CAP TÉNARE

This cape (Ακρωτήριο Ταίναρο/Akrotirio Tainaro) is the southernmost point of mainland Greece. Also known as Cape Matapan, it drops slightly lower than Cape Malea on the neighboring Epidaurus-Limira peninsula to the east. It is also further south than Sicily, Tunis and Algiers. However, it is only the second most southerly point in continental Europe: 50 km further north than Tarifa, Spain. Because of its location, Cape Ténare was considered by the ancients to be the entrance to the realm of the dead. It was also home to Tainaron, a Spartan colony renowned for its mercenary market and green marble with red and black veins. The road from Porto Kagio crosses arid landscapes. It stops at Kokkinogia, the last hamlet on the Magne with 9 permanent inhabitants. Here you'll find horses in semi-freedom, a tavern, a rudimentary guesthouse and the parking lot overlooking the small beach of Porto Sternes, an ancient port.

Gateway to the Underworld and oracle of the dead. On Porto Sternes beach: a shallow cave. It is known as the "Gate of Hades". It was considered the entrance to the domain of the god of the Underworld and the Underworld. In mythology, it was here that Heracles entered to capture Cerberus. And above, the Tainaron archaeological site begins (free access). The first remains are those of the sanctuary of Poseidon's oracle of the dead (^4th-3rd century B.C.), where ceremonies for the dead and the emancipation of slaves took place. The temple was converted into a chapel during the Byzantine period. But under an archway, visitors continue to make small offerings (more or less sincere) to appease the wrath of Poseidon Asphalios: "the Unshakable", the one who protects against earthquakes. From the parking lot, follow the path southwards. After 250 m, a beautiful circular mosaic with wave motifs awaits you. Dating from the ^1st century AD, it adorned the floor of a Roman thermal bath. It is nicknamed the "Star of Aria" in reference to a nymph (and lover of Apollo) associated with the cult of "invisible waters".

Aria beach and French lighthouse. Although there were baths here, Cap Ténare has no springs. To meet their water needs, the inhabitants of Tainaron/Taenarum created many small cisterns to collect rainwater, including those dug into the rock around the mosaic. A swim on the nearby beach of Aria is a good idea in summer: it's a 1.7 km walk to the southern tip of the Balkans. Bring good shoes, water and sun cream. The wind blows, the sun beats down, but you won't get lost. The peninsula becomes narrower and narrower. And it ends with a 16 m high lighthouse perched on the rocks, 25 m above the roaring waves. Designed by French engineers, it was completed in 1887. The site is awe-inspiring: the immensity of the waves, views of Kythera, Cape Malée and the boats cruising offshore. But Cape Ténare has also witnessed many tragedies. In 1717, the first Battle of Matapan resulted in the loss of hundreds of sailors from the Venetian and Ottoman fleets. And in 1941, the second battle of Matapan, won by the Royal Navy, was Italy's greatest naval defeat, with the death of 2,300 sailors and the sinking of five large ships.