Old town
Dubrovnik's historic center, encircled by ramparts, is rich in historic monuments, most of which were built between the 11th and 17th centuries and rebuilt after the 1667 earthquake. The Ragusa of yesteryear was home to some ten monasteries (two of which are still in perfect condition) and forty-two churches (most of which are still intact today). Today, Ragusa's inner city has a population of around 1,000, out of a total of 42,000. Almost entirely devoted to tourists, its alleyways are now home to little more than often insipid souvenir stores, at the expense of small food shops, craft stalls and master workshops. In the off-season, the old town slows down, not to say hibernates completely! Geographically speaking, the Stradun divides the old town in two: to the north, a tangle of alleyways and staircases; to the south, longer, wider streets.
Access to the old town is via three routes: two gates (Pile, Ploče) and a buža ("hole", which is not the bar of the same name), located for the latter in the heights of the city, beyond Prijeko. Dubrovnik has a number of museums not to be missed, including those housed in the Sponza Palace and the Rector's Palace, as well as the Marine Museum, the Revelin Architecture Museum and the War Photo Limited photo exhibitions. The city's remarkable churches and monasteries are a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of summer. Dubrovnik is criss-crossed by dozens of charming alleyways: let yourself be enchanted by a stroll with your nose in the air!
A cable car takes you up to Mount Srđ from Ploče, just outside the old town.
Gruž and Lapad
These two districts to the west of the old town embody Dubrovnik's modern city, linked to the Pile gate by a good bus system (a 20-minute journey). Dominated by the Tuđman bridge spanning the Dubrovačka rijeka river, Gruž revolves around its large international port, matched by an international bus station 300 m further on. A lively transit district with a food market, Gruž also boasts a number of pretty Ragusan villas sheltered by their delicate gardens. Following the earthquake of 1667, the Republic even considered moving its port activities to Gruž for a time, but the port in the old town was eventually reopened. Further on, on the other side of the bridge, is Komolac and its marina. A large part of Dubrovnik's population lives in the heights of Gruž and in Kantafig, Nuncijata and Mokošica, beyond Gruž.
Lapad is essentially a residential district, forming a peninsula that stretches from the south of Gruž to Boninovo. Alleys are non-existent here, and the car is king! Lapad Bay and the upper part of the peninsula - known as Babin Kuk - are home to the city's major hotels and beaches. The old Yugoslav beach resorts of the 1970s have given way to more recent all-inclusive hotel-spa-holiday clubs. As in Gruž, several large families from Ragusa have set up their summer quarters in Lapad, notably on the Lapadska obala side.
Both areas were hit by enemy bombing in 1991, and have rebuilt thanks to tourism, but not only. Gruž and Lapad are alive with neighborhood life, which brings a smile to your face after strolling through the small museum that is the Old Town.
Apart from a few historic churches and the Museum of Yugoslav History in Gruž, there's not much to visit in these two recently expanded residential districts. On the other hand, there are a few walks to be had, notably along Lapadska Obala and Gruž (towards the port), lined with beautiful patrician villas dating back to Ragusa's golden age. Unfortunately, none of them are open to visitors. But you can stay in some of them, which have been converted into hotels or guesthouses. In the north of Lapad, at Babin Kuk, locusts and cypresses are king. This part of the peninsula is green and seaside. Luxury hotels have set up their own beaches here, which are freely accessible.
The bay of Lapad is rather lively, and the Šetalište kralja Zvonimira (promenade leading to a sandy beach) is pleasant and entirely pedestrianized. The Šetalište Nika i Meda Pucića, which runs eastwards from the beach, also has a number of pretty little coves where you can enjoy a refreshing swim.
Boninovo, Pile and Ploče
These three districts, located on either side of, if not next to, the old town's two main gates, were once suburbs and now seem almost one with the old town. On the west side, at the foot of the eponymous gate, stretch the alleys of Pile: some climb up into the residential heights (like Uz Posat), while others descend towards the sea and Fort Lovrijenac (Od Tabakarije). Boninovo is an even more rugged extension. The green, cliff-lined coastline of this third district is sure to impress. It boasts several beaches (both concrete and rocky) that are popular with locals, notably Danče and Šulic. There are also some pretty old churches, such as the one in Danče.
Ploče, on the eastern side, in the shadow of Mount Srđ, is an affluent neighborhood in the heights, reserving beautiful views of the island of Lokrum. It extends as far as the first seaside resorts of the Župa dubrovačka, in the direction of Cavtat.
These three districts are ideal for strolling, and also boast a wealth of narrow streets and historic buildings, including two forts outside the old town and the Museum of Modern Art. This is also where you'll find a number of beaches, those of Banje (Ploče), Šulić and Danče (Pile). Don't miss the chance to climb to the top of the narrow streets (great views guaranteed) and take the ulica Rudimira Rotera in Boninovo, leading down to the sea. Another walk is from Pile to Fort Saint-Laurent (Lovrijenac). From Ploče, a funicular leads to Mount Srđ.
