretches across the Galata Bridge. Yet it is from Taksim Square onwards that the notion of modernity takes on its full meaning, with the many towers of the residential areas of little interest. On the other hand, from the Golden Horn and the Karaköy pier to Taksim, the historical vestiges are very present: Galata (former Péra) with its famous Genoese tower and its antique shops, Tünel with its old tramway, its passages full of bars and restaurants and the Istiklal Caddesi which goes up to Taksim. This pedestrian street, with its rather heterogeneous architecture and nostalgic tramway, is surrounded by shops and restaurants. Yet since the Gezi events of 2013 and the failed coup of 2016, Taksim has changed. The nightclubs have gradually closed, and there is no longer the excitement of the past. Affordable bars and cafes have given way to places geared towards the wealthy Middle Eastern clientele. There are still a few independent cinemas and the Museum of Modern Art has taken up residence there temporarily. The districts of Cihangir and Karaköy are the new trendy places. Below, on the Bosphorus side, the Tophane district is very popular for its narghile cafés. On the other hand, avoid getting lost in the alleys going down to the west (beyond Refik-Saydam Avenue) towards the Golden Horn, as they look quite spooky, especially at nightfall.
The Bosphorus: Beşiktaş and the Asian shore
The municipality of Beşiktaş, with its 23 quarters, extends from Dolmabahçe Palace to Bebek village. Originally, Beşiktaş was a small Russian fishing village that grew with Armenian, Greek and Muslim quarters. In the 19th century, several sultans chose this wind-sheltered location at the foot of Pera Hill to build lavish palaces (Dolmabahçe, Çırağan, Yıldız), whose huge parks completely surround the village. From the 1940s onwards, new districts developed further inland. These are today the districts of Bebek, with its chic and trendy addresses, and that of Levent with its tall towers and huge shopping centers. For the tourist, only one district to be retained: Ortaköy! Very pleasant with its mosque at the water's edge, very animated with its second-hand goods dealers, second-hand booksellers and musical cafés: the young Stamboulians are crazy about it! The Asian side of the city has always been less attractive to tourists. However, it would be a shame to turn away from the markets and the constant bustle of Kadıköy. Indeed, in the last five years, it has become the trendy district of the city. If you come for a walk on the weekend, you will be surprised by the very young population that animates it. And it will offer you a more "authentic" view of Istanbul life. While Kadıköy (formerly Chalcedon) has a well-to-do and cosmopolitan population, this is not the case with Üsküdar, which is a religious and conservative neighborhood where you can see some interesting mosques. To the north of Üsküdar lie the typical small villages of the Bosphorus which are very pleasant to visit (Kuzguncuk, Cengelköy, Kanlıca...) and, further away, the even more picturesque ones of the Beykoz municipality.
