BOUGATSA BANTIS

Many Thesalonian patisseries perpetuate the tradition of bougatsa, a local specialty inherited from the Byzantines: a phyllo pastry tart filled with sweet semolina cream. But here, a little way from the center of town, Philippos Bantis is the last to prepare his light, crisp phyllo dough by hand. He also makes savoury versions of bougatsa with mizithra (fresh goat's cheese) or minced meat. If you're too lazy to come all the way out here, Serraikon's bougatsa (near Modiano market) is pretty good too.