AMBOHIMANGA ROVA

Of the fourteen doors of entry in reality 7 old and 7 new erected by Andrianampoinimerina, only one remains, pink ochre on a side, vermilion of the other, earth of Sienna in the center. 16 million egg whites were necessary to build the external wall: they were used like lime!

The royal hut of Andrianampoinimerina (Mahandrihono) resembles that of his residence in Antananarivo. One will notice the steps on the three rosewood pillars: the king used to hide at the top when visitors entered his house; he let his wife talk to them, in order to better judge them, then threw a stone if he agreed to receive them himself. Then the royal wife would let the guests out and the king could quietly go back downstairs! Another important precision: the gracious sovereign was only 1,45 m tall!

The house of Ranavalona III is charming with its lacquered balusters and its balconies. Ask the guide to open the drawers of the furniture of the queen's room and to translate the inscriptions. He will tell you: "Ranavalona, give me a job! Ranavalona, give me a beautiful husband! Ranavalona, give me a long life! Ranavalona, give me fortune! Ranavalona, give me a bride! Ranavalona, give me a child..." These wishes are addressed to the spirit of the queen who can help the living.

Next to the queen's room, a belvedere, surrounded by bay windows, overlooks the panorama. This is the Council of Ministers room. The government met there around Ranavalona.

The life of the city was wisely organized. All the social groups were represented there. Each clan, which had a limited and defined number of huts, was in charge of a district and had to maintain it; similarly, each clan had rice fields and had to produce a minimum quantity of rice. All the inhabitants participated in the cleaning of the city. The forest was preserved because it was a source of important wealth (especially for construction): it was forbidden to cut wood, and even to collect it. Alcohol was not allowed, hemp was forbidden, as well as fady products.

Walk around the rova enclosure, walk around the fortifications, find the stone of sacrifices(vatomasina), consecrated by king Andriantsimitoviaminandriandehibe (phew!).

Ambohimanga is a place of serenity. Numerous other archaeological vestiges are scattered on the hill: external royal tombs(Mahazaza), royal fountain, hill of Mangabe (where rests the tomb of the diviner/astrologer)...

The history here was eventful, as evidenced by the episode of the exhumation of the royal tombs by Gallieni, in March 1897. The general had decided to remove the symbols of Merina sovereignty, and thus to transfer the royal remains from Ambohimanga to Antananarivo, barely a month after having exiled Queen Ranavalona III. An inconceivable sacrilege. The bodies were transferred to the Palace of the Kings, where they joined that of Radama ^I, who was already resting there. Before a century later, on December 6, 1995, a new desecration (probably just as criminal) further sealed the strange fate of these sovereign relics.

There are a few fady in Ambohimanga: snails, pigs, onions, corn, squash... but also, as the tradition says... Europeans! Don't worry, you will be well received anyway.